IT LIVES! My Z/LE ZL1 + 1LE + 2SS = Z/LE ;o) LSA SC [COTW 2/09/15]

[zman1969]

Originally Posted by hammdo

I do have the tools, just not enough room to get in there with it - very tight fit on the sensor .

NP on E85! Works great on my setup! Thanks Rich!

-Don

Ahh Ok I used one when I did the R&R on the LSA. Since my post above, I went to the beginning, starting reading and reading 3 days later I wanted to tell you now I feel like I know your pretty well! and I'm amazed of your build, attention to detail.. incredible! the first time I saw your car I noticed you had alot going on under the hood! next time you go out for a drive stop by and get me! I like a good test drive

[DSX Tuning]

Those "Sultan of Spark" coils are snake oil. I'd put your stock ones back on, regardless of the sensor issue.

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by DSX Tuning

Those "Sultan of Spark" coils are snake oil. I'd put your stock ones back on, regardless of the sensor issue.

I have 6 new stock ones with 2 due tomorrow so that will happen regardless...

Those were on as a test case a few years ago...

-Don

[hammdo]

Ok, ran a dedicated 12v wire (Dave from DSX said it needs to be 12v) to the flex fuel sensor. Tested that and its showing the flex fuel % correct. I'm waiting on 2 factory LSA coils to come in (6 are on, just waiting on the 2 others due in tomorrow), then, I'll go and do a test....

-Don

[hammdo]

Picked up a very nice Alcantara Auto steering wheel. I noticed when road racing the all leather was a bit 'slick'. This should solve that one -- cleaned it up -- can't tell its used:



Should give me a better grip for sure...

Paddle shifters are nice ;o)

-Don

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by zman1969

Ahh Ok I used one when I did the R&R on the LSA. Since my post above, I went to the beginning, starting reading and reading 3 days later I wanted to tell you now I feel like I know your pretty well! and I'm amazed of your build, attention to detail.. incredible! the first time I saw your car I noticed you had alot going on under the hood! next time you go out for a drive stop by and get me! I like a good test drive

Yes, its a LONG read for sure, and I've done a ton to the car -- most of it myself, until this forged rebuild (didn't have time as I'm working 2 jobs ;o). I've enjoyed all of it -- even the tough things. All said, I'd do it again -- I'm the kind of person that likes to build vs buy it done (as some said I should have started with a ZL1). To me, what fun is it if I buy it all ready built?

Doing it this way, I pretty much know every inch of the car and what to expect. If a problem comes up, I should know where to begin. Its all about the journey (and ride of course ;o)

Thanks for taking the time -- I know its a LOT to read ;o)...

-Don

[hammdo]

Did this in about 20 minutes -- very easy (once you've done one). I like the feel of this much better -- learned how to keep it clean so should be able to do that pretty easily.

Nice look:





Previous:




Now, waiting on the coils -- once those are on, I'll hook up the battery and see how it does...

-Don

[ABADZL1]

Originally Posted by hammdo

Did this in about 20 minutes -- very easy (once you've done one). I like the feel of this much better -- learned how to keep it clean so should be able to do that pretty easily.

Nice look:





Now, waiting on the coils -- once those are on, I'll hook up the battery and she how it does...

-Don

Come do one for me?

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by ABADZL1

Come do one for me?

7 hour drive, 20 minutes to r-n-r, no problem ;o)...

-Don

[hammdo]

The hits keep coming.

Steering wheel went on great -- not a single problem. Installing the new coils I found this:





Turns out these 'connectors' on the older version (10, 11 I believe) had issues with heat -- they get loose and fall out/off -- and that is what happened here -- they fell off, put them back on, installed the coils and....

Stability Track issue -- yep, she had a slight miss.

Used this (laser heat gun) on each header tube:



To see which cylinder was the problem -- yep, its one of the two that fell out. The #4 cylinder was @ 190° where all the others were 340° or higher (idling).

So #4 cylinder was cold -- took off the coil connector -- yep, came apart again...

Here is what they should look like (this is on the driver's side):



Damn, it figures -- I was lucky enough to discuss this with GPI -- appears that can happen on the earlier model -- so, ordered the LS3 version with the new connectors (these new harnesses happen to use the same connectors Dave @ DSX uses -- the better upgraded version). So, its the waiting game again until these new coil harnesses get here...

Such is life...

Here is the new harness (one for each side):



BUT, a steady signal from the Flex Fuel sensor (not one single blip) -- I'm betting it was these older coil connectors that impacted the voltage signal...

Factory coils are on anyway, just waiting on the harnesses...

-Don

[hammdo]

OK, this is a bit of a long one, so I'll break each up into their own sections

Coil Harness

ABS/StabiliTrak

VVT Delete

This is the coil harness.

One of the harness came in today -- big difference. Wire length is longer and, you had to pay attention to how the harness is installed - remember, these are on the 'back' of a coil bracket, so, looking @ this:



Now arranged:



You can see how much longer the new ones are and, the connector differences.

NOTE:

We need to setup the harness backwards (I believe these are directional). so, when I removed the harness cover, I flipped the harness and now #2 connector is to the right -- I then 'dotted' them so I know which one went where.

Here is the part #:



Routed the coil harness where the previous one was -- worked perfect and, lot more wire to route correctly. This did solve the 'miss' @ idle but, did not solve the StabiliTrak/ABS error. Also, the % of Alcohol has not blipped yet, -- have to wait until the ABS is taken care of..

-Don

[hammdo]

While I was routing the new Flex Fuel Wiring, I raised the right side up, disconnected the battery, and ran the white #40 wire. In order to remove the fuel line, I had to move the ABS module connector -- which meant I had to dis-connect it from the EBCM. Looks like that opened up another can of worms!

I had to move the connector. Once I got everything back together and did a test start -- the StabiliTrak came on WITH the ABS light.

Normally, that would be a spark plug wire loose, but not in this case. Since the coil connector was damaged, I went ahead and replace it on the passenger's side (driver's on it way). I also fixed my tune for VVT delete (more on that later). I had to know 'what' the issue was with the ABS, so, I had this little gem:



BlueDriver. This is an OBDII Bluetooth sender that works with the BlueDriver software -- and why did I get it? It will read ABS DTCs! Yep, I have a Tech2, but this will work with my IPad -- and I love that. So, I installed their software on the IPad, hooked up my BlueDriver Bluetooth adapter, and bingo, ABS Code!





The Code was C0050 -- Right Rear Passengers sensor! Well, I happened to have a 'rear' sensor when I thought I broke it the last time, so, I had to remove it any way (this sensor was like $12). I had to jack up the rear, remove the right rear tire, get to the 'sensor' connector, then unbolt it:

Sensor:



Installed:







Took all of 15 minutes -- I know, but since I had to do the work anyway, just eliminate it. I can tell you that 90% of the time, its the sensors but, not for me (2010 model years had a 'body rub' area and that is more common on that year model -- thus, look for a 'cut' wire first)...

So, put it back together, cleared the abs code (with my new best friend), and started it up -- yep, you guessed it, same code.

So, NOW, I need to trace a broken/grounded feed wire -- thank goodness I have the service manuals.

The connector on the EBCM is K17:



I need to check a white wire (31) and brown wire (19):



When I removed the K17 connector, I did notice where some 'heat' melted the outer shell protector -- that is where I'll start -- its the 'last' thing I removed and installed -- and I'm betting, that is where I'll find it.

Break time -- I'll dig into that next...

-Don

[hammdo]

So, when going from VVT to and LS3 type cam, to avoid codes and issues, its necessary to also 'disable' VVT.

My tune had the 'codes' as not reported but, after talking with Ryan, we both realized we didn't have the VVT 'off'. I know it wasn't off as I was getting a 'permanent' P0010 code (and it won't disappear until AFTER 100 'good' ignition cycles yikes!)

So, I verified with Ryan, and this is what it was before:





Now:





Uploaded the tune, started the car -- now its running smoother (new coil harness), tune has the vvt deleted. Now, I have to 'clear out' the permanent code ;o)

Man, having tools is awesome...

-Don

[hammdo]

FYI, the new alcantara steering wheel is awesome...

-Don