06-20-2011, 01:46 PM | #15 |
Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,002
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$50 isn't too bad. It's just a few more bolts to loosen and tighten but it's invaluable when you don't own a lift. I would say go for it.
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06-20-2011, 02:29 PM | #16 | |
Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,002
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Quote:
I am not sure if production tolerances are tight enough now that they can actually align the suspension before marriage to the body or if this is something they do down the line. Either way, I wouldn't worry about any bushing pre-load from the factory... Last edited by BMR guy; 06-20-2011 at 03:23 PM. |
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06-20-2011, 03:06 PM | #17 | |
Drives: '11 2SS/RS RJT M6 Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Grounded in the 'Shwa
Posts: 478
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Quote:
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06-20-2011, 03:19 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2016 SS w/2SS A8 Blue Velvet Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: 39.793153,-86.238223
Posts: 3,678
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Bruce's guys at Raymond's did mine about a month ago and I could tell an immediate difference in the quality of the ride. Seems like things smoothed way out, not that it was bad after being lowered but it's a better ride all together! Like it was mentioned, this is the best thing to do to right after ride height has been changed to save any excess wear on the bushings. It makes good sense in that those components were set from the factory with those parts you drove off the lot with, now you've changed those parts and the bushings need to be reset, to allow for adjustment in the changes you've created or made. Thanks for the write up, thanks Bruce and Raymond's and JusticePete for providing info on this some time back on another thread.
Oh yea, I told a buddy of mine who lives in Socal with his lowered Element on Teins and when he went back to Island motors who lowered his car back in 2005, they told him they didn't do it but they could but at this point he wouldn't tell a difference but it'll save some wear. The shop they farm out to, to lower cars said they knew of timing but didn't do it but typically and now, include that in the price of their work when dropping cars now.
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06-21-2011, 08:16 AM | #19 | |
Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,002
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Quote:
It's just good practice for any shops that lower vehicles. Shops that just cycle cars in and out and focus on quantity instead of quality will never take the time to do it. This is just one of the things that separates quality shops like Raymonds with your typical in-and-out alignment shop... |
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06-21-2011, 08:35 AM | #20 | |
Drives: 2016 SS w/2SS A8 Blue Velvet Join Date: Dec 2009
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Quote:
But back on topic, I do understand what you're saying. Funny how this way of thinking can transcend over into other areas. Damn shame!
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06-21-2011, 11:00 AM | #21 |
:chevy:
Drives: 2LT/RS Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 13,033
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went to get my car timed an aligned yesterday. They had the car up timed the front bushing, started on the rears, then came to me and said they were going to charge an extra 100 because my car was way out of specs. This would be $250 for an alignment! So they stopped as I refused to pay and gave me my car back with damage on all four rims...basterds. Going to another shop today, hope these guys dont try to rip me off either
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06-21-2011, 02:25 PM | #22 |
:chevy:
Drives: 2LT/RS Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 13,033
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so it all worked out. The shop yesterday timed my front bushings, not sure if they did the rears. Got that done for free because of the incident, went to another shop and got the car aligned and I can tell the difference since getting the bushings reclocked, or atleast the fronts were done for sure. When going over bumps on the highway, I dont have that floating or springing feeling anymore. Thanks for this thread, it literally helped out alot and made my ride so much better!
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06-21-2011, 03:22 PM | #23 | |
Drives: 2016 SS w/2SS A8 Blue Velvet Join Date: Dec 2009
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Quote:
Also who ever did the work, I'd ask them if they did in fact time the rears, that's like getting a front end alignment but not having the rear wheels aligned as well. Just saying, you want it right and all of it to work in unison.
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06-22-2011, 12:56 PM | #24 |
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Location: Tampa, FL
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10-15-2011, 07:07 AM | #25 |
NOW CAMMED & SUPERCHARGED
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I had shop do it allignment and reclock 108 bucks car drives better than it ever has and new cradle and diff bushings made a huge difference!
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10-16-2011, 09:09 PM | #26 |
Drives: 2009 Pontiac G8 Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 82
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Good info! Is this a sticky yet?
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10-25-2011, 08:40 AM | #27 | |
Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,002
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Quote:
To a certain extent, bushing pre-load is mainly an OE bushing problem. In factory bushings the inner steel sleeve of the bushing is bonded to the rubber bushing itself. This creates a certain amount of bind anytime the suspension moves up or down. BMR bushings are all designed with floating inner sleeves that are lubricated through channels designed into our bushings. A few pumps with a grease gun and the sleeve rotates bind-free. These channels also run outward to the thrust surface of the bushing to keep these areas lubed as well. With no bind in the bushing, the bolts can be tightened with the suspension in any position. |
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10-25-2011, 01:43 PM | #28 |
Drives: '10 Camaro LS3 2SS/RS, 1968 Nova Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: California
Posts: 972
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I just did alot of suspension work to my car like cradle bushing, differential, radius rod, sway bars, trailing arms, toe rods... But i still have stock shocks and springs... Do i have to time my bushings also or it just for lowered vehicles???
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