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Old 12-13-2016, 07:23 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yay240 View Post
Planning to pull the engine and rip it apart soon; was planning to remove oil pan and inspect from underneath. I'll pull the valve covers off and inspect in their also. I'll report back with my findings....
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Old 12-13-2016, 07:47 AM   #16
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hydro-lock...looks like fuel leaked into cylinder...also with the mods you list first startup should have been long enough to get motor to operating temp...springs, cam lifters needs a good heat set for long life...seriously blows tho...scoggin dicky has a thread with a LS3 short block...looks nice...Merry Christmas!....peace out...
I have a feeling this may be the cause. I'm not 100% positive on this.. Does anyone know how I can test to see if an injector is stuck staying open? Any way at all the harness I have from speartech messed up in some way?

Either way I'll be pulling the oil pan and everything off later this week. I will post photos and update the thread.

Thank you everyone that has offered their suggestion in any way!
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:26 AM   #17
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good plan....I have(in the past..lol) what if's shit to death....get that sucker torn down and let's go from there...

as for testing the injectors I will allow someone else answer...not 100% sure..you said speartech..have you contacted them? usually vendors are very helpful...
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Old 12-13-2016, 05:59 PM   #18
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Could have had a spun bearing and takes itself out from the con rod as that would be most suspicious, but you have to tear it down to try to diagnose and see the shape of the heads. I would be wondering if any of the short block is ok or turning the crank needed and different bearings to make the stock crank worth using again so a I would short block , well you can find new online and crate engines complete for about 7 grand intake to pulleys.... gmpp ported heads like 1300 stock....ebay short blocks are out there too

Good luck let us know what you find.
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Old 12-13-2016, 06:45 PM   #19
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Or cam was installed way off, like 180 out and pistons met valves, which made piston meet block.
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Old 01-21-2017, 11:13 PM   #20
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Bumping my old thread back up.

Anyone think this head is salvageable?



Hello cylinder 4!
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Old 01-22-2017, 03:42 AM   #21
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Doesn't look too bad........polish the sharp points so they won't be detonation prone. But in all honesty, a new head is only like $400 give or take.
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:25 AM   #22
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Head looks ok to clean up a little, new heads are 600+ each or $700 ported stock gmpp via like summit, the real deal is the new shortblock, a bare block can be 1300$ plus

I would talk to Jerry at custom engine supply/SAG performance the guys who do up so many ebay engines... Good Luck.
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:36 AM   #23
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I would take a look at all the injectors and make sure one is not stuck open or leaking.
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:16 AM   #24
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Heads are way to cheap to consider reusing that or putting time/money into fixing it.
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Old 01-22-2017, 04:35 PM   #25
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+1 on new head bro....or a gently used one.....
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Old 01-22-2017, 11:24 PM   #26
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+2 - don't cheap out... get new heads.. they aren't that expensive... you don't want something to happen again...
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Old 06-28-2017, 01:54 AM   #27
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Bringing the thread back from the dead!

I tore the motor all the way down a while ago. I dropped the crank off at the machine shop and they said its perfectly fine.

#2 piston blew into a million pieces and #4 piston once it was removed has cracks (see pic).

All bearings were free of any marks showed no signs of any wear or damage.

Currently, have the heads repaired and installed on my forged ls3.



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Old 06-28-2017, 12:07 PM   #28
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Over rev piston damage. Those pistons will probably live forever at 6800, above 7K, they'll try to rip the pin out the bottom. LS7 lightweight pistons live better at 7K. Peeps that think all you need to rev high is stiff valve springs, there is the result. Under magnification, they are all probably micro-cracked.
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