IPS turbo install

[ipimpthisc]

well fellas I have good news, i got the t-clamps put in...all went well with the injectors too...took some playing around but i got 597 hp at the wheel running an 11.5 afr across, and at 9 psi..i am very satisfied..i personally didnt see it but i was told this by my guy...tomorrow or later today actually i get the car....wish me luck. ps i never got a chance to tell ips about the issues....if the injectors didnt work, i was gonna do the ford 76 lbs...which i hear are great.....so good night, tomorrow is another day

[ipimpthisc]

Originally Posted by Boost6924

I went with 1000cc's. They will support all i need (1000+RWHP) with pump gas and meth. And yes, i can tune it for E-85 as well

i wish but i aint running a forged set up....over 700 hp to the wheels is dangerous ground on the stock block

[ipimpthisc]

Originally Posted by carbon8

oh and the granatelli kit doesn't come with T-bolt clamps ether. I blew a hose off on the dyno too. You might talk to your shop about doing a boost leak test when its all hooked up if your worried about burning up a turbo.

hehe ,....now i dont feel so bad

[c-dub]

freakin sweet dude, When you get the car back you must post vids of turbo goodness for the rest of us

[SUX2BU]

Originally Posted by ipimpthisc

but more disturbing is this.....that the boost referencing sensor goes into the fmic i believe and not into the turbo,...so basically if i lose pressure some where the waste gates would open too much and over boost...resulting in a blown motor

as we where doing a dyno run...a hose blew off...the clamp gave way....smh...we shut it down asap but the problem is if this happens on a dyno it will for sure in nyc streets full of vibrations, harmonics etc, and not just from boost...again resulting in over rev or boost damage..

You do know that when wategates open they reduce boost psi right?

Same thing if a pipe comes loose you will lose almost all boost, not sure how you could over rev or have boost damage when you lose boost.

[axis]

Originally Posted by SUX2BU

You do know that when wategates open they reduce boost psi right?

Same thing if a pipe comes loose you will lose almost all boost, not sure how you could over rev or have boost damage when you lose boost.

+1.

I get the feeling that the OP doesn't quite have all the technical aspecs of a turbo system down.

Technically, there should be 3 wastegates on your car if you're running twins. Two exhaust wastegates and a BOV. The exhaust wastegates remain closed until the desired boost pressure is met, then they modulate to keep the boost pressure at the desired level. If they're not plumbed back into the exhaust, they sound like you opened up a set of cutouts, when you're at full boost. The third is the BOV which relieves boost pressure on the cold side when you let off the gas.

As SUX explained, if you blow a IC pipe off, the car essentially becomes NA again. Obviously it would run like shit since you're tuned for FI, but once you put the pipe back on, all is well again. Not sure how the GM fuel map works but i'd think your tuner could tune in some fail safe mechanisms that would protect your engine in case of overboosting. Something like fuel cut at a certain boost pressure.

598 is good HP for just 9psi. How much Tq did it lay down? Please post up the sheet once you get it. I'd like to see the curve.

[4xchamp]

You made good #'s congrats . How much torque did it make ? My single top mount makes 576/598 @ 7psi .
Good luck and enjoy the car .

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by axis

+1.

I get the feeling that the OP doesn't quite have all the technical aspecs of a turbo system down.

Technically, there should be 3 wastegates on your car if you're running twins. Two exhaust wastegates and a BOV. The exhaust wastegates remain closed until the desired boost pressure is met, then they modulate to keep the boost pressure at the desired level. If they're not plumbed back into the exhaust, they sound like you opened up a set of cutouts, when you're at full boost. The third is the BOV which relieves boost pressure on the cold side when you let off the gas.

As SUX explained, if you blow a IC pipe off, the car essentially becomes NA again. Obviously it would run like shit since you're tuned for FI, but once you put the pipe back on, all is well again. Not sure how the GM fuel map works but i'd think your tuner could tune in some fail safe mechanisms that would protect your engine in case of overboosting. Something like fuel cut at a certain boost pressure.

598 is good HP for just 9psi. How much Tq did it lay down? Please post up the sheet once you get it. I'd like to see the curve.

This,

Ask me how I know...

To add a little bit, if you do blow off a boost line, it may be a case of the only way you know it is you can't get into boost... The car will continue to run, in my case, even better than stock due to the cubic inches and bigger cam...

If you ever jump on it and it wont go into boost, find a good place to get off the road and check everything you can... If your not sure, call for a tow...

If you blow off a boost line (side A) , then what happens is that (A) turbo wont make any boost, but it will free spin with no resistance and overspin, cooking the bearings...and the turbo on the other side (side B) will try to make up the difference and will free spin with little resistance, due to the missing hose on the first side (A)... The boost air will travel to the I/C, through it and out the boost line on the original side and out to atmosphere... In effect, in short order, you will over spin both turbo's and end up cooking both of them... Been there done that got the T-shirts... I in effect bought 4 turbos to acquire the two I have now, but that's another story...

Due to apparent confusion and to reinforce what axis said, wastegates hold until the desired boost level is reached, and then they open to vent extra pressure.. to protect the motor. They will open and close automatically as needed based on spring weight..., and the BOV holds pressure until there is a sudden release of the throttle under boost... If you get into boost and then suddenly let off the throttle, the throttle blade slams shut and the boosted air no longer has anywhere to go... so, the BOV opens Psssshhhhh and vents the air until the turbos are starved for exhaust pressure and/or until resistance slows them down... All of this is to protect the motor...High quality well matched Waste Gates and BOV's are a critical part of a good Turbo system...

[qtr-camaro ss]

Good to hear from you about IPS twin turbi kit. Im planing on getting that kit in september, I will drive to IPS to get every thing done there. Its there turbo kit, I don't think they will have any problem when they install it .

I will let you know when evrything is done

[ipimpthisc]

well guys i have good news and bad news...first I thank every1 for their input and knowledge...as this is a quest for me. (IPS KIT IS GREAT....no regrets on it...best bang for the buck hands down..just get t-clamps and your good) O i got my car. After some talk between ips techs and my tech the kinks of the injectors was resloved. i got tclamped in all critical areas and no blown hoses this time..so now we dyno AS MY TECH STATED A CONSERVATIVE 592 HP AND 587 LBS TORQUE I THINK at like 5400 rpm...TORQUE AND HP WHERE VERY STRONG FROM ABOUT 2300 RPM AND UP. If u stomp in 1, 2 or 3rd...u become a rocket that has the sweetest sounds of a jet plane...now for the bad news...after a couple of good pulls on the high way, and 100 miles plus of a drive...i pull into my garage and shut the car off. YES YES I made sure oil temp was good, as i sissied the car for about 30 min before reaching home. When i restarted the car I had ..zero oil pressure and a low pressure shut off warning...I shut her down, and restarted a couple of times...zero pressure.. I could here ticking and a small clanking sound in the motor...no bueno...its off in a tow truck back to tech. muthfreaking luck i have..i am not happy at all...I am hoping this is not an expensive fix since i am tapped out already :( Btw the car idled great and had no oil leaks i could see, no smoke or any crazy smells etc...just no oil pressure...it ran home with out issue ...but i did notice the oil pressure was low to me...at idle before this all happened. I had no knock in the engine, all temp where cool..no over heat, nothing...but it just had no pressure on that start up. any ideas family...i am really not in a happy place right now :(

[carbon8]

Oh man that sucks. Did you check your oil level. And before you go to the shop you might check and make sure your oil sending unit is plugged in good. It's behind the intake. On these TT kits they have to unplug and remove the oil sending unit and place a spacer in between the block and the oil sending unit. They use that to feed the turbos. And maybe they didn't get it plugged in very good and it's getting a bad connection.


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- Daniel

[carbon8]

BOV
What does it do:

The purpose of a blow off valve or compressor bypass valve is to prevent large pressure spikes in the intake pipes when the throttle plate is closed while boosting, preventing the turbo from surging. The BOV sits between the turbo and the throttle body and has a vacuum line that is attached to both the other side of the BOV valve and the intake manifold. When you are boosting the pressure on both sides of the valve is essentially equal because the pressure in the intake manifold is the same as in the intake pipes. When you close the throttle plate while boosting all that air slams into the plate and pressure spikes. At the same time the intake manifold pressure drops to a vacuum, and thus so does the pressure on the other side of the valve. The result is the valve opens wide to allow the pressure to vent out. Also included in a good BOV is some form of spring to aid in keeping the valve closed during modulating part throttle situations so that the BOV doesn't open and cause drivability problems.

Just like what Robert said.


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- Daniel

[SSE 4 2SS]

Sounds like you might have suffered an oil pump pressure relief valve failure... There is some history of it occurring...

the tin king and CLANKS you hear occasionally is normal cooling of the motor, you just may not have noticed it so much before, you like I was and still am am now hypersensitive to any noise the car makes... Nature of such a major change...

the oil pump problem is from the relief valve sticking in the open position... It is still trying to pump oil but meets no resistance as it is bypassing... Try again in the am, but I would look seriously into getting a new oil pump...

I hope for your sake I'm wrong, and Daniel is right, but, if you have no oil dripping and the oil pressure sending unit is properly installed, that's where I would look first...

Good luck bro, I feel your pain...

[carbon8]

Good luck,
All of us turbo guys have to stick together there isn't very many of us.


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- Daniel