Torx Bolts in Rotor

[joeyofblades]

Hey all. Just did a friends brakes on his Honda pilot. Or, at least, I tried to. But the screws that hold the rotors in were stuck. I hammered away like Eric the Car Guy suggested, but they wouldn't come out. I used 10 different screwdrivers. I used WD-40. Last resort. I tried to drill the screws out but the drill just wasn't strong enough and we didn't want to buy a new one just for this brake job. So, i left without my payment and my buddy went to the mechanic to get his brakes done.

I remembered our 5th gens have these in the front, but its Torx instead of Phillips. Slightly better. But I would really like to not be prevented from doing my brakes in the future because of a seized rotor screw. Initially I thought, let's douse it in anti-seize. But upon googling, these rotor screws do nothing but hold the rotor to the hub. Which is what the lug nuts do anyway. So the consensus online is they're useless and can be left off completely.

What do you guys think of this? What have you guys done?

[Wacko37]

get an impact driver! I bought one solely because of brake jobs.

[Stormcloak]

I've had scenarios where I had to drill those screws out in Honda vehicles (and I've actually shattered the bit in an impact driver also trying to remove one, which was interesting. Considering the heating and oxidation that can happen over the long term, they're generally a terrible design.

I've not tried to run without them installed, but I'm sure it can be done. Some vehicles don't have any at all.

[Synner]

It's used to aid in assembly line processes to keep the rotor in place. There is no need for the screw post-assembly line. Although if you keep antiseize on it you'll never have an issue. I do brake jobs way too often from track days so I actually like that it keeps the rotor in place and centered in the caliper when messing with pad swaps.

[cdb95z28]

You know those air in a can dusters used for electronics? When you turn them upside down the air comes out super chilled. Aim that super cold air right at the bolt, longer the better. The super cold will shrink the bolt and sometimes they will break free. I have done this before and it works. Just do not aim the air at your skin, because you will get frostbite.

[joeyofblades]

Never heard of the freeze method before... I'll probably pick up an impact driver eventually. Just need this down payment for a house first lol. I'm just really scared of stripping it too, though. I guess I should just be careful not to over-tighten it, I've had bad experiences with Torx stripping... cough 4th gen f bodies...

Originally Posted by Synner

I actually like that it keeps the rotor in place and centered in the caliper when messing with pad swaps.

That is a good point, but I'm never in a situation where I swap pads without rotors, so I don't think I get any benefit to them period. I can also use my legs to hold the rotor while I'm re-attaching the caliper or just have someone hold it for me. As I said, I'm just the kind of guy that views this convenience measure as one more part that can strip or seize and leave my car on jack stands while I'm in panic mode trying to figure out what to do.

[Inferno LT]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

You know those air in a can dusters used for electronics? When you turn them upside down the air comes out super chilled. Aim that super cold air right at the bolt, longer the better. The super cold will shrink the bolt and sometimes they will break free. I have done this before and it works. Just do not aim the air at your skin, because you will get frostbite.

That's a great idea. I've seen that method used for a multitude of close tolerance part assembly. You can install wheel bearings without a press the same way. Just heat up the hub a little and pop the bearing in the freezer for a while and they go together with almost no effort.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Inferno LT

That's a great idea. I've seen that method used for a multitude of close tolerance part assembly. You can install wheel bearings without a press the same way. Just heat up the hub a little and pop the bearing in the freezer for a while and they go together with almost no effort.

I've done that kind of thing too. I wrench at a power plant Some stuff has a very tight fit, bearing on the heater, shaft getting the freeze

[JOHNSONROD]

take em out with this. the best screw extractors ive ever used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

put new screws in and use this on em . . .
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-SL35913-A...rds=anti+seize

i tried not using them at all but its a mess trying to assemble without that little screw in there. they come right out with the anti seize on there.

[Lil' Nasty]

Originally Posted by Synner

It's used to aid in assembly line processes to keep the rotor in place. There is no need for the screw post-assembly line. Although if you keep antiseize on it you'll never have an issue. I do brake jobs way too often from track days so I actually like that it keeps the rotor in place and centered in the caliper when messing with pad swaps.

This. Just did a brake job on my Acura (honda) and the two screws (each rotor!) were a PITFA...I used the lug nut to hold the rotor in place and it worked out fine.

I used a craftsman extractor and once it caught...screws came out.