DIY Sequential Taillights for approx $20

[Iroc2430]

Could someone please revise this post with all parts needed along with instructions if all the issues are taken care of. This is an awesome post. Too many part swaps to get everything needed in one whack.

Thanks

[brettsimons]

Haha yeah this thread is getting a little cluttered with multiple set-ups and this isn't going to help but for the setup I'm running (the original diagram and parts with the load resistor) I am going to RadioShack tonight so that I can get a pack a 22 ohm resistors. I'm going to put two of those in series and connect that series in parallel with the 8 ohm and 50 ohm resistors that I already have connected in parallel giving me 5.962 ohms which should be just about perfect and hopefully getting rid of the blinker error! I'll get it hooked up tonight and let you guys know how it goes tomorrow.

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[hapisok]

Originally Posted by Highlifeman

That resistor value doesn't matter much, it's just to limit the current going through the MOSFET. It sounds like it may be hooked up to the wrong wires, or hooked up backwards. If it's on the wrong wire going to the bulb then switching the wires going to the "input" and "to light" terminals should make it work.

If anyone has a wiring diagram of the tail lights, it would help me out a ton and I could say which color wires to hook it to. Or I guess I could get out the multimeter tonight and figure it out.

For a P-type, it shouldnt need a resistor between the gate and Vcc. Current cant go into or out of the gate, so a resistor before it doesn't do anything. To use a P-type, just connect the gate to pin 3 on the timer and think of the drain and source as the contacts on a relay, except polarity matters.

so the P-type (NTE2371) now works...had to connect the bulb to drain, and source to Vcc. works flawlessly...now to get the load resistors worked into this. (for this, im going to hold tight until the right ohm value is determined before installing).

thanks for you help on this

[gutterball]

brettsimons, I think I know why your getting the message from your BCM, first of all the two Lights are connected together, so your BCM is looking for 4 amps not 2. When the first inner Bulb comes on, your drawing 2 amps, Try removing the Load Res. and speed up the timing a little more, so the outside light comes on more, before the inside light goes off.

[gutterball]

The colors of the Dir/Brake wire is Grn on the right, Yellow on the left

[brettsimons]

Originally Posted by gutterball

brettsimons, I think I know why your getting the message from your BCM, first of all the two Lights are connected together, so your BCM is looking for 4 amps not 2. When the first inner Bulb comes on, your drawing 2 amps, Try removing the Load Res. and speed up the timing a little more, so the outside light comes on more, before the inside light goes off.

From my understanding, it may be looking for four amps combined but since the circuit only effects the outer bulb by delaying it, I only need two amps to simulate that the one bulb is working as it should be.

[gutterball]

The two lights are tied together, so it see's it as one circuit, (4 amps).Because the circuit is delayed, it is looking for 4 amps, but see's 2

[sjmautoprod]

Right, and, with his load resistor added, it is 4.

[Highlifeman]

Originally Posted by hapisok

so the P-type now works...had to connect the bulb to the drain & ground, and source to Vcc. works flawlessly...now to get the load resistors worked into this.

thanks for you help on this

No problem, I love solving electrical puzzles since I don't really get to do it much at my job as an electrical engineer... Any others I can try? Lol

Just curious, what color wires did you connect to what? For the double MOSFET design, "ground" should have been tapped into a black wire. Cut the yellow/black wire on the left side, and connect the end from the bulb to "to light" and the other end to "input". Do the same on the right side with the green/white wire.

[gutterball]

Originally Posted by sjmautoprod

Right, and, with his load resistor added, it is 4.

The load res is tied to the outside bulb, When the inside comes on it's 2

[Highlifeman]

Originally Posted by gutterball

The load res is tied to the outside bulb, When the inside comes on it's 2

It would be six with the load resistor in place and both lights on.

[gutterball]

Originally Posted by Highlifeman

It would be six with the load resistor in place and both lights on.

That's Correct

[brettsimons]

Originally Posted by Highlifeman

It would be six with the load resistor in place and both lights on.

I thought that the load resistor was placed so that when the blinker gets power, it adds the resistance to simulate the bulb until the relay switched and the bulb came on and then the load resistor would no longer be in the circuit and wouldn't be adding any resistance on top of what the bulb is already producing. But I have never worked with relays before so I'm not sure if that logic is correct.

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[Highlifeman]

Originally Posted by brettsimons

I thought that the load resistor was placed so that when the blinker gets power, it adds the resistance to simulate the bulb until the relay switched and the bulb came on and then the load resistor would no longer be in the circuit and wouldn't be adding any resistance on top of what the bulb is already producing. But I have never worked with relays before so I'm not sure if that logic is correct.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

That's correct if it's connected to the NC terminal on the relay, if it has one. The relay in the pictures you posted, however, didn't have an NC terminal, so I assumed it was put in parallel with the circuit which would cause it to draw 6 A when both lights are on. Where exactly do you have the load resistor connected?