Clutch sounds like it's about to FALL OUT!

[mikepage0007]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

Save yourself the time and the aggrevation. If you actually get them to do anything about it, you're just going to end up with another crappy clutch that's going to break on you in a few months.

I know the idea of taking money out of your pocket to resolve the is frustrating, but you'll get a bad ass aftermarket clutch installed and won't have to worry about it again.

i have to agree , my twin disc is smooth and quiet as hell..unfourunately i blew my slave cylinder and haven,t pulled the tranny yet to see what broke loose to lose all the fluid...i,m going 4l80 anyhow, ..but not thrilled that to fix the slave cylinder issue rquires removal of tranny

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by mikepage0007

i have to agree , my twin disc is smooth and quiet as hell..unfourunately i blew my slave cylinder and haven,t pulled the tranny yet to see what broke loose to lose all the fluid...i,m going 4l80 anyhow, ..but not thrilled that to fix the slave cylinder issue rquires removal of tranny

Nothing seems to ever change. I'm estimating once everybody get's over the "do not import, and made in America propoganda" the next bail-out scam will be around 2020.

[67motorcat]

Originally Posted by Comrando

Drivetrain slack.

You have a two-piece driveshaft, differential, and then, with IRS, two more driveshafts. So there are quite a few u-joints.

It takes some practice to get used to but if you disengage the clutch while the engine speed matches the car speed, no noise. While accelerating or decelerating releasing the load (disengaging the clutch) will cause some slap.

If you can't easily slip the shifter into neutral with no clutch you have a load on the drivetrain. I imagine you are pressing the clutch while decelerating, wait until you are going slower (idle speed) before pressing the pedal. Or press it, or shift to neutral, before you release the throttle.

Bingo......this issue has alot to do with HOW you drive the car.

All of them will make the noise under certain conditions.
I quickly learned to change my driving style.It does take quite a bit of driving time to get used to the clutch on this car.Once you do it is automatic with no thought.

It's not an issue with most drivers and most cars.The factory clutches are in fact very robust and most people have little issues even with power adders.

I hate when people say it's GM junk etc.Not saying you guys don't know how to drive a stick,but you would be surprised how some people drive a stick car and expect them to live.....even a Honda.

If you smell it burning,your riding it or driving with your left foot on the pedal and not the floor.....period.

I'm not surprised by the Dealers comments on the issue.

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by 67motorcat

Bingo......this issue has alot to do with HOW you drive the car.

All of them will make the noise under certain conditions.
I quickly learned to change my driving style.It does take quite a bit of driving time to get used to the clutch on this car.Once you do it is automatic with no thought.

It's not an issue with most drivers and most cars.The factory clutches are in fact very robust and most people have little issues even with power adders.

I hate when people say it's GM junk etc.Not saying you guys don't know how to drive a stick,but you would be surprised how some people drive a stick car and expect them to live.....even a Honda.

If you smell it burning,your riding it or driving with your left foot on the pedal and not the floor.....period.

I'm not surprised by the Dealers comments on the issue.

I hate it when people don't read the threads regarding this issue (there are many of them) and then say they hate it when people say it's GM junk. Issues with the entire manual drive system is well known. And, to imply everybody needs to re-learn how to drive manual specifically because the parts on this vehicle is tempermental is rediculous.

Don't hate on the responsible people who end up spending their hard earned money to fix a problem that's not being addressed by the manufacturing process.

[67motorcat]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

I hate it when people don't read the threads regarding this issue (there are many of them) and then say they hate it when people say it's GM junk. Issues with the entire manual drive system is well known. And, to imply everybody needs to re-learn how to drive manual specifically because the parts on this vehicle is tempermental is rediculous.

Don't hate on the responsible people who end up spending their hard earned money to fix a problem that's not being addressed by the manufacturing process.

Trust me,I have read plenty regarding the M6 issues including a close friend who had his early build date Car trans replaced by the dealer.

I apologize for defending GM when people say it's just junk... when the reality is the percentage of owners with clutch-trans problems is very,very small considering there are now a couple hundred thousand on the road.I would guess less than 1 percent.

Also considering the way some people beat on them day in and day out.I'm surprised the number of issues isn't greater.

Who am I hating on?...no one at all....just saying these cars need to be driven and clutched a bit differently.

Do you think a clutch-trans operates and drives on a 911 Carrera with the same manners as a Honda....I don't think so.

Sure some cars have issues,but to say GM is junk because of that,now thats ridiculous.

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by 67motorcat

Trust me,I have read plenty regarding the M6 issues including a close friend who had his early build date Car trans replaced by the dealer.

I apologize for defending GM when people say it's just junk... when the reality is the percentage of owners with clutch-trans problems is very,very small considering there are now a couple hundred thousand on the road.I would guess less than 1 percent.

Also considering the way some people beat on them day in and day out.I'm surprised the number of issues isn't greater.

Who am I hating on?...no one at all....just saying these cars need to be driven and clutched a bit differently.

Do you think a clutch-trans operates and drives on a 911 Carrera with the same manners as a Honda....I don't think so.

Sure some cars have issues,but to say GM is junk because of that,now thats ridiculous.

I don't know the numbers because I"m not privy to GM's customer database or the reported incidents on the clutch. But, it does appear to be a serious issue. It doesn't take a very long time to go on any Camaro forum to find "several" complaints about the clutch, or some part of the shifting of the gears. It's the same story over, and over again.

So, as far as I'm concerned (as a consumer), I don't care about excuses and or comparisons to other vehicles that are in another price range.

The fact of the matter is the clutch assembly in this particular vehicle could have been a lot better without breaking the bank. And, therefore, when I (the consumer) have to purchase a clutch and / or other components that doesn't burn, smoke, break, or refuse to dis-engage, as far as I'm concerned the OE clutch is "garbage".

You don't have to agree, and if you want to chalk it up as just a few incidents at 1% which is still high incident rate in my books 1000 p/100k(because others don't really drive the vehicle to any level of capacity) that's up to you as well, but I refuse to beleive that I and several other people must somehow learn how to drive "this car" differently than any other manual transmission vehicle, that is not acceptable.

[insomniac2k2]

I have to say that i'm with the group that feels that it's a piss poor clutch and needs improvement. Does it work? Yes. If working were my only criteria, id buy a hyundai. They usually work for a while after you drive them off a lot....

You should not have to buy a replacement clutch for a vehicle that you paid 40k for.

[Kevlo79]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

Save yourself the time and the aggrevation. If you actually get them to do anything about it, you're just going to end up with another crappy clutch that's going to break on you in a few months.

I know the idea of taking money out of your pocket to resolve the is frustrating, but you'll get a bad ass aftermarket clutch installed and won't have to worry about it again.

I'm considering that, although a new clutch is a significant cost that I don't feel like I should have to afford just to fox what appears to be a manufacturing defect. Plus, I'm not convinced it's the actual clutch h that's causing the problem. As previously posted this could be a problem farther down the drive train relative to a rubber coupler on the transmission output shaft. Would hate to pick up a new clutch and still have the same problem!

Originally Posted by 67motorcat

Bingo......this issue has alot to do with HOW you drive the car.

All of them will make the noise under certain conditions.
I quickly learned to change my driving style.It does take quite a bit of driving time to get used to the clutch on this car.Once you do it is automatic with no thought.

It's not an issue with most drivers and most cars.The factory clutches are in fact very robust and most people have little issues even with power adders.

I hate when people say it's GM junk etc.Not saying you guys don't know how to drive a stick,but you would be surprised how some people drive a stick car and expect them to live.....even a Honda.

If you smell it burning,your riding it or driving with your left foot on the pedal and not the floor.....period.

I'm not surprised by the Dealers comments on the issue.

I'm not expecting the clutch to make zero sound. The sound that I'm referring to is NOT a normal sound. Also, as previously stated, I've driven a stick shift my entire driving life and NEVER heard this sound. The scenarios I've described are NOT avoidable, they occur every day, in a typical persons driving. This clutch may be somewhat different than a Honda or other non-performance vehicle, but the operation is not any different aside from different clutch engagement conditions. In addition, the problem seems to be somewhere else in the drive train, could be completely unrelated to the clutch. The purpose of this thread is not to make any claim as to GM junk, I love this car, I just want it to run properly, and I'm not riding the clutch, PERIOD.

Originally Posted by calbert1999

I hate it when people don't read the threads regarding this issue (there are many of them) and then say they hate it when people say it's GM junk. Issues with the entire manual drive system is well known. And, to imply everybody needs to re-learn how to drive manual specifically because the parts on this vehicle is tempermental is rediculous.

Don't hate on the responsible people who end up spending their hard earned money to fix a problem that's not being addressed by the manufacturing process.

Agree!!

Originally Posted by calbert1999

I don't know the numbers because I"m not privy to GM's customer database or the reported incidents on the clutch. But, it does appear to be a serious issue. It doesn't take a very long time to go on any Camaro forum to find "several" complaints about the clutch, or some part of the shifting of the gears. It's the same story over, and over again.

So, as far as I'm concerned (as a consumer), I don't care about excuses and or comparisons to other vehicles that are in another price range.

The fact of the matter is the clutch assembly in this particular vehicle could have been a lot better without breaking the bank. And, therefore, when I (the consumer) have to purchase a clutch and / or other components that doesn't burn, smoke, break, or refuse to dis-engage, as far as I'm concerned the OE clutch is "garbage".

You don't have to agree, and if you want to chalk it up as just a few incidents at 1% which is still high incident rate in my books 1000 p/100k(because others don't really drive the vehicle to any level of capacity) that's up to you as well, but I refuse to beleive that I and several other people must somehow learn how to drive "this car" differently than any other manual transmission vehicle, that is not acceptable.

Exactly!!

[jesserayjames]

I have a 2012 I picked up 30 days ago, and I do not have either problem...............................

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by jesserayjames

I have a 2012 I picked up 30 days ago, and I do not have either problem...............................

You sure? Here's how you find out.

Try this; Warm her up real nice. Then get on it and shift gears at 4.5+k rpm., do this from 1, 2, 3 then 4, and eventually 5.

The reason why "most" don't have the problem is because most don't know how to drive s sports car. So, shift gears a low RPM's where no vehicle will ever have an issue. But, if you get on it the way it's supposed to be driven, that's when you'll miss gears (grinding noise), clutch pedal will stick to the floor, clutch will burn up, et al.

Now if after you keep driving the car (the way it should be driven), and you don't have the issue then a big , to you, otherwise I bet you'll be back on here complaining like everybody else with an M6 and drives the vehicle the way it's meant to be driven.

I didn't have the problem either until I started driving the car.

[Orange Krate]

Originally Posted by Kevlo79

I recently picked up a new 2012 SS (45th anny) and I've noticed two things from the get go that seem quite wrong.

1. When I push the clutch in quickly from a moderate rev, like when climbing a curb to get in my driveway at slow speed (trying not to curb stomp the front end) the clutch makes this terrible clangy rattelly sound like it's banging around or just plain loose!! Does this during moderate shifts on the road as well for 1-2, and 2-3 shfits. Never under heavier load though.

2. There is a terrible burning smell, something like hot rubber, but not quite. At first I thought it was just new rubber getting broken in, but I'm right about 700 miles now and it seems that the smell is not constant. It is especially bad when I'm on a hill or when I pull into the garage after climbing the curb. I read about 2010's having this problem but haven't seen any 12's reported.

If anyone has/is having this problem please post here and let me know what your solution was/is. I don't have a whole lot of knowledge about cars and such. If I end up taking it to the dealer I'd at least like to be able to go in there and point them in the right direction without sounding like an idiot!!

Appreciate any help!!

I have the EXACT same problem. Burning rubber smell if even on a slight incline not slipping clutch etc. It is bizarre and I too drive a clutch vehicle EVERY day on a 120 mile round trip. My commuter car has 165K miles on its original clutch, I drive trucks etc and have been driving 40 years. IT ISN'T ME! It is the transmission/clutch assembly. The trans is very loose and noisy and it has 8400 miles on it. I have been to the dealer twice and no resolve. They say..."Can't duplicate problem" or "Driver's driving style" (code for unskilled driver?!?! Come on!) It is about time to make the 1-800 call to Chevrolet Customer Assistance. There are multiple threads on this and I printed out one thread in its entirety and took it to the Service Manager at my dealership and he said that until Chevy/GM publishes a TSB his hands are tied. The car is great as long as you don't drive it past what grandma would drive it like. Oh yeah... I would love to flush out the rear diff and trans both and replace with Royal Purple. I have had people tell me that helps the noise and smooths out the shift but it also VOIDS the warranty?! Go figure.

[Kevlo79]

Originally Posted by Orange Krate

I have the EXACT same problem. Burning rubber smell if even on a slight incline not slipping clutch etc. It is bizarre and I too drive a clutch vehicle EVERY day on a 120 mile round trip. My commuter car has 165K miles on its original clutch, I drive trucks etc and have been driving 40 years. IT ISN'T ME! It is the transmission/clutch assembly. The trans is very loose and noisy and it has 8400 miles on it. I have been to the dealer twice and no resolve. They say..."Can't duplicate problem" or "Driver's driving style" (code for unskilled driver?!?! Come on!) It is about time to make the 1-800 call to Chevrolet Customer Assistance. There are multiple threads on this and I printed out one thread in its entirety and took it to the Service Manager at my dealership and he said that until Chevy/GM publishes a TSB his hands are tied. The car is great as long as you don't drive it past what grandma would drive it like. Oh yeah... I would love to flush out the rear diff and trans both and replace with Royal Purple. I have had people tell me that helps the noise and smooths out the shift but it also VOIDS the warranty?! Go figure.

I'm really glad to see others posting the same problem. Don't get me wrong, I hate to hear folks having to deal with this stuff, but it does add credibility to the legitimacy of the issue. Thanks to everyone who is taking the time to post here. My dealer service tech is going to get back to me today after he's spoken with the GM engineer and I'll post the response here. The glove box that they were supposed to fix still has the same latch issue (fix = no difference!) so I'm going to have to take it back in and when I do I intend to have them look at it again. The last time I was there I really felt like they didn't look at it at all. I think they just chalked it up as a whiny customer who knows nothing about manual transmissions. Next time I'm going to try to get back in the shop and have them actually SHOW me what's happening. As I've said, I LOVE this car, I just want it to operate properly!

In reality, the customers are part of the Chevy team. Without the customers feed back Chevy would not know about these issues, and would thusly never correct them. The way I see it, Chevy depends on us to report these issues so that they can learn from them and produce a better product. The drivetrain is a critical element in ANY car, and in a performance vehicle it should be paid even more attention to. I think the we need to give credit to the service guys, in the end it will be they who really figure out the solution. I really just want to work with them to find out what the problem is and fix it. I plan to work with them hopefully to a positive end and I will avoid any sort of escalation as long as possible. Nobody likes being tossed under the bus. That said, if I run into a wall I will be forced to escalate, I can't accept putting out 40k+ for a vehicle with a drivetrain that sounds like it belongs in a beater!!

Someone, please HELP ME!!

[nak3dsnake]

The clunk noise is driveline shunt, and is normal. Our cars have two piece drive shafts, plus the rear diff and transmission has some play in it. This is called backlash, backlash is the clearance between the drivetrain components to allow for heat expansion. If your load the drive line with torque and take it a way, it will rattle sometimes. If you engage and disengage the clutch pedal more smoothly its not as noticeable or does not happen. My car does it, Corvettes have it, even Porsches, Alfa Romeos and BMW's have it. There are people with 50k+ on cars of various brands that do the same thing with zero issues. If you don't like it buy an automatic. As for the clutches, all the factory ones are more or less rubbish, especially if you add power.

[jmaynard]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

You sure? Here's how you find out.

Try this; Warm her up real nice. Then get on it and shift gears at 4.5+k rpm., do this from 1, 2, 3 then 4, and eventually 5.

The reason why "most" don't have the problem is because most don't know how to drive s sports car. So, shift gears a low RPM's where no vehicle will ever have an issue. But, if you get on it the way it's supposed to be driven, that's when you'll miss gears (grinding noise), clutch pedal will stick to the floor, clutch will burn up, et al.

Now if after you keep driving the car (the way it should be driven), and you don't have the issue then a big , to you, otherwise I bet you'll be back on here complaining like everybody else with an M6 and drives the vehicle the way it's meant to be driven.

I didn't have the problem either until I started driving the car.

Well, I drive a 2012 2SS w/ the factory Hurst shifter and I can tell you that, other than me failing to push into 3rd once or twice, I have not experienced this problem. And before you question if I drive the car in the manner you described, you need to ride with me. Only time I ever shift below 4500 rpm is when the wife is in the car. I am almost at highway speeds before I get to 3rd gear. More times that I care to admit I just go from 3 to 5/6 because I am already well above the speed limit and dont want a ticket so I drop to 5 or 6 and back down.