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#29 |
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The BBOMG fill-in husband
Drives: 2015 2SS/RS 1LE AKA V1LE Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Elmira, NY
Posts: 4,475
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UPSTATE C5 MEMBER
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#30 | |
![]() Drives: Lamborghini Diablo & SuperLeggera Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Orange County
Posts: 24
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Once you've cleaned the car (get all contaminants out of the clear coat), then compound and polish all the RDS, marring and swirls out, you can use sealants or waxes to protect the paint. Zaino is an example of this. For cars that have a (relatively) low value, don't see much driving time, or you don't want to put a lot of money in, this is the best way to go. The next step up from that is a coating. There are a few available, both for prosumers and professionals (the latter require "baking" the coating), which create a silica-based layer on top of the clear coat. Once you have a coating, you can do sealants or waxes on top of it, if you want, for extra protection, and easier maintenance. The "best" thing is a PPF wrap (Paint Protection Film), or clear bra as it's often called, which creates a thick (8 mils) layer on top of the clear coat. This is so strong that most rock chips and even attempts at keying a car will not go all the way through. Over time, there may be a need to replace the film on a single panel, but your paint will remain in perfect ORIGINAL condition underneath. To protect the film itself from the elements (water drops, tree sap, road tar, etc), the usual regimen of sealants, waxes and coatings is available. Maintenance will be a breeze with those on top, as well as having the best possible protection. Hope that clarifies how they relate to each other. That said, great shots of your Z ! |
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#31 |
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Thank you for sharing the photos! Beautiful Z!
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2017 ZL1 A10 PDR NAV
2007 Lamborghini LP640 2010 Tundra Pre Runner 2012 Ford F450 Super Duty Prior cars: 2015 Z/28 Redline Motorsports SC725 (see profile for build details, Redline Motorsports youtube, Super Chevy article, etc) 2010 SS Supercharged with other mods...(two of this model) 2003 Lamborghini Murcielago (two of this model) 1998 Lamborghini Diablo SV 2004 Lamborghini Gallardo Ferrari 348 Spider Saleen Mustang |
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#32 | |
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Lets roll...
Drives: 14' Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: TX/S.FL
Posts: 1,495
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Any more pics OP?
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#33 |
![]() Drives: 15 Z28, 17 GT350R Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Frisco, TX
Posts: 212
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#34 |
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CamaroFans.com
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.... and Zaino is a polish not a wax
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#35 |
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Raging Bull Reborn
Drives: '09 CGM Z063LZ '15 RH Z/28 #0631 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Broken Arrow OK
Posts: 765
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No wax or glass coating known to man will survive a 125 mph pebble strike like 8.5 mil Expel Ultimate will...IMHO>
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![]() Toy 1 '15 RH Z/28 w/AC & Radio S/N 0631 Toy 2 '09 CGM Z06 3LZ My DD: '17 Ford Mustang GT Her DD: '14 F150 Ecoboost 3.5 |
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#36 |
![]() Drives: 15 Z28, 17 GT350R Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Frisco, TX
Posts: 212
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either way, just doing a wax or polish or combo is old school tech. Best is to get a legit paint correction and seal this perfected paint with a full-car lear bra, the glass coat the film
Last edited by z28monster; 08-25-2016 at 08:17 PM. |
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#37 |
![]() Drives: 15 Z28, 17 GT350R Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Frisco, TX
Posts: 212
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exactly, paint correction first though - it's worth the extra investment - at least for me it is as I will never, ever have to deal with marring/scratching again on a black car
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#38 |
![]() Drives: 2015 Camaro Z28 Join Date: May 2016
Location: Arlington,TX
Posts: 130
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My white Z28 had lots of rail dust on the finish because the selling dealership is near a train track. Rail dust particles (tiny bits of iron) are generated by contact between train wheels and train tracks. It gets into the air and floats until it lands. I am loath to wet sand a production car because factory paint is thin. Because of my concern about the thinness of factory paint, I used five clay bar applications to get rid of the black specs of rail dust. If rail dust sits on a car's finish for any length of time, it begins to oxidize. This oxidation (rust) is evidenced by the tiny orange stains that can be seen as rail dust is removed. In some cases, I used compound to get rid of the the small bits of oxidation under the rail dust particles, but did not need to sand. I now have five coats of Zaino on the Z car and the finish is very slick and glossy because the rail dust is gone. Zaino takes considerable work, at least for me, it's certainly worth it.
Last edited by Mac-427; 08-25-2016 at 08:30 AM. |
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#39 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: Ferrari F430 Spider F1 Azzurro Arge Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Irvine
Posts: 858
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#40 |
![]() Drives: 2015 Camaro Z28 Join Date: May 2016
Location: Arlington,TX
Posts: 130
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Now that is a good question! LOL
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#41 | ||
![]() Drives: Lamborghini Diablo & SuperLeggera Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Orange County
Posts: 24
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Quote:
Quote:
So wash first, then decon with Claybar and IronX, then compound and polish the car to perfection, then protect the flawless paint
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#42 |
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Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
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![]() Wow OP the Z looks awesome!! Great combo with the paint correction and the clear bar all around. That will keep it looking good for awhile! Best regards, Kayla L. 801.545.4215 |
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