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Old 03-17-2017, 08:28 PM   #29
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I've got 275 Indy 500's on my front wheels. I love em. Before I switched to the Nitto NT05 on my rears, I was wearing the Indy 500's on my rears also.

The 315 NT05's were nice tires... but they sucked in weather, and wore out fairly quick.

I got some Nitto NT555 G2's on my rears now and I absolutely love em! These tires are outstanding, with plenty of tread and they look wider than the NT05's. I highly recommend them.
X2... I have em in all 4 corners and like them much better than the stock Pzeros... Never had em on the track though...
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:26 PM   #30
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I've got 275 Indy 500's on my front wheels. I love em. Before I switched to the Nitto NT05 on my rears, I was wearing the Indy 500's on my rears also.

The 315 NT05's were nice tires... but they sucked in weather, and wore out fairly quick.

I got some Nitto NT555 G2's on my rears now and I absolutely love em! These tires are outstanding, with plenty of tread and they look wider than the NT05's. I highly recommend them.
Great . That is a tire I am definitely looking at. How does it hook from a standing start takeoff?
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:30 PM   #31
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Just you know the 2 guys on your other thread your taking advice from on the Nitto 555r tires know their stuff. Always take advice from members that know.....not those with just an opinion.
Well aware that John and Bo are highly knowledgeable. Thank you sir. But even experts can miss a trick or a new product. Definitely listening to their advice though.
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Old 03-17-2017, 10:22 PM   #32
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Great . That is a tire I am definitely looking at. How does it hook from a standing start takeoff?
Let me just say that you will not be disappointed. The look really good too.
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Old 03-17-2017, 10:28 PM   #33
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Let me just say that you will not be disappointed. The look really good too.
Don't you need 11" wheels for those?
That's a big step if on a budget.
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Old 03-17-2017, 10:34 PM   #34
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Don't you need 11" wheels for those?
That's a big step if on a budget.
You're good with a 10.5in wheel for 315's. But the NT555 G2's come in 275/35r20, and they're only about 200 each.
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Old 03-17-2017, 10:39 PM   #35
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I just ordered a set of 305 Mickey Thompson ET Street SS. If I didn't want a drag radial, then I would have gotten the Mickey Thompson Street Comp
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Old 03-17-2017, 10:50 PM   #36
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You're good with a 10.5in wheel for 315's. But the NT555 G2's come in 275/35r20, and they're only about 200 each.
If I get them it will be 295/40/20.
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Old 03-17-2017, 11:27 PM   #37
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If I get them it will be 295/40/20.
Whats nice about that size is that you get a little more sidewall that fill the wheel well nicely. They really make the ride a bit nicer.
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Old 03-18-2017, 12:05 AM   #38
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If I get them it will be 295/40/20.
Don't do that. The larger diameter will reduce your gear ratio.
Unless you are going for top speed.

A lot of people think rotational mass = rotational mass. But they fail to realize the farther from the center of rotation the mass is, the more energy it takes to rotate that mass and the slower it is to respond. Acceleration or braking.

You want the 315/35 to match the OEM diameter. It's still more mass than the 275/40 but at least it is as close to the center as the OEMs.
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Old 03-18-2017, 12:06 AM   #39
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I had these on my 02 Z28. They were inexpensive and performed very well. I had them in 315's


They are Vredestein Sessanta. FWIW, I Ioved the tread design also.
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:40 AM   #40
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Can you launch from a dead stop good with them? I do a lot of spinning in first gear now.
They'll spin if I go full clutch dump but do you mean like rolling into WOT once in gear in the street? If so then yes they hook just fine from a roll in first gear
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Old 03-18-2017, 08:13 AM   #41
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There's always the P ZERO TROFEO R. Designed for the z28.
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Old 03-18-2017, 08:45 AM   #42
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You have done most likely what to the suspension? NADA, you need better trailing arms and toes at least to limit the wheel hop, you have a l99 with not so much for low end torque believe me....so you think the weaker than fe4 suspension helps on a vert? I used to have a 11 vert l99 it was weaker by far on launch than a stock manual. I think you should look to the suspension.
'I load my suspension just slightly by not just hammering it and letting the first 1/2 second go ahead and be a transition or I would always burn out, I can do rolling burnouts banging gears hard and get fishy and I always drive with traction control and stabillitrac.
Now you may or may not be tuned? and then if turned well the torque management will not rob power killing your desire to burn rubber, but still at your power level even with spray down the road your not going to be using it 24/7 like I have with a stick and 400+ ft lbs at idle to the rear.

Driving a automatic your not most likely having a real problem other than wheel hop if you manage to get traction to loosen with a automatic as planting the tires the rear trailing and toes are stamped cheap and with rubber bushings just a problem waiting to happen.

No trans braking , no higher than normal torque converter /aftermarket more expensive trans yours tune may help with getting power to the ground but your not so high at your mods a better exhaust and CAI to really worry about tires like everything has to be a drag race.
My advice look to the suspension, I run Toyo proxes 4+ with about a 50k life supposedly compared to crap wear rating of 220 of the stock P zero a rating of over 500 and better rain handling here where I daily drive in rain all the time would be my advice.
A couple BMR pieces from Phastek and you may just find you never had a problem, yes no matter what if you have a rear wheel drive the engine torques down and the car squats on the right rear first, people tune struts and whole suspension systems to counter this, or you can learn to drive just a little bit differently to not just intentionally try to burn rubber. Sure a Vert does have softer than FE-4 , it used to be softer than FE-3, it a little more reinforced because of its body flex and it needs it with a strut tower brace and such but hey even the zl1 and 1le suspensions are easily improved apon with aftermarket parts.
BTW I never floor it from a stop I may break a axle like a kid and a tootsie pop, you want to torture your rear you may want to get used to shopping for some suspension upgrades. Good Luck..... the wheel was invented long ago, Proxes 4 + have about exactly the same speed and grip rating as the stock p-zero also BTW and are a all season performance radial as some of us have to daily drive.
And with 5 cats and 5 dogs and one that loves to sit on top my car the vert. had to go as I knew building it would cost more, I did treat the top repeatedly with Sunbrella to make it water proof, but cleaning up white car hair on a triple black car sucked. Now if your one of these yahoos who think its great to drive all the time with traction control off..I give up.
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