Finally...twin turbos for my LFX

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB

That is crankcase pressure getting in through the valve cover seals. If you ever took the valve covers off they have gaskets on them around the spark plug tubes. If the crankcase isn't evac'd or vacuumed it will leak into there.

Mine used to do that until I put my crankcase under a vacuum.

Yeah I'm familiar with the bottom of a valve cover, the tube seal looked very dry but I guess such a small amount of oil over so many miles might not be visible at the seal? Only one of the six was like this.

I wont be having anymore crankcase pressure the way I'm setup now. But definitely need to look into a new evac setup other than the RX one.

[Can't_C_Me]

Originally Posted by sycraft

Yep. Where is that wide band at.. shouldn't it be after the turbos?. I am not a turbo guy so I may be wrong. Need to have good vacuum or at least a free vent out when needed. The oil cap one you have does not flow much especially if it has a pcv valve. Get the 1le separator or mightymouse oil cap breather asap

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

Yes correct, at least 12" from the turbos hot side.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by sycraft

Yep. Where is that wide band at.. shouldn't it be after the turbos?. I am not a turbo guy so I may be wrong. Need to have good vacuum or at least a free vent out when needed. The oil cap one you have does not flow much especially if it has a pcv valve. Get the 1le separator or mightymouse oil cap breather asap

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

That is after the turbo, about a foot away. I took the pcv valve out of the rx oil cap breather and seems to flow tons. When I shut the car off and then turn the key back on but don't start(scavenge pump running) I can see crankcase vapors being pushed out very freely. I don't really like the fact that it just flows freely both directions but at least I wont have to worry about blowing a seal. The Mightymouse breather cap flows out but not in correct? Do you get a lot of crankcase vapor smell inside the cabin?

[sycraft]

Originally Posted by JantzenOKC

That is after the turbo, about a foot away. I took the pcv valve out of the rx oil cap breather and seems to flow tons. When I shut the car off and then turn the key back on but don't start(scavenge pump running) I can see crankcase vapors being pushed out very freely. I don't really like the fact that it just flows freely both directions but at least I wont have to worry about blowing a seal. The Mightymouse breather cap flows out but not in correct? Do you get a lot of crankcase vapor smell inside the cabin?

none, but being boosted and modified you do get some smells at times. Really want to keep all air metered if at all possible. MM only flows out, takes almost 0 pressure to vent. great design.

[JantzenOKC]

Yup, I think my "new car smell" is definitely gone now...

I'm going to look into getting the MM stuff. So if you go with the can that has the breather on top would there be any use for the breather cap?

[sycraft]

Originally Posted by JantzenOKC

Yup, I think my "new car smell" is definitely gone now...

I'm going to look into getting the MM stuff. So if you go with the can that has the breather on top would there be any use for the breather cap?

I would, extra protection you have 2 turbos forcing air in, any blowby needs to be vented as to not damage seals and such. the vented can is one way vent too, make sure it has a check valve as well to keep boost from pressurizing the crankcase.

[JantzenOKC]

So it's all done but having an issue. Seems my #1 fuel injector is stuck open.

Before the test drive I let it idle for about 20-30 minutes and it did great. Drove about a mile and a half doing great then after getting into some boost it started running bad and flashing the check engine light. Pulled over and everything looked ok, barely started back up and limped back to the shop. Only code is a P0300 random misfire. I pulled the plugs and all were dry except #1 it was dripping fuel. So I look with a digital boroscope and there's a pool of gas in there. Any time the key is turned on and rail is pressurized its leaking fuel into the cylinder.

I've been working with Brian(Fabberge) over the phone and he's been great. Put the factory tune back in it and it didn't have any effect. Going to clean it up and start it while datalogging and see if they can see anything before I start tearing into it. I guess step one would be pulling the intake and unplugging the injector and see if it still leaks with the key on.. I'm almost positive it will. The fuel injector calls for 2.8 hours and requires a special tool to pull it and a special tool for putting the Teflon seal on the end.. not sure if there is a way around either of these or not. I haven't had to pull an injector on an a 3.6 yet. But I've seen where the Teflon seal is very delicate and easy to ruin on DI injectors.

It's crazy, I can't understand what could have happened to it. I don't really see how it could have anything to do with the turbo kit.. maybe just a crazy coincidence or an injector that was flawed from the factory and just gave out when it had to spray more fuel?? Who knows but it is what it is. They say you got to pay to play and I'm playing!

[sycraft]

make sure it is not held open by voltage, did you change any wiring recently?

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by sycraft

make sure it is not held open by voltage, did you change any wiring recently?

The only wiring that has been changed is for the scavenge pump and its fused to battery power, ground, and to a 10amp fuse that has power in run. I unplugged it just for kicks and no effect. The only thing that was changed on the engine itself was the spark plugs and the oil lines.

I'm going to pull the intake today and try to get to where I can unplug the injector.. that should tell me what I need to know.

[sycraft]

try swapping coils first.

[sycraft]

Fuel Injector Solenoid Coil Test
Diagnostic Instructions

• Perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle prior to using this diagnostic procedure.
• Review Strategy Based Diagnosis for an overview of the diagnostic approach.
• Diagnostic Procedure Instructions provides an overview of each diagnostic category.

Circuit/System Description The engine control module (ECM) supplies a separate high voltage supply circuit and a high voltage control circuit for each fuel injector. The fuel injector high voltage supply circuit and the high voltage control circuit are both controlled by the ECM. The ECM energizes each fuel injector by grounding the control circuit. The ECM controls each fuel injector with 65 V. This is controlled by a boost capacitor in the ECM. During the 65 V boost phase, the capacitor is discharged through a fuel injector, allowing for initial injector opening. The fuel injector is then held open with 12 V. A fuel injector coil winding resistance that is too high or too low will affect the engine driveability. The fuel injector coil windings are affected by temperature. The resistance of the fuel injector coil windings will increase as the temperature of the fuel injector increases.
Reference Information Schematic Reference Engine Controls Schematics
Electrical Information Reference

• Circuit Testing
• Connector Repairs
• Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections
• Wiring Repairs

<A id=d46620e91>Component Testing

Note:

• The resistance test must be performed at the fuel injector or mis-diagnosis will occur.
• The DMM and test leads must be calibrated to 0 Ω in order to prevent mis-diagnosis.

1. Ignition OFF, all vehicle system OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the appropriate Q17 Fuel Injector.
2. Test for 1.9–2.3 Ω at 20°C (68°F) between the high voltage supply circuit terminal 2 and the high voltage control circuit terminal 1 at the Q17 fuel injector.
   • If not within the specified range Replace the Q17 Fuel Injector.
   • If within the specified range
3. Test for infinite resistance between each terminal at the Q17 Fuel Injector and the Q17 Fuel Injector housing/case.
   • If less than infinite resistance Replace the Q17 Fuel Injector.
   • If infinite resistance
4. All OK, perform the Fuel Injector Balance Test.

Repair Instructions Perform the Diagnostic Repair Verification after completing the repair.
Fuel Injector Replacement
Fuel Injector Replacement
Removal Procedure

1. Relieve the high side fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief. Note: The fuel injectors have an alignment feature, note the position of the injectors alignment for installation.
2. Remove the fuel injection fuel rail assembly. Refer to Fuel Injection Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement - Bank 1 or Fuel Injection Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement - Bank 2.
3. For removal of the fuel injectors, refer to Fuel Rail and Injectors Cleaning and Inspection.

Installation Procedure

1. Prepare the fuel injectors for assembly, refer to Fuel Rail and Injectors Cleaning and Inspection. Note: The fuel injectors have an alignment feature and must be reinstalled as noted during removal.
2. Install the fuel injection fuel rail assembly. Refer to Fuel Injection Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement - Bank 1 or Fuel Injection Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement - Bank 2.
3. Pressure up the fuel system and check for leaks.

Fuel Injection Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement - Bank 1

Special Tools EN-49248 Injector Rail Assembly Remover
For regional tools refer to Special Tools

Removal Procedure

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief.
2. Remove the fuel pipe shield. Refer to Fuel Pipe Shield Replacement.
3. Remove the intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement.
4. Remove the fuel feed intermediate pipe. Refer to Fuel Feed Intermediate Pipe Replacement.
5. Remove the fuel injection fuel rail noise shield from the fuel rails.

1. Cut the plastic tie strap (1).
2. Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor electrical connector (2).
3. Remove the fuel pressure sensor (3).
4. 
5. Remove the bank 2 fuel rail fasteners (1).
6. 
7. Remove the bank 1 fuel rail fasteners (1) for clearance purposes.
8. 
9. Using the EN-49248–4 hook, raise the fuel rail (1) as an assembly.
10. Once the fuel rail is free, remove the EN-49248 special tool.
11. 
    
12. Slide the fuel rail (1) toward the front of the engine approximately 1 inch (25.4 mm), in order to clear the center injector bore.
13. Note: The direct fuel injectors must be rebuilt whenever the injector has been released from the fuel rail or cylinder head.
14. Once the fuel rail is removed, remove the fuel injectors and rebuild them. Refer to Fuel Rail and Injectors Cleaning and Inspection.
15. Installation Procedure

1. 
2. Slide the fuel rail (1) toward the rear of the engine approximately 1 inch (25.4 mm), in order to align the center injector bore.
   Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution.
3. Hand tighten the two outer fuel rail fasteners to seat the injectors.
4. Start and hand tighten the remaining fuel rail fasteners.
5. Tighten the fuel rail fasteners in the sequence shown above:
   1. First pass 12 Y (106 lb in).
   2. Final pass 23 Y (17 lb ft).
   
   
6. Tighten the fuel pressure sensor (3) to 33 Y (25 lb ft).
7. Connect the fuel pressure sensor electrical connector (2) and secure it with a new plastic zip tie.
8. Install the fuel feed intermediate pipe. Refer to Fuel Feed Intermediate Pipe Replacement.
9. Inspect for fuel leaks using the following procedure:
   1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF for 2 seconds.
   2. Turn OFF the ignition, for 10 seconds.
   3. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
   4. Inspect for fuel leaks.
10. Install the fuel injection fuel rail noise shield to the fuel rails.
11. Install the intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement.
12. Install the fuel pipe shield. Refer to Fuel Pipe Shield Replacement.
13. Install the low side fuel pressure service port cap.
14. Install the fuel tank cap.

Fuel Rail and Injectors Cleaning and Inspection LF1, LFW or LFX
Special Tools

• EN-47909 Injector Bore and Sleeve Cleaning Kit
• EN-49245 Injector Seal Installer Kit
• EN-49247 Injector Retaining Clip Installer

For equivalent regional tools, refer to Special Tools.

1. 

Detach and remove the fuel rail wiring harness (1) from the fuel injector rail.


Using a suitable tool remove the fuel injector to rail retainer (1) from the fuel injector rail by spreading both sides of the fuel injector to rail retainer at the same time. Discard the fuel injector to rail retainer (1). Carefully twist the fuel injector to remove the fuel injector (2) from the fuel injector rail.


Using a suitable tool remove the fuel injector bushing (3). Discard fuel injector bushing. Remove and discard the following components:
Fuel injector O-ring (1).
Plastic spacers (2).
Fuel injector seals (4).



Note: Do not apply force to the plastic housing of the fuel pressure sensor. Failure to comply will destroy the sensor.
Remove the fuel pressure sensor (1) from the fuel injector rail.
Note: Do not soak or submerge the fuel rail or injectors in solvent.
Clean the exterior of the fuel injector rail and fuel injectors with solvent using the injector bore and sleeve cleaning kit EN-47909 injector bore and sleeve cleaning kit.



Inspect the fuel injector rail (1) for the following conditions:
Damage, debris or restrictions to the fuel rail
Damage, debris or restrictions to the fuel ports in the fuel rail
Damage to the mounting area for the fuel rail
Damage to the fuel rail mounting bolts or mounting bolt grommets/isolators
Damage to the threads on the fuel rail feed fitting
Damage to the threads in the fuel pressure sensor bore
Damage to the fuel pressure sensor connector, threads, or sealing face
If any of the above conditions are found, replace the fuel injector rails. Do not attempt to repair the fuel injector rails.


Note: Do not apply force to the plastic housing of the fuel pressure sensor. Failure to comply will destroy the sensor.
Install the fuel pressure sensor (1) to the fuel injector rail.
Note: Ensure that the fuel rail threads have been cleaned of any excess fuel or the fuel pressure sensor will NOT seal properly.

1. Lubricate the threads and the sealing area in the fuel rail with silicon free engine oil. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers for recommended lubricant.
2. Lubricate the threads and the sealing area on the fuel pressure sensor with silicon free engine oil. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers for recommended lubricant.
3. Install the fuel pressure sensor to the fuel injector rail and hand tighten.
4. Remove the fuel pressure sensor from the fuel injector rail and re-lubricate. Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution.
5. Install the fuel pressure sensor to the fuel injector rail and tighten to 33 Y (25 lb ft).

Inspect the fuel injectors for the following conditions:
Damage to the fuel injector connector (1)
Damage to the fuel inlet cone (2)
Damage to the fuel injector body (3)
Damage to the fuel injector tip (4)
Replace the fuel injector if any of the above conditions are found. Do not attempt to repair the fuel injectors.


Note:
The fuel injector bushing (1) is to be installed BEFORE O-ring or backup rings are installed.
Listen for an audible click to confirm correct installation of the fuel injector bushing
Install NEW fuel injector bushing (1) onto injector body. Bushing should seat with a distinct “snap� sound and feel. Ensure bushing is fully seated.


Install the NEW white plastic spacer (3) on the fuel injector first. Install the brown plastic spacer (2) second. Lubricate the NEW O-ring (1) with 5W30 engine oil.


Caution: Ensure the fuel injectors are installed in the correct orientation. Improper orientation of the fuel injectors may result in engine misfire and possible engine damage.
The right side (bank 1) fuel injector wiring harness connectors (1) should point to the rear of the engine. The left side (bank 2) fuel injector wiring harness connectors (2) should point to the front of the engine.


Note:
Do NOT install the Teflon injector tip/bore seals until AFTER the injectors are installed on the fuel rail.
Make sure that the fuel injector connectors are placed in the correct position.
Holding the largest diameter/body of the injector only, indicated by arrow in graphic, insert the injector assembly (1) into the fuel rail. Ensure correct orientation of the electrical connector (2). Clamp the fuel rail in a bench vise USING SOFT JAWS to aid in holding the rail during the installation of the retainer.


Support the fuel injector fuel rail in a vise.
Note: Ensure the retainer is set properly into EN-49247 installer.
The notch (1) should always face forward
The fuel injector to fuel rail retainer should be behind the plate (2)
The tool windows (3) allow for visual alignment
Install the fuel injector to fuel rail retainer to the EN-49247 injector retaining clip installer.



Note: Observe the following steps before installing the fuel injector to fuel rail retainer.
There is a 15-degree angle of rotation (1) with the fuel injector rail flanges relative to the fuel injector rail. Hold the EN-49247 injector retaining clip installer at a similar angle to aid the correct installation of the fuel injector to fuel rail retainer.



When mounting the EN-49247 injector retaining clip installer to the fuel injector rail, the fuel injector to fuel rail retainer should nearly be touching the electrical connector (2). The base of the EN-49247 injector retaining clip installer should be positioned as shown before squeezing the tool to complete the installation.



Hold the injector bushing (2) and fuel injector rail flanges (1) in alignment. Hold the injector assembly firmly against the fuel injector rail to prevent a gap forming between the fuel injector and the fuel injector rail. Install the fuel injector to fuel rail retainer (3).


Caution: Ensure the fuel injector retainer is properly installed. Failure to completely install the retainers may degrade fuel injection system performance or cause system malfunction.
Ensure all 3 fuel injector bushing tabs and fuel rail flanges (1) are properly and completely captured by the fuel injector retainer. Repeat the above steps for the remaining fuel injectors until all the fuel injectors are installed and retained in the fuel injector rail.


Install the fuel injector rail wiring harness (1) to the fuel injector rail.


Note: Do not use any type of lubricant when installing the NEW seals (2) on the fuel injector tip.
Install the long protector (3) of the EN-49245-1 fuel injector seal install/sizer to the fuel injector spray tip covering the first recessed area closest to the tip. Place a NEW seal (2) onto long protector (3) of the EN-49245-1 fuel injector seal install/sizer. Using the pusher (1) of the EN-49245-3 fuel injector seal install/sizer, push the seal (2) into the second recessed area (4) of the fuel injector.
Note: The sizer (5) of the EN-49245-4 fuel injector seal install/sizer is two sided, and either direction will size the seal correctly.
Compress the seal (2) with your fingers. Resize the seal (2) using the sizer (5) of the EN-49245-4 fuel injector seal install/sizer.



Note: Do not use any type of lubricant when installing the NEW seals (2) on the fuel injector tip.
Install the short protector (3) of the EN-49245-2 fuel injector seal install/sizer to the fuel injector tip. Place a NEW seal (2) onto the short protector (3) of EN-49245-2 fuel injector seal install/sizer. Using the pusher (1) of the EN-49245-3 fuel injector seal install/sizer, push the seal (2) into the first recessed area (4) of the fuel injector.
Note: The sizer (5) of the EN-49245-4 fuel injector seal install/sizer is two sided, and either direction will size the seal correctly.
Compress the seal (2) with your fingers. Resize the seal (2) using the sizer (5) of the EN-49245-4 fuel injector seal install/sizer.

[JantzenOKC]

Yeah I was reading the same thing yesterday in alldata. Looks like fun...

I tried data logging and starting it like fabberge said but it just doesn't want to start, all the fuel pressure is bleeding into #1 cylinder. I stopped trying because I really don't want to hydro lock the engine.

So I pulled the intake to try to unplug the injector but you can't get to the connectors without pulling the rail. But I did notice the 3 injectors plug harness runs to the back of the engine and has another plug.(wish I would have known that before hand) so I was able to unplug the harness to the three injectors and turned the key on and still leaking tons of gas into the cylinder. Unless I'm missing something, it has to just be a bad stuck open injector.

[sycraft]

you need the "Torque" app and a Bluetooth ELM to see everything on your phone.

[JantzenOKC]

Yeah that's on my list, not sure that would help me in this situation though. I have a scantool I can see everything on.