JRE 75 package with LT headers. Advice?

[STUNNAH]

Originally Posted by Dave2014-ZL1

I'm thinking of doing the JRE 75hp and removing cats. Not sure wether I'll do the tune or no tune. It is still warrantied. What's the difference besides having to use torco?

Do the tune, the car will perform so much better all around...You do not need to upgrade injectors with this kit...As a member or two have stated at this point headers want make that big of a difference, I would just pull the fuse to leave the NPP cutouts open...Good luck with your choice...

[ZL1-Camaro]

Originally Posted by Dave2014-ZL1

I'm thinking of doing the JRE 75hp and removing cats. Not sure wether I'll do the tune or no tune. It is still warrantied. What's the difference besides having to use torco?

I have been using a dashlogic and I monitor KR with a stock tune using Torco and a 10% pulley and I always had a little at high rpm. I am sure that cat delete will help with that, But as My cats slowly plugged I was noticing that My boost was getting higher and would cut off the engine at 11 bls, I was also using a Diablo tuner witch cut off the over boost protection and I was seeing 15 lbs but only running 12.4 1/4. The cats don't last with extra boost if you use it like I do.

[ZL1-Camaro]

Here is what You need. http://www.ebay.com/itm/162480587542...84.m1555.l2649

[Dave2014-ZL1]

Originally Posted by ZL1-Camaro

Here is what You need. http://www.ebay.com/itm/162480587542...84.m1555.l2649

What are mini cats?

[ZL1-Camaro]

They are made to trick the O2 sensors to make it think that cats are installed so no Check engine light. So you can get buy with out a tune then go back to stock if you have a warranty issue.

[Dave2014-ZL1]

Originally Posted by ZL1-Camaro

They are made to trick the O2 sensors to make it think that cats are installed so no Check engine light. So you can get buy with out a tune then go back to stock if you have a warranty issue.

So I shouldn't need any other parts for the process of eliminating the cats? I could just buy what you listed from eBay and the JRE 75hp package with or without tune and be good?

[ZL1 TIBS]

If you are not sure about the injectors, you should do a baseline dyno to see where your injectors are now. Mine were so close, my tuner discouraged me from even putting a CAI on mine without bigger injectors.

[Can'tHave2MuchHP]

Let's not let this thread get too confusing. Let's just back it up here.

Your options are a JRE 75 Kit with or without headers correct? I vote for headers for the sound and few extra ponies. And if you ever decide to do more then you'll need headers.

I don't recommend doing "Cat deletes" and all of these "mini cats" and stuff. That said running more than stock boost through stock cats will not last long. So if you can't afford headers than a JBL cat delete kit would be my recommendation but that's only if you can't get Headers which are a much better plan IMO. And pulling the NPP fuse does nothing for HP or extra flow, that is only changing what is on the last 12 inches of the exhaust. The backup starts at the lower flowing manifolds and stock cats. Pulling the NPP fuse is not a reason to get or not get cat deletes/headers.

As far as injectors, every car is different. What ZL1 Tibs said above is a great point. Some cars are running out of fuel at 5% over drive while others are running 18% overdrive on stock injectors. Either way, I would go with JREs 75 + Headers/Cat delete pipes depending on what you can afford.

Now, if you plan on busting out the extra thousand for injectors, then just go for more pulley, at least a 18% over drive (9.1"), such as the JRE 125 RWHP kit. To be honest, I would recommend this just for future proofing. It'll only be another grand or so and you'll get a setup that in my view is a lot safer with the bigger injectors, plus you'll make significantly more power.

[Nor Cal ZL1]

Once you tune your warranty is gone if you have an engine failure. GM will request ECM data, and even if returned to stock they will see the reflash. If the reflash does not match up to a dealership visit they will know, and void the powertrain warranty, not just the engine. As far as the injectors, some get away with it, while others don't. Underfueling these motors is the leading failure cause, when modified, along with poor tuning. You have to at least data log the duty cycle to see what percentage your at.

If it is underfueled, tuned, with a pulley and headers and something goes wrong, it is going to be expensive because the repairs are on you.

Im not saying to not do it, but you have to make sure it is is right, and not just take someones word for it. Too much at risk.

[Nor Cal ZL1]

Have a read through these

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=408032

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=380888

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462840

[Nor Cal ZL1]

A few notes on not tuning and the rear o2 sensors. After 2012 years GM did something to the calibrations, the end result is the rear o2 sensors are much more sensative.
If you add headers, or even just add High flow cats keeping the rear o2 sensor CEL is a challenge that very few have been able to do with out tuning to turn them off. Very few have had success, even using the same parts. 90% will get a CEL.
Now the CEL is no big deal, but your going to want a code readed to clear them as well as check for any other CEL conditions. Once it comes on from the rear o2, the light stays on and you will not know if any other codes are fresh in the system until you access the computer and check.

The Big Daddies mini cat extender have the highest rate of success, but even then some get a CEL anyway.

[Nor Cal ZL1]

So approach with the mindset of making sure every thing is good to go.
As the above links esp anything Zo6 Byran posted along ith a few others, be sure to check it. Failures from under fueling can range from replacing melted/cracked pistons, to replacing the engine, both way above your current budget.

There is a good chance you will be fine, but be prepared to make it right if need be.
As noted in the link one was at 93% duty cycle stock, while others were in the 80% range.

[ZL1-Camaro]

Originally Posted by Dave2014-ZL1

So I shouldn't need any other parts for the process of eliminating the cats? I could just buy what you listed from eBay and the JRE 75hp package with or without tune and be good?

Yes that is the set up that I had been using.

[STUNNAH]

Originally Posted by Can'tHave2MuchHP

I vote for headers for the sound and few extra ponies. And if you ever decide to do more then you'll need headers. I don't recommend doing "Cat deletes" and all of these "mini cats" and stuff. That said running more than stock boost through stock cats will not last long. So if you can't afford headers than a JBL cat delete kit would be my recommendation but that's only if you can't get Headers which are a much better plan IMO. And pulling the NPP fuse does nothing for HP or extra flow, that is only changing what is on the last 12 inches of the exhaust. The backup starts at the lower flowing manifolds and stock cats. Pulling the NPP fuse is not a reason to get or not get cat deletes/headers.

The only reason I suggested pulling the fuse as an alternative to headers was due to the minimal HP gain...Pulling the fuse does not increase HP but it does give a louder, deeper growl to the stock system...As a matter of fact the OP can do the fuse pull right now and notice the difference in the exhaust sound, that way he can determine if he still wants to go with a header or may be satisfied for the time being and do the header later...IJS...