2013 LS - Oil Change & a question about winterizing

[rbenotti]

It's coming time to change the oil in the V6. Not to start a war over oil, but in "13 the recommendation was Synthetic Blend. Straight Synthetic isn't always better (in non turbo Suburas - of which I own one, conventional is best for the head gaskets. Synthetic can leak/weep/whatever if all it's ever run is conventional oil I guess).

Will straight Synthetic benefit longer before the oil breaks down (basically, the oil life sensor takes longer to get to 0).

My thought is - the car was spec'd for Blend. Do I need to/should I go Full Synthetic?

It should be noted that at some point (when it gets cold), the car will be covered (just a car cover) for the winter. Should I add anything (besides fuel stabilizer to the gas) when I finally cover it up? Obviously a battery tender to sit on the battery.

Thanks!!

[Russell James]

Hard to make generalizations... like synthetic vs blend.... the brand makes a big difference.

The OLM is purely a calculation... what you put in there will make zero difference. I've seen people run completely out of oil, and then bitch about the monitor still showing xx %. Mcfly.... calculations have nothing to do with reality, still gotta open the hood and check.

You'll be fine with any oil in your favorite color bottle that meets the spec in your owner's manual. Start tracking the car or modding it... then really have to pay attention to using a top quality oil, the right filter, changed more often...

Stabil
Over inflate the tires to about 45
Start once a month and move it around a bit, running at least 30 mins, keeps the seals lubed.
Mouse traps and moth balls
Tender

[rbenotti]

Originally Posted by Russell James

Hard to make generalizations... like synthetic vs blend.... the brand makes a big difference.

The OLM is purely a calculation... what you put in there will make zero difference. I've seen people run completely out of oil, and then bitch about the monitor still showing xx %. Mcfly.... calculations have nothing to do with reality, still gotta open the hood and check.

You'll be fine with any oil in your favorite color bottle that meets the spec in your owner's manual. Start tracking the car or modding it... then really have to pay attention to using a top quality oil, the right filter, changed more often...

Stabil
Over inflate the tires to about 45
Start once a month and move it around a bit, running at least 30 mins, keeps the seals lubed.
Mouse traps and moth balls
Tender

Most oils meet the "spec" nowadays anyway, so what you say makes sense.The idea it to keep in a while, so Full Synthetic is probably a good idea.

The filter debate is as bad as the oil debate. Like you say - depends on what you are really doing with the car.

I figured it was a calculation. Just wonder how long it supposed to be.

Figured to start and run it once a month.
45 psi. Whew that seems high, but I get it.
Ah yes - mouse traps (outside) and moth balls (inside).


Thanks

[ChibiBlackSheep]

I never start my cars that are in storage. Just clean it, cover it, and leave it be.

(Obviously that's not all you do, you do want the stabilizer, air up tires, seal up exhaust tips, wrap important wires with dryer sheets, etc.)

For oil, I like mobil 1 with a wix filter. I run that set up on every single car in my stable and have one car over 200,000 miles.

Another thing is that I'll let it sit with the old oil, and first start of spring gets the oil change.

[Russell James]

I stored a '10 Camaro one winter... didn't start it for 5 months. First fire up, the rear main seal pissed oil out like crazy. Dealer fixed it under warranty, and the tech commented that oh yeah he's dealing with tons of engine and trans leaks from cars that sat all winter. Seals like to be lubed.

The worst thing for a car is just sitting there unused for months on months.

Also, if not run occasionally, the engine becomes a rain forest. Every day there is a condensation/evaporation cycle. Pull the oil cap off a car that has been sitting in the cold weather for a few months, the underside of the oil cap will look like a milk shake. If you start it once a month it burns off that condensation.

Been there, done it for 50 years. I've learned all the little storage tricks.
Mice will destroy a car. Stabil is awesome. And you will be amazed how much condensation builds up in an engine. Especially if stored in an attached garage.... the garage temp is constantly on the edge of above and below freezing... every day is a little rain forest in that engine.

If the oil has been condensating tons of water over the winter, pretty insignificant what quality of oil you put in it in the fall. It's garbage.

[Hixson]

thanks for the solid info - ill be watching this thread too as I get ready for winter

[Gossamer]

shouldn't be much condensation since it's room temperature so to speak. It's got nothing to do with freezing or above freezing. It's all about the variation of the temperatures with large swings.

Take a hot cup of coffee put it outside on a warm summer day, no condensation, take a cold beer put it outside in on a cold winter day, no condensation. Now a hot glass on a cold or cold glass on a hot day you'll get condensation.

Now if you have one of those mid winter warmups, then yes it can happen but once again it shouldn't be life threatening.

Always went back and forth on fresh oil for storage or dirty oil. Personally I think with all the by products of combustion you may be better off with fresh oil for storage. After it is a sealed system and should be virtually just as fresh in the spring.

However on my motorcycles, I would just fill the tank, push it to the corner of the garage and leave it. Oil change was dictated by how many miles I had on at time of storage.

[rbenotti]

To clarify, I'll be covering it (I think) not storing it. Just planning to not drive it (what the Subaru is for after all).

I know that may not be ideal, but the idea is to just not drive it in the winter.

Thanks for the info!

[Russell James]

Originally Posted by Gossamer

shouldn't be much condensation since it's room temperature so to speak. It's got nothing to do with freezing or above freezing. It's all about the variation of the temperatures with large swings.

Take a hot cup of coffee put it outside on a warm summer day, no condensation, take a cold beer put it outside in on a cold winter day, no condensation. Now a hot glass on a cold or cold glass on a hot day you'll get condensation.

Now if you have one of those mid winter warmups, then yes it can happen but once again it shouldn't be life threatening.

Always went back and forth on fresh oil for storage or dirty oil. Personally I think with all the by products of combustion you may be better off with fresh oil for storage. After it is a sealed system and should be virtually just as fresh in the spring.

However on my motorcycles, I would just fill the tank, push it to the corner of the garage and leave it. Oil change was dictated by how many miles I had on at time of storage.

An engine is not a sealed system, unless somehow you capped the intake and exhaust. Attached garages are the worst for engine condensation. The house heat keeps it fluctuating above and below freezing. Those swings trigger the condensation. I had one car in an attached garage... pulled the oil cap... milk shake city. Car that was out in a barn frozen solid... oil cap looked normal. And you can't tell by pulling the dipstick. The milkshake is on the top... underside of the valve covers, underside of the intake...

[Tom And Cheryl]

I have been storing cars for years and last year was the first for the Camaro, I always change my oil in spring and I was surprised at the amount of water that was in the oil in spring. I store the car
in a stand alone pole barn with concrete floors and I wrap the car in plastic pretty much. Even if you do a fall oil change I would recommend doing another one in spring. I'm from Wisconsin so it may depend on your location also.