Help getting my car past 500hp.

[spartacus459]

I've got a 2015 2SS 1LE and wanted to get it up to over 500hp since my buddy is buying a new 2017 SRT 392. Was hoping to get some advice on this, looking at the BTR stage 4 cams. On their website I see you can add pushrods and spring kits to your order, which ones should I get? I'm fairly confident I can install one myself, but what do you do to get it tuned once you get it done? Do you start it up and drive it to a shop for the tune, or do you need to tow it somewhere from the garage to avoid part damage? Also ordering the cold air inductions intake and still looking at long tube headers but they're so many options. Was gonna run a set of those without cats, are mufflers something I should look at or can I run long tube, without cats through say a 3 inch pipe without mufflers. Suggestions to mods after these are appreciated. Car isn't my daily, I have a truck for that. The car gets like 20 miles a week put on it.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[WoodBoss]

Do you have Drag Radials on your car? If so you should be real close to him with just a CAI, Headers & a tune. You will also have to be pretty good at launching and shifting since you have a manual. Going over 500HP is not easy.

[lazerlemonta]

Considering my current set up I eat up and spit out 392 cars lol you wont need 500 but the btr 4 and basic bolt ons will get you to 500+ over 500 is a head port job or gmpp heads away. I run mid 11s @120 last time I went to the track.

[07-SRT]

FBO cam and ported heads got me 494/478 SAE corrected and so far I haven't lost to a stock or bolt on 392 from a dig or roll yet... I'm on drag radials though they were all on street tires

[lazerlemonta]

Originally Posted by 07-SRT

FBO cam and ported heads got me 494/478 SAE corrected and so far I haven't lost to a stock or bolt on 392 from a dig or roll yet... I'm on drag radials though they were all on street tires

Lighter clutch my friend! Really wakes these up

[lazerlemonta]

If you have E85 local deck the heads and bump compression for the icing on the cake! My goal is as close to 500 on the stock cam and heads as I can get.......... Getting closer and closer.

[07-SRT]

Originally Posted by lazerlemonta

Lighter clutch my friend! Really wakes these up

I have Twin disk McLeod RST with lighter steel flywheel

[Bo White]

Port the heads and E85 conversion

[camaro eth eth]

I made 485/478 on btr stage 4 with pacesetter headers, catless, 3" exhaust and cai. with ud pulley and maybe a few little things youll make 500. those 392's are beyond slow stock.

[spartacus459]

Originally Posted by camaro eth eth

I made 485/478 on btr stage 4 with pacesetter headers, catless, 3" exhaust and cai. with ud pulley and maybe a few little things youll make 500. those 392's are beyond slow stock.

Did you order the cam off their website? What springs and rods did you add?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[Avenging Orange]

What made you decide you needed that particular number to achieve your goal?.....or that hp alone is all you need?

[Gunmetal Speedster]

Originally Posted by Avenging Orange

What made you decide you needed that particular number to achieve your goal?.....or that hp alone is all you need?

He's got a point. All the power in the world won't do you any good if you cant drive your car haha.

Originally Posted by spartacus459

I've got a 2015 2SS 1LE and wanted to get it up to over 500hp since my buddy is buying a new 2017 SRT 392. Was hoping to get some advice on this, looking at the BTR stage 4 cams. On their website I see you can add pushrods and spring kits to your order, which ones should I get? I'm fairly confident I can install one myself, but what do you do to get it tuned once you get it done? Do you start it up and drive it to a shop for the tune, or do you need to tow it somewhere from the garage to avoid part damage? Also ordering the cold air inductions intake and still looking at long tube headers but they're so many options. Was gonna run a set of those without cats, are mufflers something I should look at or can I run long tube, without cats through say a 3 inch pipe without mufflers. Suggestions to mods after these are appreciated. Car isn't my daily, I have a truck for that. The car gets like 20 miles a week put on it.

Well to answer your questions as best I can; BTR stage 4 should be more than enough to beat him coupled with an CAI intake, longtubes, and a tune. On the BTR site, if you're doing the LS cam kit option which is recommended, it should ask to add springs and pushrods like you said. Choose the .660 lift titanium retainers if you want the added peace of mind for your spring selection, which is I believe a $50 extra option. Or you can choose the .660 lift with the steel retainers if not and that should come free with the kit. As for pushrods, generally the rule of thumb is you want to measure those to be accurate. Those aren't something you want to get the wrong size in. Ask BTR what they recommend for your car and order those with your kit. But make sure you're able to exchange them if when you measure they end up being the wrong size. I ordered 7.425 because that is what Lethal Racing said they used on 99% of their LS3's with the Night Fury cam, but I actually ended up having to use 7.400. As far as a tune goes, you have a few options. Ultimately a dyno tune will be your best bet, that way you can really dial in the cam and get drivability perfect. You'll get the most gains that way. However, that requires you to start the car up and drive it to your local tuner so he can do that for you. People have drove their newly cammed camaros to a tuner, as long as you don't drive it hard, you should be alright. However, that is something I still wouldn't do, just my preference.

Your other option is having a custom tune on a handheld tuner ready to go so as soon as you finish the cam; you can upload the custom tune to it and that will make it much better than being untuned, and you can use that until you can get to a tuner for a dyno tune. This can be beneficial because you were also asking about longtubes. Longtubes without cats can be used with a full 3in exhaust without mufflers. Just might be loud. Especially with a cam. But a good loud When installing longtubes without cats, the car is going to throw a check engine light because of the rear o2 sensors no longer having the cats to sniff out. So usually what people will do is buy a handheld tuner with a custom tune that will maximize the gains from the newly added longtubes and cold air intake, as well as tune out the o2 sensors so there is no check engine light, and correct all your air/fuel ratios so you arent running lean/rich.

Now the great thing about buying the handheld tuner for that is if you purchase one through DynoSteve, who is a very talented vendor here on the forums who specializes in tuning, you receive free tune updates for life. Which means you can have him tune the intake and longtubes, and then get a free tune for your new cam so it's not untuned to hold you over until you can get a local dyno tune.

My recommendations are this (provided you have the cash and means to do so): Buy the CAI intake and longtubes from wherever, and then buy the handheld tuner from DynoSteve, that grants you free tune updates for life. Install the intake and longtubes, then send over your stock file to Dynosteve. He will modify it and send it back. Now your good to go for those two mods until you get your cam. Once you get your cam, contact dynosteve again to have him modify your tune accordingly that way you dont have to drive on an untuned cammed car. Install the cam but before starting the car, upload the new cam tune. Once you're able to, drive the car to your local tuner. Once you get there, BEFORE the tuner starts on your car, REMOVE the dynosteve tune and reset the car back to the stock tune. This will unmarry the handheld tuner and enable you to resell it here on the forums and make roughly $200-$250 back. That is, in my opinion, the safest route to go as the car will never be untuned for your mods. That is important to me, to others not so much. It's your car so it's your choice. Good luck with whatever you decide! Hope this helps, happy modding!

[spartacus459]

Originally Posted by Gunmetal Speedster

He's got a point. All the power in the world won't do you any good if you cant drive your car haha.


Well to answer your questions as best I can; BTR stage 4 should be more than enough to beat him coupled with an CAI intake, longtubes, and a tune. On the BTR site, if you're doing the LS cam kit option which is recommended, it should ask to add springs and pushrods like you said. Choose the .660 lift titanium retainers if you want the added peace of mind for your spring selection, which is I believe a $50 extra option. Or you can choose the .660 lift with the steel retainers if not and that should come free with the kit. As for pushrods, generally the rule of thumb is you want to measure those to be accurate. Those aren't something you want to get the wrong size in. Ask BTR what they recommend for your car and order those with your kit. But make sure you're able to exchange them if when you measure they end up being the wrong size. I ordered 7.425 because that is what Lethal Racing said they used on 99% of their LS3's with the Night Fury cam, but I actually ended up having to use 7.400. As far as a tune goes, you have a few options. Ultimately a dyno tune will be your best bet, that way you can really dial in the cam and get drivability perfect. You'll get the most gains that way. However, that requires you to start the car up and drive it to your local tuner so he can do that for you. People have drove their newly cammed camaros to a tuner, as long as you don't drive it hard, you should be alright. However, that is something I still wouldn't do, just my preference.

Your other option is having a custom tune on a handheld tuner ready to go so as soon as you finish the cam; you can upload the custom tune to it and that will make it much better than being untuned, and you can use that until you can get to a tuner for a dyno tune. This can be beneficial because you were also asking about longtubes. Longtubes without cats can be used with a full 3in exhaust without mufflers. Just might be loud. Especially with a cam. But a good loud When installing longtubes without cats, the car is going to throw a check engine light because of the rear o2 sensors no longer having the cats to sniff out. So usually what people will do is buy a handheld tuner with a custom tune that will maximize the gains from the newly added longtubes and cold air intake, as well as tune out the o2 sensors so there is no check engine light, and correct all your air/fuel ratios so you arent running lean/rich.

Now the great thing about buying the handheld tuner for that is if you purchase one through DynoSteve, who is a very talented vendor here on the forums who specializes in tuning, you receive free tune updates for life. Which means you can have him tune the intake and longtubes, and then get a free tune for your new cam so it's not untuned to hold you over until you can get a local dyno tune.

My recommendations are this (provided you have the cash and means to do so): Buy the CAI intake and longtubes from wherever, and then buy the handheld tuner from DynoSteve, that grants you free tune updates for life. Install the intake and longtubes, then send over your stock file to Dynosteve. He will modify it and send it back. Now your good to go for those two mods until you get your cam. Once you get your cam, contact dynosteve again to have him modify your tune accordingly that way you dont have to drive on an untuned cammed car. Install the cam but before starting the car, upload the new cam tune. Once you're able to, drive the car to your local tuner. Once you get there, BEFORE the tuner starts on your car, REMOVE the dynosteve tune and reset the car back to the stock tune. This will unmarry the handheld tuner and enable you to resell it here on the forums and make roughly $200-$250 back. That is, in my opinion, the safest route to go as the car will never be untuned for your mods. That is important to me, to others not so much. It's your car so it's your choice. Good luck with whatever you decide! Hope this helps, happy modding!

Thanks for the reply that covered everything I asked about.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[spartacus459]

Originally Posted by Avenging Orange

What made you decide you needed that particular number to achieve your goal?.....or that hp alone is all you need?

500 is what I thought would be a good place to be at without throwing tons of money towards forced induction. The fact is I probably won't have this car forever, eventually I will probably upgrade to the new model year in maybe 5 or so years. I thought 500 would be a good spot to be at to future proof against new cars, aswell as be a good spot for track use.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk