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#1 |
![]() Drives: WS6 Join Date: May 2016
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 110
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Another ZL1 jacking points thread..
I have the jack pad from zl1addons.com. I want to get the entire car off the ground so that I can remove the wheels to get them powder coated. Here's my plan:
Jack the car from the front drivers side pinch weld, then place jack stand somewhere under that side of the car. Then, jack the car from the front passenger side, then place jack stand somewhere under that side of the car. Rinse and repeat for the rear of the car. In my head this idea doesn't seem great, just because the excessive angles that will be put on the jack/jackstands. Is there any other way to do this? Is there a location where I can get the whole front in the air, then move to the rear and get the whole rear in the air? |
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#2 | |
![]() Drives: 2014 ZL1 Red Hot M6 Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 75
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Quote:
This is the way I have done it, but found out it's better to lift in smaller increments. The ZL1 chassis is so stiff, when I would lift a corner too much, a different corner would be lifting off the jackstand....a bit disconcerting... If there is a better way I'd like to know also
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#3 |
![]() Drives: WS6 Join Date: May 2016
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 110
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I guess nobody lifts their cars
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Clarksville Tennesse.
Posts: 6,156
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Use ramps on the front and jack from the front crossmember under the engine, on the back use a block of wood and lift at the diff housing, been doing it like that since day one.
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Orange Krush II
1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components. |
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 02 Z06, 95 Trans Am, 2012 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Southeast
Posts: 1,838
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You'll crack the belly pan on the ZL1 like that.
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#6 |
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Team 913
Drives: '14 ZL1, '15 Jeep GC, ‘22 Ram 2500 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: USA, Central CA
Posts: 1,119
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I use two jacks at same time on the front(using the jack pads)... once at desired height i put jackstands under and lower onto the stands, raise the rear from the diff, then two jack stands for the rear and lower onto the stands
I have a hockey puck on the jack I use for the rear diff... |
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#7 |
![]() Drives: WS6 Join Date: May 2016
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 110
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Where are you jacking the diff from?
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#8 |
![]() Drives: WS6 Join Date: May 2016
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 110
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There is a picture in this thread that shows the undercarriage, if you wouldnt mind showing the exact spot you guys are jacking from.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=405847 |
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#9 |
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Team 913
Drives: '14 ZL1, '15 Jeep GC, ‘22 Ram 2500 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: USA, Central CA
Posts: 1,119
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Just post the rear cover on the iron center section
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#10 | |
![]() Drives: 2013 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 CRT M6 Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 103
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Watch this video for one option.
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2013 Camaro ZL1 - CRT M6 ECF
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#11 |
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Instagram: Sangstah
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I do one side at a time, works fine from the pinch welds
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#12 |
![]() Drives: WS6 Join Date: May 2016
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 110
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Yeah, I dont want to have to buy to jacks. It sucks that you have to jack from the sides. That means when I work on it in my two car garage I'll have to park the ZL1 in the center of the garage so that I can access both sides. With my Vette I could just jack up from the front subframe and the rear subframe it was super easy.
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