Looking to make a third gen racer

[Obsessive Camaro Disorder]

Originally Posted by crc91

The goal right off that bat isn't to make a 700 hp monster or anything it's just getting the 5.3/t56 in the car and have it running good. I want to replace the little things and upgrade where i can. I've been viewing threads on third gen.org just haven't had time I sign up and become a member yet. I just want to get an idea of what I'm in for. From what I have gathered so far hawks third gen is going to be a major help in the swap. Now what is a better starting platform the iroc or the z/28?

Sorry, haven't been on here in a while. Life has gotten very busy lately. I get what your saying, and it's a great idea. Thirdgens by weight and design are some of the best camaros. I say best DESIGN because the way they are build was WEAK!! 300hp is a monster to a stock thirdgen. The body is flimsy, the 10 bolt is weak (right up through '02) and now they are all 23+ years old!! The way GM designed them was great, they just should have built them stronger and with stronger parts. That is why I'm pushing you so hard to start other places in the car. Beef up the frame with some subframe connectors, a wonder bar, and a strut tower brace. Replace the 23+ year old bushings with new rubber (rubber doesn't last 23+ years. It may be in one piece but it's not the quality it was new or needs to be for racing). Poly is ok, just don't use it in the rear. Poly doesn't act right with the rear suspension design and causes snap oversteer. Global West Del-a-lums are probably the best options out there for front a arm bushings. If you street the car, UMI roto joints in the rear, but if track only use rod ends in the rear. I can give you much more part specific advice if you like.

For a starting platform is difficult, because like i said in my first post, the better platform you start with, you'll be further ahead at the start, but it will also cost you more. There are so many options for you here its hard to say cause each option has a plus. Say you get a 1LE Z28 or IROC (This will be the most expensive starting platform) and swap in the ls/t56, You will have one mean track car and it will only get better with mods. Also, why buy a collectors item to cut it up into a race car? If you start one step down with a Non 1LE Z28 or IROC, you will save a little coin but the drivetrains were the biggest perks to these models and you are going to replace that right away so does that matter? Suspension wise you could get the same suspension in a base model with the weaker 305tbi and maybe the v6 too. Brakes were the same too, unless you got the rear disc brake option. All that really changed in a thirdgen between an IROC/Z28 and a base model was engine, rear diff (gears and posi, same housing), springs(maybe struts and shocks), and sway bars. All things you'll change anyway. IROCs and Z28s had to perform so they only came with performance goodies. You could get most of the goodies in a RS and get the same handling but you couldn't get the 36/24 sway bars or the engines.

I would say, if your first mod is going to be a LS/t56 swap, get a late 80's early 90's RS with all the Z28 suspension and 16x8 wheels like I have. An RS with the Z28 suspension will be cheaper, and have the same suspension and brakes (except maybe the rear drums but not all Z28's and IROCs had rear discs either, it was an option J65). Many RS will have lower spring options, smaller sway bars, and an open 3.08 rear diff but there are cars out there with the higher options.

Do your research on what suspension options were and go from there. Example: 36mm front/24mm rear are the biggest sway bars a thirdgen came with. Not all IROC/Z28s got these. They say you can't buy a better sway bar than those, aftermarkets are only lighter, not stronger. My RS has 34mm front and a 21mm rear. The 34mm front is almost as strong as the 36mm but I make up for it with stiffer springs. In the rear, there isn't a best sway bar for everyone. Some of the fastest guys run a 19mm from a v6, I've seen a couple guys remove the rear sway bar and compensate with stiffer rear springs. Rule of thumb is if the rear is loose/oversteer, you need a smaller rear bar.

Hope this helps. BTW, hoping to start my LS1/t56 swap next month. Got to get the list of home projects knocked down first with the warm weather finally arriving. CAN'T WAIT!!! AutoX starts May 23, hope I have it done on time!

Just remembered, look into a Imporved racing baffle for the oil pan in your LS if your going to autoX/road race it. LS have oiling troubles in corners in stock form. Or a dry sump conversion!

[woodside783]

thanks for all the help

[crc91]

Lotta good info here guys thanks. I think the funds are finally coming together so that I can buy my project! Have t decided wether or not I'm going to but the engine/transmission first or the car itself. I'm looking to spend around 3.5k for both. Then I'll start collecting the little things. I heard it'd be cheaper and better to just go with a v6 model over a v8? Any truth to that? Seems the v8 would be the safer bet to me am I wrong?

[Obsessive Camaro Disorder]

Originally Posted by crc91

Lotta good info here guys thanks. I think the funds are finally coming together so that I can buy my project! Have t decided wether or not I'm going to but the engine/transmission first or the car itself. I'm looking to spend around 3.5k for both. Then I'll start collecting the little things. I heard it'd be cheaper and better to just go with a v6 model over a v8? Any truth to that? Seems the v8 would be the safer bet to me am I wrong?

If your going to drive (or trailer) it home and pull the engine and trans out, v6 or v8 doesn't really matter, the v6 will probably be cheaper. If your going to use an LS, it takes custom frame side motor mounts and both 4L60E and T56 trans take a custom crossmember so v6 or v8 car really doesn't matter. Pretty sure either one will install the same. I would just make sure you will be able to insure the v6 car for it's value as an LS swapped car. You don't want to finish the swap, get to the end of the block, get t-boned and get a $1500 check from the insurance company for your car you have $5000 in.

The v6 and 305tbi harnesses are easier to wire with the LS harness than a TPI harness. I would try to get the same trans as you will use with the LS, it will also be easier. Pedal mounts and holes for shifters will require less work.

[Speedfreak391]

If you have any questions on doing the ls/t56 swap just ask. I have done it in my 3rd gen and there are some tricks that not every one knows about.
for cheaper options. If you have any fabrication skills st all you can save your self lots of money.