best cam for automatic

[rocco67]

Looking for a cam and valve train upgrade for my next round of mods.My car is auto so I'm looking for something that won't surge/buck like crazy..also it's just for the street (no drag strip or track days) but still want a kick ass set-up.
what I've done so far:
2.5 upper,isolator and ported snout
ati balancer and 8.6 lower
id850 injectors
plugs and wires upgraded
arh headers and catless
roto-fab intake and hx reservoir
I will also be adding meth injection when I do the cam(all we get around here is 91 octane)
any advice would be appreciated

[Can'tHave2MuchHP]

BTR stage 2 or 3. Also look at Jannetty Racing's stuff, he's got good cams for the ZL1 as well. Vengeance Racing grinds a good cam spec that's automatic/road friendly.

[Stephen12ZL1]

BTR 3 seems fine and not that lumpy. My friend has a CTSv and the LS9 cam he had three years ago was as lumpy as a BTR 3. The BTR 3 makes way more power with similar idle.

[Dega Man]

Check out Livernois Motorsports they have some awesome grinds as well for auto's.

[silversleeper]

Cam basics for those deciding on what to choose.
A new cam can make more power, same or more mpg, and add a mean idle sound.

Downside: They can make worse mpg, more stumble at low end street rpms, don't make enough vacuum to effectively power the brake booster, and greatly increased wear on springs and valve tips and guides. Installation isn't as simple as e.g. a CAI and likely requires new springs.

A supercharger cam should have a wider angle and less overlap with the lobes. This is because the intake charge is pressurized and will blow out thru an open exhaust valve if they are open at the same time. On a naturally aspirated motor it takes more time to get the intake air moving and this is less of an issue except long overlaps. Don't buy a naturally aspirated cam for your supercharged engine. You do want negative overlap (both valves are closed for some #of degrees, say 1 to 10+ at least).

Higher lifts often give more hp and not negatively effect mpg or driveability, but one famous cam maker has user reported valvetrain damage on LSA engines from their unusually high lifts (GT...)

Longer durations on the lobes where the valves are open give the hp but are limited by overlap which is a bad thing.

As you know a cam with a very choppy idle, often called stage3 (more overlap) struggles against the automatic transmission torque converter pulling on the engine at idle speeds or slightly above idle. A poor "fix" is to raise the idle speed (better is a looser high stall torque converter). This causes more heating of the trans fluid as the torque converter is trying to pull the car against the brakes at a stop. Power brakes may work poorly with the low vacuum due to the cam.

Brian Tooley Racing has good honest descriptions on their cams and people have had good results, here is the link to their cams. I just saw he revised their stage 3 cam to make less maximum top end power but a much better street cam. That is something to keep in mind watching the youtube videos of choppy idles or reviews of streetability if it is the old or new grind.

https://www.briantooleyracing.com/bt...am-motion.html
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ne...m32346176.html
Old grind stage 3 BTR - Stage 3 Camshaft (LSA/LS9) Specs: 231/248 .617"/.595" 120+5
New stage 3 grind 223/246 .610"/.600" 117+6

Our LSA engines had a factory cam that is not very performance oriented. That's why there is so much performance gain in a properly ground cam installation. They should have given us at least the LS9 cam. Likely they didn't because they always try to rate the camaro engines with less hp that the corvette's to justify their price.

[mlee]

Originally Posted by rocco67

Looking for a cam and valve train upgrade for my next round of mods.My car is auto so I'm looking for something that won't surge/buck like crazy..also it's just for the street (no drag strip or track days) but still want a kick ass set-up.
what I've done so far:
2.5 upper,isolator and ported snout
ati balancer and 8.6 lower
id850 injectors
plugs and wires upgraded
arh headers and catless
roto-fab intake and hx reservoir
I will also be adding meth injection when I do the cam(all we get around here is 91 octane)
any advice would be appreciated

you've got a good lineup there and the suggestions here are good ones. I think you'll definitely enjoy the cam. Then maybe a Corsa catback system.

[ABADZL1]

BTR has a new "torque" cam that would be great for street vs. one of the 1/4 mile drag cams. I just removed my BTR and put in a GP Tuning 2.5 cam. (Popular in the CTSV crowd). I really like it.
Like mentioned above, stay away from LSK lobe profiles. Like the GT9. They beat the crap out of valve trains. They are meant for racing applications only. As noted by Comp Cams. You could call Brian Tooley and tell him what your looking for and have one custom spec'd for your needs instead of buying a shelf cam also. Lots of options out there.

[revo1059]

Here is what I have in mine. Idles pretty smooth and doesn't pull hard against the trans.

227/246 .613"/.596" 120+5

Originally Posted by silversleeper

Cam basics for those deciding on what to choose.
A new cam can make more power, same or more mpg, and add a mean idle sound.

Downside: They can make worse mpg, more stumble at low end street rpms, don't make enough vacuum to effectively power the brake booster, and greatly increased wear on springs and valve tips and guides. Installation isn't as simple as e.g. a CAI and likely requires new springs.

A supercharger cam should have a wider angle and less overlap with the lobes. This is because the intake charge is pressurized and will blow out thru an open exhaust valve if they are open at the same time. On a naturally aspirated motor it takes more time to get the intake air moving and this is less of an issue except long overlaps. Don't buy a naturally aspirated cam for your supercharged engine. You do want negative overlap (both valves are closed for some #of degrees, say 1 to 10+ at least).

Higher lifts often give more hp and not negatively effect mpg or driveability, but one famous cam maker has user reported valvetrain damage on LSA engines from their unusually high lifts (GT...)

Longer durations on the lobes where the valves are open give the hp but are limited by overlap which is a bad thing.

As you know a cam with a very choppy idle, often called stage3 (more overlap) struggles against the automatic transmission torque converter pulling on the engine at idle speeds or slightly above idle. A poor "fix" is to raise the idle speed (better is a looser high stall torque converter). This causes more heating of the trans fluid as the torque converter is trying to pull the car against the brakes at a stop. Power brakes may work poorly with the low vacuum due to the cam.

Brian Tooley Racing has good honest descriptions on their cams and people have had good results, here is the link to their cams. I just saw he revised their stage 3 cam to make less maximum top end power but a much better street cam. That is something to keep in mind watching the youtube videos of choppy idles or reviews of streetability if it is the old or new grind.

https://www.briantooleyracing.com/bt...am-motion.html
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ne...m32346176.html
Old grind stage 3 BTR - Stage 3 Camshaft (LSA/LS9) Specs: 231/248 .617"/.595" 120+5
New stage 3 grind 223/246 .610"/.600" 117+6

Our LSA engines had a factory cam that is not very performance oriented. That's why there is so much performance gain in a properly ground cam installation. They should have given us at least the LS9 cam. Likely they didn't because they always try to rate the camaro engines with less hp that the corvette's to justify their price.

[jrhagen]

GT9 and .650 springs.

[rocco67]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

Cam basics for those deciding on what to choose.
A new cam can make more power, same or more mpg, and add a mean idle sound.

Downside: They can make worse mpg, more stumble at low end street rpms, don't make enough vacuum to effectively power the brake booster, and greatly increased wear on springs and valve tips and guides. Installation isn't as simple as e.g. a CAI and likely requires new springs.

A supercharger cam should have a wider angle and less overlap with the lobes. This is because the intake charge is pressurized and will blow out thru an open exhaust valve if they are open at the same time. On a naturally aspirated motor it takes more time to get the intake air moving and this is less of an issue except long overlaps. Don't buy a naturally aspirated cam for your supercharged engine. You do want negative overlap (both valves are closed for some #of degrees, say 1 to 10+ at least).

Higher lifts often give more hp and not negatively effect mpg or driveability, but one famous cam maker has user reported valvetrain damage on LSA engines from their unusually high lifts (GT...)

Longer durations on the lobes where the valves are open give the hp but are limited by overlap which is a bad thing.

As you know a cam with a very choppy idle, often called stage3 (more overlap) struggles against the automatic transmission torque converter pulling on the engine at idle speeds or slightly above idle. A poor "fix" is to raise the idle speed (better is a looser high stall torque converter). This causes more heating of the trans fluid as the torque converter is trying to pull the car against the brakes at a stop. Power brakes may work poorly with the low vacuum due to the cam.

Brian Tooley Racing has good honest descriptions on their cams and people have had good results, here is the link to their cams. I just saw he revised their stage 3 cam to make less maximum top end power but a much better street cam. That is something to keep in mind watching the youtube videos of choppy idles or reviews of streetability if it is the old or new grind.

https://www.briantooleyracing.com/bt...am-motion.html
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ne...m32346176.html
Old grind stage 3 BTR - Stage 3 Camshaft (LSA/LS9) Specs: 231/248 .617"/.595" 120+5
New stage 3 grind 223/246 .610"/.600" 117+6

Our LSA engines had a factory cam that is not very performance oriented. That's why there is so much performance gain in a properly ground cam installation. They should have given us at least the LS9 cam. Likely they didn't because they always try to rate the camaro engines with less hp that the corvette's to justify their price.

Thanks for the info...sounds like btr is the way to go.
Would the new stage 3 grind still need a higher stall torque converter ??

[silversleeper]

Originally Posted by rocco67

Thanks for the info...sounds like btr is the way to go.
Would the new stage 3 grind still need a higher stall torque converter ??

I don't think it would require a high stall converter but you realize by going with the stage 3 over a stage 1 or 2 it might have some light surge at low rpm and choppy idle.
A cam like gp tuning / LT1z 's or BTRs stage 1 would still make good power but drive more close to a factory cam.

BTR stage 3
BTR stage 3
Here is a stage three idle and you hear how it sounds like a healthy cam in there.
I can't say one cam is the way to go. I'm leaning towards the GP tuning / LT1z's stage 2 or maybe their 2.5 cam as mentioned above.
stage 2 LT1z
stage 2.5 LT1z GP tuning
I realized after looking again at the new BTR grind he closed up the lobe center angles from the old grind so it won't be quite as tame as if he kept the old lobe center angles (I slightly misspoke saying it would be much more of a daily driver cam). I'm guessing he did this for power and sound.

[rocco67]

Originally Posted by ABADZL1

BTR has a new "torque" cam that would be great for street vs. one of the 1/4 mile drag cams. I just removed my BTR and put in a GP Tuning 2.5 cam. (Popular in the CTSV crowd). I really like it.
Like mentioned above, stay away from LSK lobe profiles. Like the GT9. They beat the crap out of valve trains. They are meant for racing applications only. As noted by Comp Cams. You could call Brian Tooley and tell him what your looking for and have one custom spec'd for your needs instead of buying a shelf cam also. Lots of options out there.

Car sounds awesome...is your car auto ??

[ABADZL1]

It's a manual. And that cam works well with autos also. Tks!

[rocco67]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

I don't think it would require a high stall converter but you realize by going with the stage 3 over a stage 1 or 2 it might have some light surge at low rpm and choppy idle.
A cam like gp tuning / LT1z 's or BTRs stage 1 would still make good power but drive more close to a factory cam.

BTR stage 3
BTR stage 3
Here is a stage three idle and you hear how it sounds like a healthy cam in there.
I can't say one cam is the way to go. I'm leaning towards the GP tuning / LT1z's stage 2 or maybe their 2.5 cam as mentioned above.
stage 2 LT1z
stage 2.5 LT1z GP tuning
I realized after looking again at the new BTR grind he closed up the lobe center angles from the old grind so it won't be quite as tame as if he kept the old lobe center angles (I slightly misspoke saying it would be much more of a daily driver cam). I'm guessing he did this for power and sound.

Again thanks for the info
So my question is does anyone make a nice cam strictly for the automatic ??