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#15 |
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Winners find a way
Drives: 2010 2LT/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,137
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I too am mastering my wash/care technique BEFORE I tackle my paint resto.
The adams wash system is tops in my book. I don't have a foam gun yet but my car never sees rain. I tried the 2 bucket system but was always used to rinsing off the wash pad with a hose (both sides)before putting it back in the soap bucket, This works well for ME as I can see any debris rinse off it. I believe the goal is achieved. I then use the drying towels which I find work well after you wring them out. I touch up drying with a second towel and wash both by hanging them over a lawn chair and hosing them out well. A good air dry and they are ready for next time. When they get dirty enough that they don't rinse clean, off they go to the washer with a little woolite and hung to dry. I have grown to like and trust the adams products, and I'm about as picky as they come (next to gramps...lol) |
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#16 | ||
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"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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Quote:
I don't have any issue with using a bucket of soap later but the longer it sits, the more diluted the soap becomes and that kills the effectiveness of your soap. The question about washing the wash pad is one that comes up often. Personally, I never have had to wash my wash pad because the only thing they touch is paint. They saty clean and get clean simply by the act of washing my car. If you are washing the wheels and tires, undercarriage and who know what else with them, then they are going to get dirty. That I don't do and thus, my pads never require washing. Use them on the paint ONLY. Quote:
__________________
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
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#17 | |
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Winners find a way
Drives: 2010 2LT/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,137
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Quote:
Really JM? I do have the 2B system and tried it a couple of times but I believe I get more debris off the wash pad by hosing it down on both sides than just dipping it and scraping it across the grate... I occasionally can see some small particles rinse off, where I can't see that in the rinse bucket. I know my method may be a HUGE water waster. Next wash, I'll rinse it over a bucket to see just how wasteful. It might be about the same or close to 5 gal. A foam gun is on my list for this month, but remember, my car really doesn't get "dirty". I wash it because I'm not sold on the drywash yet, and I enjoy doing it. |
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#18 |
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"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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Again, it's your car to do it the way that pleases you. However, I will only pass on what I have learned over the years I've spent experimenting with everything that I could get my hands on and try. Since my car is navy blue, anything I do wrong will show up on the paint. With that in mind, I have finally come up with a method that I can guarantee won't scratch your paint if done correctly. That is the only method that I will sign off on. It is not for everyone as everyone doesn't have the time that I have to invest in the care of their vehicle. But for those who do, I see flawless paint in their future. By flawless, this is what I mean as I actually look at my paint (and anyone else paint) this close:
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__________________
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
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#19 |
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Winners find a way
Drives: 2010 2LT/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,137
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I FULLY understand where you're coming from JM, Right now my paint looks a little better than your photo of the blue car, that's how I picked it up.
It was the light test that revealed it for me too. I'll give the 2B system another shot as time is not my enemy when it comes to caring for this particular car, I just felt like the hose down method was more effective than a dip and a scrape.... BTW, I clayed the top of a fender last weekend. I put a lot of muscle into it and kept retesting it with a baggie. I had to do about 4 or 5 passes til it passed, does that sound about right? I did my mazda last year and it was much easier. |
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#20 |
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"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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And there lies the whole problem with your question. The answer will vary from car to car. Just as your Mazda was easier to do, the next car might be hell to do. You'll never know until you get started. That's why I apply the amount of pressure I do. I get tired of stopping, checking, do it again, stop and checking, etc... I want to get claying done in one fell swoop so that I can move on. I hate claying, but I know how much it does for the final shine.
I have experienced the same headache you have with claying so I can easily say that it happens.
__________________
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
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#21 |
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Winners find a way
Drives: 2010 2LT/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,137
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As usual, your advice is golden, thanks JM
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#22 | |
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Quote:
Last edited by redirish; 09-14-2010 at 06:37 PM. |
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#23 | |
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Winners find a way
Drives: 2010 2LT/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,137
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Quote:
LOL, I put a good bit of Navy muscle into it, this car must be worse than most.... |
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#24 |
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"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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I usually take both pads (remember, I use two) to the rinse bucket, stick the hose into the bucket and turn it on. I then start squeezing and dunking the wash pad over and over until the water running out of the bucket run clear. And yes, you can wash the pads as you would your microfiber towels.
__________________
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
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