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#15 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Maggie blown LS3 vette Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: SE TX
Posts: 1,490
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Quote:
The only time I go with a heavier oil is when the motor has big miles. Several or my GM trucks are now run on 15w40 oil after 200K miles. No way would I run a heavier oil on a newer motor. Even in our lovely 100+ degree heat. My daily driver GMC is supercharged with a forged motor. The guy that did the machine work and set up the clearances recommended 15w50. Guess what I run in that one. The well established synthetics are all pretty good in my book. I'd pick one that's readily available and you're comfortable with and run it at the recommended weight. |
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#16 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS IBM Black Polished Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,106
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I was having a similar conversation the other day with a friend of mine that just got a 427. Winter driving is not an issue so the basis of my suggestion was for regular mild to warm temp driving. I explained that I balanced out my oil with consumption. What I ended up with was 10 w 40. 5w30 would go away very quickly to the tune of 1 qt in 750 miles but a slightly thicker oil did not. My theory is that it was related to ring and swipe ability and oil return thru the pistons. Also a thinner oil would not sustain oil pressure as high once engine was hot. Thicker oil will lower your HP, So you obviosly want to run as thin as you can but balance it with the fore mentioned issues.
Amsoil is clearly the best in testing but hard to find. Royal Purple performs well but can cause cat damage unless you find and use the high zinc mixture available. Schaffers is also a very high quallity oil that resists breakdown but like amsoil is hard to find. Mobil 1 sold out and has gone cheaper in order to get in the door at KMarts and is not what it used to be in my opinion. Cut oldmotorhead a little slack.. He was being himself and I am sure was chuckling when he wrote it as did I when I read it.. Congrats on the build.. Extreme permagrin is a good thing. Oh and a disclaimer.. because you were not specific. If you have a oil line to a centrifical blower then you need to defer to manufacturer suggested oil for them.. Some use oil from your pan for lubrication as opposed to self contained.
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418 Stroker, 621RWHP 648 lbs TORQUE Built by Laramie GM Auto Center Tuned by Nick at Mac Autosport. EForce SC, 2 3/4pulley,LPE dual fuel pump, JRE Twin fuel rail upgrade, posi clutch kit, RX oilcatch can and breather, Callies Compstar crankshaft and rods, Racing bearings, CP -13.8 race pistons, steel rings, Comp Cams X6 blower cam, Springs, HD timing chain and tensioner, Doug Thorley Tri Y LT headers, 89.7lb injectors, RPM rollbar, DSS1400 shafts, Simpson 5 pt harness, BMR Toe rods and trailing arms, led lights, RPM input and output shafts
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#17 | |
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Banned
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well guess what i pretty much agree with u...but i wanted to know what u, and every1 else thinks is the "best" syn. This is pretty much conjecture, but are some oil companies that have done some type of tests. But thank you for the input. |
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#18 | |
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Banned
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#19 |
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Mobile 1 10w30...that's what Ted at JRE told me to put in it so that's what I'm gonna do!
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#20 |
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Banned
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#21 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 ZL1 A10 Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Dubai
Posts: 1,250
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What about 15w40 it is the only Royal Purple wieght that i can find overhere ?
usualy using 20w50 ![]() Ahmad
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2017 ZL1 A10 SW (SOLD)
Whipple 2.9 with 3.2 Pulley, Weapon-X Stage 3 Cam, FIICHILLER ,LG Motorsports LT, Borla S type, ROTFAB Big Gulp, Big 3 Reservoir Glassskinz rear window valance . 2012 ZL1 A6 (SOLD) Forged 376 CI, LSA HeartBeat, Mast Medium Bore Heads & JDP ZLR Cam, ARH LT , MagnaFlow Resonated X + Borla Atak Catback, ADM 102mm Snout, CAI, NW102MM TB, ID850, Fore Triple Fuel Pump, MSD Wire's, Moroso CC. Alky Control, FIICHILLER. |
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#22 | |
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Banned
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![]() ps : I have also hearsd and red many bad things about RP ....I would stay away from them.....I am no expert but I listen to folks. The next best thing besides amsoil seems to be redline then mobil1 |
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#23 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 ZL1 A10 Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Dubai
Posts: 1,250
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It gets realy hot overhere +40C in summer & the lowest in winter is 10C maybe for 3 months only,we have a long hot season & a short cold weather season.
Ahmad Quote:
__________________
2017 ZL1 A10 SW (SOLD)
Whipple 2.9 with 3.2 Pulley, Weapon-X Stage 3 Cam, FIICHILLER ,LG Motorsports LT, Borla S type, ROTFAB Big Gulp, Big 3 Reservoir Glassskinz rear window valance . 2012 ZL1 A6 (SOLD) Forged 376 CI, LSA HeartBeat, Mast Medium Bore Heads & JDP ZLR Cam, ARH LT , MagnaFlow Resonated X + Borla Atak Catback, ADM 102mm Snout, CAI, NW102MM TB, ID850, Fore Triple Fuel Pump, MSD Wire's, Moroso CC. Alky Control, FIICHILLER. |
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#24 |
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Banned
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well then are good i suppose...there are so many variables. But i look at it like this. Run the least viscous oil for the job, from the best oil brand. this is my quest....
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#25 |
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I have always used Mobile 1. There are a few companies out there producing some products that are superior. However, there is not enough improvement to make it worth the time, effort and additional expense to use their product regularly as it pertains to driving often on the street or having considerable miles put on the vehicle per year.
The thing about the viscosity of oil. If you really want to understand the need for oil, as well as, adequate fuel flow. Take the time to learn a little about general hydrolics. Flow is inversely related to preasure. So, those that see more oil preasure have a false sense that the engine is receiving better lubrication, as seen with thicker oils, when it could be the opposite. Old Motorhead has it right. What you need is volume and flow, between the fricton surfaces and this is best accomplished with a lighter viscosity lubricant. The clearance in a GM built engine is the same regardless, within a certain tolerance, therefore the oil flow requirement is the same. Best acheived with 5W30. If GM, in all their testing and hours of RD recommend it. It`s probobly a good bet not to try and out smart them. As for aftermarket engine buiders. Know one knows the clearance better than the guy who checks it five times over and over. Most nitrous and FI engines have additional clearance, therefore there is room for more and perhaps thicker oil to achaieve greater surface tension between the friction surfaces. Opinion officially expressed. Now, drive it hard and break it. You`ll have more fun that way. Change the oil and don`t worry about it. It`ll be the most fun in the world! |
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#26 |
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user bann'd
Drives: Chevy SS Join Date: May 2009
Location: Hepcat City
Posts: 1,463
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Out of curiousity, does anybody know what weight of oil GM recommends for the LSA/LS9 engine?
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![]() Chantilly Lace, the 2011 Rockabilly Jukebox..ADM built..617rwhp, geared A6. |
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#27 | |
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#28 | |
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Drives: Anything I want Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DfW - Texas
Posts: 5,407
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Every engine that has had my hands on it leaves running 15w-50 in it,I started this 9 years ago when John Lingenfelter told me that is what they put in all their builds. |
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