Whats the true break in procedure ? - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Russell James · 10-06-2010, 04:54 PM

Not every 500, just the first 500. I put a magnetic drain plug in mine at 5 miles. At 500, the magnet was covered in a fuzzball of metal shavings.
Every Vette and 4th Gen F body I've bought, I've done and seen the same thing.

Not to mention a neighbor of mine who is a powertrain engineer and tells me about the low mileage failed lifters he has inspected... and root caused as a sticking plunger due to metallic break in debris. Just my opinion, but I like to get that junk out of there after break in. Mass produced engines tend to be quite dirty and material shedding during break in. My neighbor has also seen plenty of low mileage AFM truck engines where the AFM system starts going haywire with lifters knocking and cylinders miss firing.... root caused as the AFM oil manifold screen plugged with debris.

Sure doesn't hurt anything to change that break in oil at 500. And in your drain pan, it will probably look like your mining for gold and silver with all the small shiny bits you will see.

Orange Krate · 11-24-2010, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell James

Not every 500, just the first 500. I put a magnetic drain plug in mine at 5 miles. At 500, the magnet was covered in a fuzzball of metal shavings.
Every Vette and 4th Gen F body I've bought, I've done and seen the same thing.

Not to mention a neighbor of mine who is a powertrain engineer and tells me about the low mileage failed lifters he has inspected... and root caused as a sticking plunger due to metallic break in debris. Just my opinion, but I like to get that junk out of there after break in. Mass produced engines tend to be quite dirty and material shedding during break in. My neighbor has also seen plenty of low mileage AFM truck engines where the AFM system starts going haywire with lifters knocking and cylinders miss firing.... root caused as the AFM oil manifold screen plugged with debris.

Sure doesn't hurt anything to change that break in oil at 500. And in your drain pan, it will probably look like your mining for gold and silver with all the small shiny bits you will see.

Reading up on the break in process and draining fluids etc. Question for the room... What is the best way to get those little metal fuzzies off the bottom of the pan if the magnet plug doesnt get it all, and just short of pulling a pan to clean it out? Obviously that doesn't make sense on a new warranty car.

Has anyone created a cheat sheet that has what fluids/brands to replace the OEM with after the break in? Or is it a good idea just to drain the fluids from day one and put the new stuff in? I don't mind changing fluids for the RIGHT reason but don't want to short change the car either.

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving all!

PS - My new Orange Krate was born 11/22 and will soon leave Bay Status and come home to papa!!! LOL I am so excited I could...well nevermind.

wrbear · 11-24-2010, 11:10 PM

My way of thinking. The owners manual has guidelines for the first 1500 miles. Read it then you be the judge you have to sleep at night.

2010 SSRS · 11-24-2010, 11:33 PM

pedal to the floor as you leave the dealership lot

phxdiver · 11-25-2010, 08:47 AM

My break-in period was finished 'bout the same time as I hung up on the Onstar chick that setup my account....

SnowStorm · 11-27-2010, 07:06 AM

Where can I get one of those magnetic drain plugs? Do they sell them at places like Autozone?

CC Performance · 11-27-2010, 10:43 AM

modern engines do not really need a break in period. The rings will seat in the first 10 minutes the engine is running and the material they use for valve springs and such does not need the heat cycling of old. It will make more power as it get more miles on it simply due to wear.

jehartley · 11-27-2010, 05:59 PM

The true break-in procedure is the one given to you in your owners manual.

Deej2011 · 11-28-2010, 09:14 AM

Didn't follow any break-in period. Changed oil at 4K, and I can tell y'all this, I drive 65 miles to/from work 5 days a week and this is the first time a tank of gas has lasted me all week, Just passed 5500 miles. WooHoo!

PAUL SS · 11-28-2010, 01:02 PM

At 1600 miles I had 326 rwhp basically driving like you described. You better start laying into it.

BowlingSS · 12-07-2010, 02:19 PM

I am going to change my fluids this weekend. I will have 400-500 miles on it.

Break-In- don't need no stinking break-in.

Bill

camaro2009 · 12-16-2010, 11:27 PM

I almost completely forgot about the break in procedure on a new vehicle. Hadnt bought one in 7 years. Unless you count the Harley in '06. But man, I sure am glad I stumbled onto this one. And tomorrow, im gonna pick up some RP Max Gear , and RP Synchromax.
My baby has just eclipsed 400+ miles, Its time to give her an enima.

jmaryt · 12-17-2010, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAB

Iv heard so much from diffrent people. Basically iv just figured it's a 2011 gm and I think they know how to make a relible motor? Iv been keeping it under 4k rpm with occasional spurts of power? I have 70 miles what do y'all think ?

vary speeds for the first 1500 miles,keep it under 4000 r.p.m,and do not operate at one constant speed....easy on the brakes first 200 miles.

BAWLZ SS · 12-17-2010, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shardik2SS

I broke mine in aggressively. Drive it like you stole it!!

agree LOL

11-24-2010, 11:33 PM	#18
2010 SSRS Drives: 3 V8 Camaros Join Date: May 2009 Location: The Ocean State Posts: 111,186 View My Garage	pedal to the floor as you leave the dealership lot __________________ Jannetty Racing JRE Street Package

11-25-2010, 08:47 AM	#19
phxdiver Drives: 2011 SS/RS IBM 6M Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Phoenix Posts: 14	My break-in period was finished 'bout the same time as I hung up on the Onstar chick that setup my account.... __________________

11-27-2010, 07:06 AM	#20
SnowStorm Jump in Drives: 2011 1SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Posts: 122	Where can I get one of those magnetic drain plugs? Do they sell them at places like Autozone? __________________

11-28-2010, 01:02 PM	#24
PAUL SS The Mark of Excellence Drives: 2010 ABM 1SS RS LS3 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Smallest State in the Union Posts: 8,688 View My Garage	At 1600 miles I had 326 rwhp basically driving like you described. You better start laying into it. __________________ BMR, CAI, DynoMax, Elite Eng., Hurst, Jannetty, Clear Image Headers & Hi Flow cats, Jet Hot, LSR, TSW, VMax, Vredestein

12-16-2010, 11:27 PM	#26
camaro2009 camaro2009 Drives: 2013 ZL-1 AGM 6M #0369 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Missouri,Hume Posts: 101 View My Garage	I almost completely forgot about the break in procedure on a new vehicle. Hadnt bought one in 7 years. Unless you count the Harley in '06. But man, I sure am glad I stumbled onto this one. And tomorrow, im gonna pick up some RP Max Gear , and RP Synchromax. My baby has just eclipsed 400+ miles, Its time to give her an enima. __________________ 2013 Camaro ZL-1 AGM M6 2010 Camaro 2SS CGM with SIM stripes(Traded) 2007 Chevy Duramax Dually LBCC 1974 Camaro Type LT 1995 Camaro Plum V-6 Auto 80k original miles Traded the '10 SS for the BAD ASS 2013 ZL-1 AGM ,M-6 Once again the thanks go out to my wonderful wife and a chance encounter while servicing my Duramax!! Destiny......nope...FATE

10-06-2010, 04:54 PM	#15
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	Not every 500, just the first 500. I put a magnetic drain plug in mine at 5 miles. At 500, the magnet was covered in a fuzzball of metal shavings. Every Vette and 4th Gen F body I've bought, I've done and seen the same thing. Not to mention a neighbor of mine who is a powertrain engineer and tells me about the low mileage failed lifters he has inspected... and root caused as a sticking plunger due to metallic break in debris. Just my opinion, but I like to get that junk out of there after break in. Mass produced engines tend to be quite dirty and material shedding during break in. My neighbor has also seen plenty of low mileage AFM truck engines where the AFM system starts going haywire with lifters knocking and cylinders miss firing.... root caused as the AFM oil manifold screen plugged with debris. Sure doesn't hurt anything to change that break in oil at 500. And in your drain pan, it will probably look like your mining for gold and silver with all the small shiny bits you will see.

11-24-2010, 11:10 PM	#17
wrbear Banned Drives: 2010, 2SS, IOM/CGM Stripes, 4/24/10 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Houston,TX Posts: 840	My way of thinking. The owners manual has guidelines for the first 1500 miles. Read it then you be the judge you have to sleep at night.

11-27-2010, 10:43 AM	#21
CC Performance Account Suspended Drives: 99 Camaro SS, 79 z28, 70 GTX Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: ST Helens, OR Posts: 1,759	modern engines do not really need a break in period. The rings will seat in the first 10 minutes the engine is running and the material they use for valve springs and such does not need the heat cycling of old. It will make more power as it get more miles on it simply due to wear.

11-27-2010, 05:59 PM	#22
jehartley Drives: Red LT1 & Silver LS3 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Maine Posts: 221	The true break-in procedure is the one given to you in your owners manual.

11-28-2010, 09:14 AM	#23
Deej2011 Emerald Coast Camaros Drives: 2011 CGM Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Crestview, FL Posts: 39	Didn't follow any break-in period. Changed oil at 4K, and I can tell y'all this, I drive 65 miles to/from work 5 days a week and this is the first time a tank of gas has lasted me all week, Just passed 5500 miles. WooHoo!

12-07-2010, 02:19 PM	#25
BowlingSS Camaro Owner Since 1987 Drives: 2011 2SS/RS L99 RJT Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Lawrenceville, GA Posts: 2,185	I am going to change my fluids this weekend. I will have 400-500 miles on it. Break-In- don't need no stinking break-in. Bill

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