Going sideways! - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

JDP Sales · 12-26-2014, 05:33 PM

Here are the main parts you need to address to cure wheel hop and keep the rear end in line under load:

Trailing arms
Outer trailing arm bushings
Toe links
Subframe bushings
Upper control arm bushings

Beyond that, a good set of sway bars and FE4 update would be a nice upgrade.

Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

camarossdusk · 12-26-2014, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quicksilver 1LE

What he just listed. I hit up Tyler on this forum and he suggested the same suspicion parts to correct mine. I have Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires and having 576rwhp/540rwtrq breaks the tires loose in first through third.

I did too tyler helped me a lot, with those same parts listed.

forklord · 12-28-2014, 12:37 AM

I have all those mods and a few more at an estimated ~650ish WHP. I cant break loose unless I floor it while reving the piss out of it/dump the clutch or a sharp turn, etc. that's in decent warm temps tho. when its 50 or below out I break loose all the time

camarossdusk · 12-28-2014, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forklord

I have all those mods and a few more at an estimated ~650ish WHP. I cant break loose unless I floor it while reving the piss out of it/dump the clutch or a sharp turn, etc. that's in decent warm temps tho. when its 50 or below out I break loose all the time

same here it will break loose but not all over the road like before, its more of controlled tire spin, compared to before the suspension upgrades.

Snidely Whiplash · 12-28-2014, 10:49 PM

At least you know your posi unit is good enough for stock tires. Going sideways means you're spinning both tires, allowing the car to go sideways.

Roads have crowns in them to drain off the rain. "Getting on the gas" means your not on a track, but on a road with a crown. Your backend sliding to the shoulder of the lane you're in means everything works.

12-28-2014, 12:37 AM	#17
forklord Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 800	I have all those mods and a few more at an estimated ~650ish WHP. I cant break loose unless I floor it while reving the piss out of it/dump the clutch or a sharp turn, etc. that's in decent warm temps tho. when its 50 or below out I break loose all the time __________________ 2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad

12-28-2014, 10:49 PM	#19
Snidely Whiplash Fight Crime, Drive Armed Drives: '14 2SS Yelo Maro, HD collection Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: NRH, TX Posts: 985	At least you know your posi unit is good enough for stock tires. Going sideways means you're spinning both tires, allowing the car to go sideways. Roads have crowns in them to drain off the rain. "Getting on the gas" means your not on a track, but on a road with a crown. Your backend sliding to the shoulder of the lane you're in means everything works. __________________ Bring back Sunoco 260 to the local station. Some folks STILL drive L-88s and need the good gas.

12-26-2014, 05:33 PM	#15
JDP Sales Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 9,621	Here are the main parts you need to address to cure wheel hop and keep the rear end in line under load: Trailing arms Outer trailing arm bushings Toe links Subframe bushings Upper control arm bushings Beyond that, a good set of sway bars and FE4 update would be a nice upgrade. Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007