Road Race/Autocross Alignment Setup Thread

[JusticePete]

Nice setup.

As you probably know, Red Ranger owns Whiteline. When I prototyped the 5th Gen Camaro bars here in the USA, I was going to use Red Ranger to make my sway bars. They did not have the ability to bend the 32mm bar and were adamant the setup was wrong. That is when I started making my sway bars in the USA. I suggest you replace your rear sway bar with a hollow 35mm or my solid 32mm to reduce the understeer built into that setup. You will love a bigger rear bar.

Using castor locks from several companies or my extended range eccentrics, you can get another degree of caster into your setup.

You will have to check clearance with you wheels and tires, but you may be able to relieve the top front strut adjustment slot and get another 1/2 degree of negative camber. Just make sure you have an ordinary umber 2 lead pencil of clearance between the strut / spring seat / coil an the tire sidewall at the closest point of contact.

[Cornercarver]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Nice setup.

As you probably know, Red Ranger owns Whiteline. When I prototyped the 5th Gen Camaro bars here in the USA, I was going to use Red Ranger to make my sway bars. They did not have the ability to bend the 32mm bar and were adamant the setup was wrong. That is when I started making my sway bars in the USA. I suggest you replace your rear sway bar with a hollow 35mm or my solid 32mm to reduce the understeer built into that setup. You will love a bigger rear bar.

Using castor locks from several companies or my extended range eccentrics, you can get another degree of caster into your setup.

You will have to check clearance with you wheels and tires, but you may be able to relieve the top front strut adjustment slot and get another 1/2 degree of negative camber. Just make sure you have an ordinary umber 2 lead pencil of clearance between the strut / spring seat / coil an the tire sidewall at the closest point of contact.

Makes sense. I was having a problem putting power down from both rear wheels with the bar on the stiff setting. I'm thinking its time for a Torsen diff. Then I can put it back to stiff or change it

I have actually been planning to remove the caster bolts and install a solid lock like what you have on your site. Or I may just weld washers on where I want them.

I've read in the past that I need to get as much degrees of caster as I have in SAI which is around 10° currently. Not sure if this is the case with a strut suspension but the reasoning that was laid out seems to fit.

Currently the back of my knuckles are touching the struts. I would need to grind the back of the knuckle to get more camber. You and I talked about camber plates on FB a while back. I still just haven't set the money aside for them.

I have the task of trying to keep up with a 3200# sn95 mustang with a ton of race car parts and a good driver this year at SCCA nationals and I'm hoping that camber plates, torsen and a rear bar adjustment will give me a small chance of keeping up in September.

[JusticePete]

SAI plates will help with SAI nd allow you to hit your camber numbers.

If you do a moderate burn out, are the stripes evenly colored?

[Cornercarver]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

SAI plates will help with SAI nd allow you to hit your camber numbers.

If you do a moderate burn out, are the stripes evenly colored?

Yes rear leaves evenly colored black marks. Problem is it wears the outside of the tires quite a bit more than the inside. Front is much worse than back but they both do it. The car is autocrossed more than anything. Otherwise it's usually just siting in the driveway. That wear was on 305x20" Hankook R-S3's. I haven't used a whole set of the Rivals yet so I can't verify that these wear the same. Nothing else has changed so I'm sure it still wears unevenly.

My assumption is that the noticeably uneven wear is showing me that I don't have optimal tore contact in the front or rear. I was hoping camber plates and a little more camber in the back would help

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Cornercarver

Yes rear leaves evenly colored black marks. Problem is it wears the outside of the tires quite a bit more than the inside. Front is much worse than back but they both do it. The car is autocrossed more than anything. Otherwise it's usually just siting in the driveway. That wear was on 305x20" Hankook R-S3's. I haven't used a whole set of the Rivals yet so I can't verify that these wear the same. Nothing else has changed so I'm sure it still wears unevenly.

My assumption is that the noticeably uneven wear is showing me that I don't have optimal tore contact in the front or rear. I was hoping camber plates and a little more camber in the back would help

The more aggressive track alignments that help you corner better will eat the tires in straight line use. Adding more front and rear camber will improve cornering, but continue to wear the inside shoulders even more

[Cornercarver]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

The more aggressive track alignments that help you corner better will eat the tires in straight line use. Adding more front and rear camber will improve cornering, but continue to wear the inside shoulders even more

Exactly what I'm after. It's not much of a street car these days and I have numerous sets of wheels and tires. I'm after all out cornering performance and nothing less. Just want to get as much out of it as possible. I've read that most cars running struts need around 3.5° Static camber

What do you think is optimal caster? I was thinking I need to get into the 8°+ range. Problem is getting all the caster with the front control arm bolt it takes away from my available camber because it pulls the bottom of the knuckle closer to the car. Making my need for camber plates even more apparent.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Cornercarver

Exactly what I'm after. It's not much of a street car these days and I have numerous sets of wheels and tires. I'm after all out cornering performance and nothing less. Just want to get as much out of it as possible. I've read that most cars running struts need around 3.5° Static camber

What do you think is optimal caster? I was thinking I need to get into the 8°+ range. Problem is getting all the caster with the front control arm bolt it takes away from my available camber because it pulls the bottom of the knuckle closer to the car. Making my need for camber plates even more apparent.

-2.5 seems to be about right for the 5th Gen.

SAI is even better than caster. Your idea to weld in a plate will work well. Are you a skilled welder or would you have that done?

[Cornercarver]

I would do it. I have a lift and have a ton of welding experience. Doesn't scare me at all. That's part of why I talked to you on FB about those weld on plates that lower the car 30mm. I wouldn't be afraid to cut the top of the tower off and replace it if there is real gain to be had. Really if 2.5 is my target I'm sure bolt on plates should get me there

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Cornercarver

I would do it. I have a lift and have a ton of welding experience. Doesn't scare me at all. That's part of why I talked to you on FB about those weld on plates that lower the car 30mm. I wouldn't be afraid to cut the top of the tower off and replace it if there is real gain to be had. Really if 2.5 is my target I'm sure bolt on plates should get me there

The weld in plates would be PERFECT

[Lonewolf583]

Originally Posted by Cornercarver

I've been running: (street tires though)

-2° front camber
-1° rear camber
6.5° caster is all I can get with caster adjusters
0 toe front and 1/16 toe in on rear
335 Rival S's on 18x12's

It works very well with my current setup. But front end push is always the most noticeable issue I have at higher speed stuff. Looking at getting some camber plates and moving to around 3° in the front and 1.5° rear.

This might be out of scope for this thread but that spoiler you have in your sig is pretty sizeable. What is that? 6-7"? Depending on what's being considered as high speed...aero balance looks biased rear. Might consider trimming size or adjusting attack. Or adding a splitter to the ZL front end.

I'm allowed 10" in ESP but the car is being built for NASA American Iron long term. I think I'm going to hold off and toss on a wing of sizeable cord.

[JusticePete]

Here you go.

[JusticePete]

[JusticePete]

[JusticePete]

JPSS V4 Aero tested to speeds in excess of 170 MPH. We have developed rear wickers for multiple rear 5th Gen spoilers including the Z/28.