AGP Twin Turbo Owners

[blake2010ss]

Mickeys are the way to go. Yea there's some sway but it's controllable. I never spun unless the tires were cold and it was 40° with them, and even then it was once.

[1KillerSS]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

So nitto 05r 315 35 20, nitto 555r 305 35 20, or Mickeys 305 35 20?

Mickey Thompson's, don't pick them according to available sizes.

[Blue70SS]

Anybody in the AGP group running a RPS or Streetslayer Triple Carbon clutch on a ZL1? Dreksnot thought somebody was..... we're having major problems with a Tilton slave working with it

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Blue70SS

Anybody in the AGP group running a RPS or Streetslayer Triple Carbon clutch on a ZL1? Dreksnot thought somebody was..... we're having major problems with a Tilton slave working with it

We use the RPS triple carbon on our high power ZL-1 builds.

What problem are you having?

Who did you purchase through?

There are some very specific parts involved on the ZL-1 vs the LS3.

You also must limit the pedal travel as not to over center the clutch.

Ted.

[Blue70SS]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

We use the RPS triple carbon on our high power ZL-1 builds.

What problem are you having?

Who did you purchase through?

There are some very specific parts involved on the ZL-1 vs the LS3.

You also must limit the pedal travel as not to over center the clutch.

Ted.

Hi Ted! Thanks for responding.... lots of head scratching going on here

It was supposed to be a Street Slayer through Hendrix, but somehow ended up coming from Carolina Clutch as RPS branded.

I personally have 2 triples from Thomas for my 2010 SS, so deep understanding of the measurements. The instructions for an SS are to set it up for .275" - .375" gap between the fingers and throw out bearing.

I'm on my 3rd triple clutch (I just rotate them out on rebuilds). 1st one was the older design before the single hub design - but same setup measurements. What I've found is when the clutch is almost 100% worn (it actually starts noticeable slipping under heavy load at low rpms under WOT), and that when the billet cover is unbolted from the flywheel off the car - the cover rests just barely above the flywheel. So where this is leading, is the difference in the clutch finger height growth from new to worn out is very comparable to measurements taken by measuring the distance between the billet cover and the fingers in 2 different modes. 1st its' measured with the clutch completely stacked and torqued down, then gradually loosen all the bolts till no resistance is on the stack - than take the same measurements.

The measurement has been very close to .378 gap each time - which means if my measured gap when installing the clutch was .275", I would be giving up 26.66% of my clutch life. Once the gap closes from clutch wear raising the finger height, it basically is starting to act like your out of clutch & beginning depressing the clutch.

1st problem -

So...... where all this explanation is going, is for the ZL1 it shows to set up the Tilton TOB/slave for .200"-.225", yet the clutch fingers still have the same rise of .378". So if setup for .225", 40.5% clutch life is lost.

I spoke with Carolina Clutch and they have no idea how far the ZL1 slave moves with one pedal stroke... but quoted Corvette C6 info - so I tested both the OEM and Tilton.

The Tilton moves the slave .27" and the OEM moves the throw out bearing .4455"

Max travel on the Tilton cylinder in the instructions state .7", and I measured the cylinder itself at .836" total insertion.

So if set up at .350" gap (my SS has been setup at just over .375" each time), then the portion of the available .7" travel is:

.350" setup gap + .27" Tilton movement = .62

2nd Main Problem -

The Tilton piston keeps getting stuck down. Bleeding was extremely slow, yet the OEM clutch master cylinder worked fine for bench test both the OEM and Tilton. Once installed we couldn't get a good bleed, had to remove the transmission and theorized the bottom o-ring that traps the brake fluid was stuck. Ended up gradually blowing it out with air pressure while holding the TOB cylinder from popping out and/or passing the outside orange seal so nothing would be damaged. The Tilton was reinstalled with about the cylinder out about 1/4" so fluid could definitlely flow below the o-ring for bleeding.

It ended up bleeding better, but still slower than the OEM. Once all the bubbles were definitely gone, the TOB still wouldn't move. I put a small rod inside the vent holes of the transmission and was able to easily move the TOB towards the engine to rest on the clutch fingers ........ so even after bleeding, the TOB hydraulic O-ring was still stuck.

Any ideas for the Tilton not working and any idea why the clutch should be setup for less distance when the clutch itself is identical to the SS? (I measured every possible disk thickness and compared to my rebuilt Street Slayer and found no differences).


Extra food for thought.... if the Tilton is bad out of the box and would normally flow the same amount as the ZL1 slave, then .4455" movement + .225" clutch finger gap = .6705" cylinder movement of the recommended max of .7" So it seems like for the ZL1 it's not so much "over centering" the clutch (since the clutch is identical), but going past the piston movement limitations of the Tilton slave I think?

[Ls1408cp]

Anyone have any good results with 7670efr turbos maxed out? The only car I found using them was the white zl1 and it's all high dollar stuff. I'm looking for someone that has them with manifolds and stock castings

[blake-b]

Originally Posted by Ls1408cp

Anyone have any good results with 7670efr turbos maxed out? The only car I found using them was the white zl1 and it's all high dollar stuff. I'm looking for someone that has them with manifolds and stock castings

I am using stock manifolds but non-stock heads. I should know within a couple of months how far I can push the EFR7670s as I'll have more engine than turbo.

[Glushenij]

I'm on EFR 7670,intake pipes,stock long block,stock exhaust headers,no cam,triple clutch,triple AGP flex fuel,AGP methanol, on almost 14psi make 807/811. My tuner sad exhaust headers will give me about 40hp and cam another 60,so stock block max out on 900 ish and after will be time for ERL stuff��

[Unreal]

Glush, headers and cam won't do that. If you want to make 900hp now, then just turn the boost up and make 900hp. Headers do nothing, and cam will lower the boost to make same power at lower boost, but who cares. You can make 900rwhp on 16psi or 14psi. Does it matter?

As for the EFRs, of course they are going to be on high dollar builds. No one is paying for a top of the line bling turbo on a budget build. Recently saw a single one make 750rwhp and go mid 9s in a heavy RWD car, and that was just one EFR7670.

[jeff657756]

I just bought the kit as well. My setup on my 1LE will be:

Turbos: 57/57 journal bearing .82 a/r w/ larger intercooler
Motor: Stock LS3
Nightfury Cam 113 lsa
stock trans (will probably upgrade clutch while I am under the car)
AGP Dual e85 430 pumps w/ flex fuel sensor. 1000cc injectors

Will update with numbers once I install. Will be tuned by Brian Turner in Columbus

Also, to those who are able to, please add me to the FB AGP owners group. I can pm my email.

[Sakudog]

Originally Posted by jeff657756

I just bought the kit as well. My setup on my 1LE will be:

Turbos: 57/57 journal bearing .82 a/r w/ larger intercooler
Motor: Stock LS3
Nightfury Cam 113 lsa
stock trans (will probably upgrade clutch while I am under the car)
AGP Dual e85 430 pumps w/ flex fuel sensor. 1000cc injectors

Will update with numbers once I install. Will be tuned by Brian Turner in Columbus

Also, to those who are able to, please add me to the FB AGP owners group. I can dm my email.

DM your email to me or RedlineViper, we'll add you.

[Unreal]

You can add me to the AGP FB group if you want, but I don't own a kit :(

[Unreal]

Originally Posted by jeff657756

I just bought the kit as well. My setup on my 1LE will be:

Turbos: 57/57 journal bearing .82 a/r w/ larger intercooler
Motor: Stock LS3
Nightfury Cam 113 lsa
stock trans (will probably upgrade clutch while I am under the car)
AGP Dual e85 430 pumps w/ flex fuel sensor. 1000cc injectors

Will update with numbers once I install. Will be tuned by Brian Turner in Columbus

Also, to those who are able to, please add me to the FB AGP owners group. I can pm my email.

Will make as much as you are willing to push your stock motor too. Could be 750rwhp or 1000rwhp. Thats up to you and your tuner.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Blue70SS

Hi Ted! Thanks for responding.... lots of head scratching going on here

It was supposed to be a Street Slayer through Hendrix, but somehow ended up coming from Carolina Clutch as RPS branded.

I personally have 2 triples from Thomas for my 2010 SS, so deep understanding of the measurements. The instructions for an SS are to set it up for .275" - .375" gap between the fingers and throw out bearing.

I'm on my 3rd triple clutch (I just rotate them out on rebuilds). 1st one was the older design before the single hub design - but same setup measurements. What I've found is when the clutch is almost 100% worn (it actually starts noticeable slipping under heavy load at low rpms under WOT), and that when the billet cover is unbolted from the flywheel off the car - the cover rests just barely above the flywheel. So where this is leading, is the difference in the clutch finger height growth from new to worn out is very comparable to measurements taken by measuring the distance between the billet cover and the fingers in 2 different modes. 1st its' measured with the clutch completely stacked and torqued down, then gradually loosen all the bolts till no resistance is on the stack - than take the same measurements.

The measurement has been very close to .378 gap each time - which means if my measured gap when installing the clutch was .275", I would be giving up 26.66% of my clutch life. Once the gap closes from clutch wear raising the finger height, it basically is starting to act like your out of clutch & beginning depressing the clutch.

1st problem -

So...... where all this explanation is going, is for the ZL1 it shows to set up the Tilton TOB/slave for .200"-.225", yet the clutch fingers still have the same rise of .378". So if setup for .225", 40.5% clutch life is lost.

I spoke with Carolina Clutch and they have no idea how far the ZL1 slave moves with one pedal stroke... but quoted Corvette C6 info - so I tested both the OEM and Tilton.

The Tilton moves the slave .27" and the OEM moves the throw out bearing .4455"

Max travel on the Tilton cylinder in the instructions state .7", and I measured the cylinder itself at .836" total insertion.

So if set up at .350" gap (my SS has been setup at just over .375" each time), then the portion of the available .7" travel is:

.350" setup gap + .27" Tilton movement = .62

2nd Main Problem -

The Tilton piston keeps getting stuck down. Bleeding was extremely slow, yet the OEM clutch master cylinder worked fine for bench test both the OEM and Tilton. Once installed we couldn't get a good bleed, had to remove the transmission and theorized the bottom o-ring that traps the brake fluid was stuck. Ended up gradually blowing it out with air pressure while holding the TOB cylinder from popping out and/or passing the outside orange seal so nothing would be damaged. The Tilton was reinstalled with about the cylinder out about 1/4" so fluid could definitlely flow below the o-ring for bleeding.

It ended up bleeding better, but still slower than the OEM. Once all the bubbles were definitely gone, the TOB still wouldn't move. I put a small rod inside the vent holes of the transmission and was able to easily move the TOB towards the engine to rest on the clutch fingers ........ so even after bleeding, the TOB hydraulic O-ring was still stuck.

Any ideas for the Tilton not working and any idea why the clutch should be setup for less distance when the clutch itself is identical to the SS? (I measured every possible disk thickness and compared to my rebuilt Street Slayer and found no differences).


Extra food for thought.... if the Tilton is bad out of the box and would normally flow the same amount as the ZL1 slave, then .4455" movement + .225" clutch finger gap = .6705" cylinder movement of the recommended max of .7" So it seems like for the ZL1 it's not so much "over centering" the clutch (since the clutch is identical), but going past the piston movement limitations of the Tilton slave I think?

I purchase all of our RPS clutches through Carolina Clutch and they have been great at helping whenever a problem has arised.

This is a lot of info thank you for the detail.

From what I can tell it sounds like you have the wrong tilton for your application shown by the difference in travel for 1 pedal stroke.

The proportion from the master to the slave is such you can't get enough movement out of the slave to work the clutch.

You can run a stock slave but must limit the pedal travel with a pedal stop.

Call me if this does not make sense. 203-753-7223