cam suggestion or tips need help

[litle88]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

I have been reading the "night fury " post what is it with these kids who think something called a big mutha thumper or something is all that..........LOL It is retarded. The cam I am going with is the best TSP cam they have out the .639/.623 with the redesigned lobes to make more duration and not hit the pistons and I will most likely get it 114 lobe separation to insure it never hits the pistons and the .675 double springs are a must with this cam along with 7.425 push rods. Their site does not accurately show a dyno for this cam as the designer of the website is skiing in Colorado according to them.... SO heres the specs for the next best cam that is below the 639........sure its on a dyno with most likely no accessories and free flowing headers so do the math a stock engine with all the goodies is 426 h.p. this shows what a ls3 gets with out all the h.p. drains which is around 480-490 and it adds the total to 568.5 that means it gains about 80 h.p. from stock as they claim add 426 h.p. plus 80 and you are at 506 h.p. but the math is really not that simple , and that's figuring in I do not know what they have connected to the engine on the dyno...maybe a alternator? And this cam shown on here knowing the loss from drivetrain loss should be over 500 rwhp. As it shows 480-490 plus the difference getting to the 568.5 is lets say 80 h.p. now the difference being safe is 490-426= 64 h.p. from loosing the exhaust and accessories on the dyno... and that equals out to: 568.5 - 64= 504.5 and this is on a dyno...and this is RWHP? is it attached to a trans.....yes must be ........... And must consider parasitic loss from the drivetrain..... And is more powerful than the "Night Fury, Smurf berry, or Double Humper Mutha Bumper....LOL Anyway that's what I figure as they are pretty damn good in Texas and there are so many speed shops there and places that build cars that its the mecca for performance and I think this may be the best cam I have found that's about it........

and stock torque around 400 it shows about 480 on a dyno no accessories or exhaust it goes to 518 netting about 40 with a nicer flatter torque curve, as far as with headers and etc who knows it may gain 60 so figure 460 torque with all accessories. that means to me realistically this second best cam is well above the " fart fury" cam most likely with similar mods and its not the best one they are selling that they say beats this one. Many people look at duration and go oh this one has this amount of duration oh its gonna make a lot of power, well lift also gets the gas and exhaust in and out and depending on the ramping of the cam and how fast it closes a cam with shorter duration can actually make a lot more power than longer duration cam, also LSA lobe separation angle decides a lot of things such as if you search under LSA and find a chart like this one
http://www.compcams.com/Pages/413/ca...ion-angle.aspx

you see what little changes can do...

Effect Of Changes In Cam Timing And Lobe Separation Angle

The following tables illustrate how variations in lobe separation angle and cam
timing will effect the behavior of the engine in which the camshaft is installed.
EFFECTS OF ALTERING CAMSHAFT TIMING
Advancing Retarding Begins Intake Event Sooner Delays Intake Closing Event Open Intake Valve Sooner Keeps Intake Valve Open Later Builds More Low-End Torque Builds More High-RPM Power Decrease Piston-Intake Valve Clearance Increase Piston-Intake Valve Clearance Increase Piston-Exhaust Valve Clearance Decrease Piston-Exhaust Valve Clearance EFFECTS OF CHANGING LOBE SEPERATION ANGLE (LSA)
Tighten (smaller LSA number) Widen (larger LSA number) Moves Torque to Lower RPM Raise Torque to Higher RPM Increases Maximum Torque Reduces Maximum Torque Narrow Power band Broadens Power Band Builds Higher Cylinder Pressure Reduce Maximum Cylinder Pressure Increase Chance of Engine Knock Decrease Chance of Engine Knock Increase Cranking Compression Decrease Cranking Compression Increase Effective Compression Decrease Effective Compression Idle Vacuum is Reduced Idle Vacuum is Increased Idle Quality Suffers Idle Quality Improves Open Valve-Overlap Increases Open Valve-Overlap Decreases Closed Valve-Overlap Increases Closed Valve-Overlap Decreases Natural EGR Effect Increases Natural EGR Effect is Reduced Decreases Piston-to-Valve Clearance Increases Piston-to-Valve Clearance CAMSHAFT GEOGRAPHY AND LOBE FUNCTION
1) Max Lift or Nose 2) Flank 3) Opening Clearance Ramp 4) Closing Clearance Ramp 5) Base Circle 6) Exhaust Opening Timing Figure 7) Exhaust Closing Timing Figure 8) Intake Opening Timing Figure 9) Intake Closing Timing Figure 10) Intake to Exhaust Lobe Separation

Effects Of Changes In Cam Timing And Lobe Separation Angle

The following tables illustrate how variations in lobe separation angle and cam
timing will effect the behavior of the engine in which the camshaft is installed.
EFFECTS OF ALTERING CAMSHAFT TIMING
Advancing Retarding Begins Intake Event Sooner Delays Intake Closing Event Open Intake Valve Sooner Keeps Intake Valve Open Later Builds More Low-End Torque Builds More High-RPM Power Decrease Piston-Intake Valve Clearance Increase Piston-Intake Valve Clearance Increase Piston-Exhaust Valve Clearance Decrease Piston-Exhaust Valve Clearance EFFECTS OF CHANGING LOBE SEPERATION ANGLE (LSA)
Tighten (smaller LSA number) Widen (larger LSA number) Moves Torque to Lower RPM Raise Torque to Higher RPM Increases Maximum Torque Reduces Maximum Torque Narrow Power band Broadens Power Band Builds Higher Cylinder Pressure Reduce Maximum Cylinder Pressure Increase Chance of Engine Knock Decrease Chance of Engine Knock Increase Cranking Compression Decrease Cranking Compression Increase Effective Compression Decrease Effective Compression Idle Vacuum is Reduced Idle Vacuum is Increased Idle Quality Suffers Idle Quality Improves Open Valve-Overlap Increases Open Valve-Overlap Decreases Closed Valve-Overlap Increases Closed Valve-Overlap Decreases Natural EGR Effect Increases Natural EGR Effect is Reduced Decreases Piston-to-Valve Clearance Increases Piston-to-Valve Clearance CAMSHAFT GEOGRAPHY AND LOBE FUNCTION
1) Max Lift or Nose 2) Flank 3) Opening Clearance Ramp 4) Closing Clearance Ramp 5) Base Circle 6) Exhaust Opening Timing Figure 7) Exhaust Closing Timing Figure 8) Intake Opening Timing Figure 9) Intake Closing Timing Figure 10) Intake to Exhaust Lobe Separation


go to the website this copy of the thing did not work good and mixed up the LSA and Timing stuff.......so you see it pays to do your homework and look around and decide for yourself.. As I want more lobe separation angle when I have a cam with so much lift and guts its the best they can make without having to fly cut the reliefs in to the pistons requiring pulling the heads etc....$$$$$ here is the things they say about the most popular cam that is the one below what I am going to buy, and p.s. I found a you tube of some guys idling his Camaro with the >639 cam

Texas Speed LS3 231/236 .644"/613" Camshaft

base price $399.99
item# 25-231236







|Share on emailShare on printMore Sharing ServicesShare

• 

TSP's all new line of LS3 camshafts are a result of months of engine dyno camshaft development using our state of the art Superflow 902 engine dyno. Using a brand new LS3 crate engine we started from scratch to build the most power LS3 camshafts available in the country.

The 231/236 camshaft is a great larger duration camshaft for power applications from 2200rpm+. This camshaft is designed to make more power than the stock camshaft above 2200rpm even with it's larger duration! The 231/236 camshaft uses a tighter lobe separation and extra advance to create awesome across the board power. The result of these changes is a large duration camshaft that makes over 80 peak hp gains with a radical idle. LS3 computers can easily be tuned to drive great with this camshaft with some bucking bellow 1500 rpm. M6 cars or automatic cars with stall converter 2500rpm or larger required. We recommend this camshaft for LS3 or LS2 engines using L92/LS3 rectangle port cylinder heads!

Specs:

231/236 .644"/613" 111 LSA *camshaft is also available in wider LSA

Aggressive intake lobe requires the use of a Precision Race Components EHT Spring Kit! Please specify below if you would like a single-bolt or three-bolt cam!

sure its got

You ARE NOW the copy and paste king!
I understood nothing you typed yourself, except for the fact that shops have names to differentiate their cams. Your still stuck in old school mode, brake out of it cause the new gen 3/4 are way ahead of the 350's days.

[SolomonAKOO]

Well with all that being said. I'd suggest you get ahold of Martin@Tick Performance, he'll set you up just right for your goals! He's a great guy and very very knowledgable.

[B-_-RAD]

Lol "redesigned lobes" makes some people think they're getting something I guess... The night fury cam has been proven time and time again and it makes power. You can trash talk all the cams you want, but if you really knew anything you would be come up with your own cam specs instead of just buying what the Internet says is the latest and greatest.

[62nalide]

Yes do your research wisely I have seen 380rwhp 5th gen drag 460rwhp cars. Good to have a high number but keeping the it in the power band is what you want. I know the NF cam is a great cam don't get me wrong the numbers and power are there but not the track times. Just depends on what you want, I'm sure the NF cam shine in a roll or highway race.

[B-_-RAD]

Originally Posted by 62nalide

Yes do your research wisely I have seen 380rwhp 5th gen drag 460rwhp cars. Good to have a high number but keeping the it in the power band is what you want. I know the NF cam is a great cam don't get me wrong the numbers and power are there but not the track times. Just depends on what you want, I'm sure the NF cam shine in a roll or highway race.

I would say sub 11.5 cam only isn't bad. Has a lot to do with the driver and etc so track times are not the best comparison IMO.

[TwentyTen2SSRS]

Man I am a noob at this.. I wanna get a new cam for the power additions but don't know what all else needs to be changed upgraded to achieve that.

Guess I'll have to do some reading.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

[SolomonAKOO]

Go to the DIY section and there is a DIY for installing a cam. It has everything listed in there that you'll need in order to do the install. The DIY is done by Robertway I believe

[christianchevell]

Also you will note on my posts it says nothing about the need to break in the cam and springs in the DIY cam install which is a very good post,,,,also the need to change the oil right after the thirty minutes you have to heat treat the cam and springs by running them at over a certain rpm..like 2000 at least for at least thirty minutes then letting them cool down............. oh but what do us old school hotrodders know...... You want a cam to grind itself to death and ruin your engine just ignore me and just drive it everywhere without a tune and break in for the cam......... And I buy my cam from experience not because it has a name like the " oh boy" cam and I have installed my cams in my engines long before some of you were born...........and if you cannot understand what I write well you do not know squat then, as TSP states its cams are the best and back that up........ so I am the king of paste ..what ever.....

TSP's all new line of LS3 camshafts are a result of months of engine dyno camshaft development using our state of the art Superflow 902 engine dyno. Using a brand new LS3 crate engine we started from scratch to build the most power LS3 camshafts available in the country.

The 235/239 camshaft uses a all new proprietary intake lobe designed to offer extra duration while maintaining proper p/v clearance for stock piston ls3/ l92 engines. The result of these lobe design changes is a camshaft that makes more power than the popular 231/236 camshaft while still maintaining good p/v clearance! (check dyno sheet above) LS3 computers can easily be tuned to drive great with this camshaft with some bucking bellow 1500 rpm. M6 cars or automatic cars with stall converter 2800rpm or larger required. We recommend this camshaft for LS3 or LS2 engines using L92/LS3 rectangle port cylinder heads!

Specs:
3-bolt 235/239 .639"/623" 112 LSA *camshaft is also available in wider LSA


Aggressive intake lobe requires the use of a Precision Race Components EHT Spring Kit!

This cam spanks a night fury cam............ And I am sure there are even better full race cams as yes they are out there yet it comes to maximizing what you want to do with the car and if it still going to be a daily driver. Read up on the specs of cams and figure it out for yourself. If someone only gets 480 h.p. with all the goodies like headers, throttle body, custom tune, CAI 3" exhaust etc etc on one cam and someone else can get over 500 h.p. with a nice flatter higher torque curve alll across the board and the same exact parts except the cam....well you be the judge. And yes there are parrots on here spouting stuff of which they know nothing about, And I did not Run just 350's I ran 283's 327's 302's 377's 383's and my favorite 406's my last had dart iron eagle heads that out flowed the best of Edlebrock were custom drilled for the steam ports required for between the cylinder cooling, had roller rockers, hardened pushrods, airgap intake, spectre linkage, demon carb, tri y headers, Custom curved HEI and made well above 450 h.p. with 10.5 to one compression off keith black pistons........... Oh Gee can someone understand that? And god don't want to get into all the non gm engines like ford 429's, dodge elephants and heck even ...get this fixed up a YUGO once just to mess with a red headed stepchild....

To do a good cam install some will say oh you need a oil pump....( the stock unit flows well), they will say you need a upgraded timing chain...which is nice yet adds $500 to drop the pan and then replace....and do not get a double roller as you would need a new timing cover etc.... Some will insist the stock oil pump is insufficient, well the cars are not idling like my old school rods around 600-650 rpm now adays as they are fuel injected and get much better mileage and the oil pressure will stay up and do fine unless your into using a full synthetic oil without the proper minerals in it that can not bond easily to synthetic, ( its a chemical thing), so that is why I run just the dexos fifty fifty.... Seems I read one too many posts of engine parts failure like oil pump and lifters and such with mobile one.

I am using a ls2 damper on my timing chain and ditching the stock ls3 tensioner as per my builders instructions. Theres different schools of thoughts on that, yet I go with what I believe is the best and necessary ......... And the stock tensioner has been known to contribute plastic to the oil pan on occasion and I never ran a tensioner on any motor I built, let alone to think of one being plastic guiding a metal chain remind me of the damn nylon timing gears ford and gm did for a while that fell apart in the engine...... Then again what I am just a old school hot rodder who remembers boat anchors like the chevy 307 which was made with too little nickel in the block causing it to wear out way too quick, or the ford 400 which was a turd compared to the chevy 400 and required a valley gasket under the intake to keep it sealed made of metal and going across the valley...and even ford mechanics said it sucked.
Well anyway you would need to pick out a cam or cam package, which I am going with TSP texas speed and performance package for their best cam for a ls3. And it will come with the cam, springs good to .675 lift that I pay $50 more for, 7.425 length hardened pushrods that are longer than stock and longer than many have put on there cars not knowing that 7.4 usually recommended is not long enough given the decrease in base circle of the new cam compared to stock, and the need for lifter preload to be just right, ( I go with what my builder recommends) Now I do not have a cam card yet as I am waiting to get money very soon to do this venture..about $4300 with taxes to install the cam headers, and dyno tune my car in a shop in another state with HP tuners.
Also you will need a good harmonic balancer as the variations of the cars new cam shaft will make the harmonic balancer way off compared to the way it should be covering a much wider range... so you get one of those, TSP has a nice one for only $220 with both belts needed as its a 25 %underdrive which will net slightly 8-10 more h.p. without affecting accessories hardly at all.

And you will need a cam gasket kit $62 with a new crank bolt for the balancer as the old one is shot after using it to pull the new balancer on ....... P.s. the ls2 damper is $19. And you should get g.m. multilayer steel exhaust gaskets for the headers.... , and know that the cam kit you are ordering should be a three bolt kit with the g.m. timing gear three bolt and it will be stronger than the johnny come lately one bolt design. SO then you need to pick headers to do as its the perfect time getting it dyno tuned..... I went with>>>> ANd there are a lot of different opinions on this,:
Stainless Power from Maryland speed, for $712 for 1 7/8" with cats, the same as Stainless works basically but made overseas with the quality checked by stainless works and the only difference being elongated bolt holes on the overseas headers compared to just a round bolt hole on the U.S. made...that and being made overseas, and having only a two year warranty compared to a lifetime warranty with the same 304 stainless....its worth it to save $500 for me to go with the import, and the price is great with no one able to beat it I could find or have comparable quality , (TSP headers are supposed to have some fitment issues and cost more slightly and everyone I found who used these loved them without the fitment issues). Also these headers come with the 02 extensions and bolts ...the hi temp silicon is a joke and No good old school rodder would use it that's the reason for the metal header gaskets as headers love to blow out their gaskets........ Something I guess us old school guys would know, also Keep a eye on the acidity of your antifreeze in the future as it gets acidic...sure a hydrometer can tell you hey its still colorful and gives you protection to what ever degrees.... But you need a Litmus test strip to keep a eye on the antifreeze acidity as its not reacting with iron and rust etc and turning brown...its just in aluminum and can eat at a head gasket from its acid over time if not changed like every three years or so with a total flush.
Yes having a aluminum block is nice with aluminum heads,( I used to always have to go back and retorque all my heads and intakes due to the difference in expansion and contraction of the different metals every thirty thousand miles if they were aluminum on cast iron......) And this is something that kept many mechanics employed changing head gaskets, or someone is lucky just tightening head bolts etc..... And I am going to keep a eye on my plastic intake... Ford rangers really had trouble with theres......

Well I am just rambling Anyway good luck to you all, And remember the longer you live the more you know you do not know anything, and have so much more to learn.
Heck maybe I could just copy someone else's post and make a smart AZZ comment cuz I am so friggin smart.

[christianchevell]

And if your really trying for speed your going to want to get all new poly bushings for the rear cradle and better trailing arms and toe links, and maybe even better gears as they multiply the torque the difference between a 3.45 rear and a 3.91 rear is like 13% more torque, and for handling better sways to stop the body roll etc...... I like the price of BMR stiff myself as there are a lot of companies selling stuff out there.... Good luck, Oh and for those who do not understand what " Proprietary " stands for it means they spent so much time developing it and its unique so they have applied for or gotten a patent , and its not just the latest new thing as I have seen this over and over through time as why put all that time into making something then have someone rip it off..... Or have someone say hey its our "flying monkey butt cam" and charge a lot more for it....... Of course if your into just feeding the vendors here.......

[Camarojt]

Dyno #'s don't mean anything without track results backing it up. GPI is the top choice that not only can pop the numbers out on the dyno, he also is at the TOP of the Fast List and was the 1st cam only car in the 10's. Nobody else can boast that. There may be a couple places since then that have done as good, but Rhino was the 1st to break the barrier!

[B-_-RAD]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

Also you will note on my posts it says nothing about the need to break in the cam and springs in the DIY cam install which is a very good post,,,,also the need to change the oil right after the thirty minutes you have to heat treat the cam and springs by running them at over a certain rpm..like 2000 at least for at least thirty minutes then letting them cool down............. oh but what do us old school hotrodders know...... You want a cam to grind itself to death and ruin your engine just ignore me and just drive it everywhere without a tune and break in for the cam......... And I buy my cam from experience not because it has a name like the " oh boy" cam and I have installed my cams in my engines long before some of you were born...........and if you cannot understand what I write well you do not know squat then, as TSP states its cams are the best and back that up........ so I am the king of paste ..what ever.....

TSP's all new line of LS3 camshafts are a result of months of engine dyno camshaft development using our state of the art Superflow 902 engine dyno. Using a brand new LS3 crate engine we started from scratch to build the most power LS3 camshafts available in the country.

The 235/239 camshaft uses a all new proprietary intake lobe designed to offer extra duration while maintaining proper p/v clearance for stock piston ls3/ l92 engines. The result of these lobe design changes is a camshaft that makes more power than the popular 231/236 camshaft while still maintaining good p/v clearance! (check dyno sheet above) LS3 computers can easily be tuned to drive great with this camshaft with some bucking bellow 1500 rpm. M6 cars or automatic cars with stall converter 2800rpm or larger required. We recommend this camshaft for LS3 or LS2 engines using L92/LS3 rectangle port cylinder heads!

Specs:
3-bolt 235/239 .639"/623" 112 LSA *camshaft is also available in wider LSA


Aggressive intake lobe requires the use of a Precision Race Components EHT Spring Kit!

This cam spanks a night fury cam............ And I am sure there are even better full race cams as yes they are out there yet it comes to maximizing what you want to do with the car and if it still going to be a daily driver. Read up on the specs of cams and figure it out for yourself. If someone only gets 480 h.p. with all the goodies like headers, throttle body, custom tune, CAI 3" exhaust etc etc on one cam and someone else can get over 500 h.p. with a nice flatter higher torque curve alll across the board and the same exact parts except the cam....well you be the judge. And yes there are parrots on here spouting stuff of which they know nothing about, And I did not Run just 350's I ran 283's 327's 302's 377's 383's and my favorite 406's my last had dart iron eagle heads that out flowed the best of Edlebrock were custom drilled for the steam ports required for between the cylinder cooling, had roller rockers, hardened pushrods, airgap intake, spectre linkage, demon carb, tri y headers, Custom curved HEI and made well above 450 h.p. with 10.5 to one compression off keith black pistons........... Oh Gee can someone understand that? And god don't want to get into all the non gm engines like ford 429's, dodge elephants and heck even ...get this fixed up a YUGO once just to mess with a red headed stepchild....

To do a good cam install some will say oh you need a oil pump....( the stock unit flows well), they will say you need a upgraded timing chain...which is nice yet adds $500 to drop the pan and then replace....and do not get a double roller as you would need a new timing cover etc.... Some will insist the stock oil pump is insufficient, well the cars are not idling like my old school rods around 600-650 rpm now adays as they are fuel injected and get much better mileage and the oil pressure will stay up and do fine unless your into using a full synthetic oil without the proper minerals in it that can not bond easily to synthetic, ( its a chemical thing), so that is why I run just the dexos fifty fifty.... Seems I read one too many posts of engine parts failure like oil pump and lifters and such with mobile one.

I am using a ls2 damper on my timing chain and ditching the stock ls3 tensioner as per my builders instructions. Theres different schools of thoughts on that, yet I go with what I believe is the best and necessary ......... And the stock tensioner has been known to contribute plastic to the oil pan on occasion and I never ran a tensioner on any motor I built, let alone to think of one being plastic guiding a metal chain remind me of the damn nylon timing gears ford and gm did for a while that fell apart in the engine...... Then again what I am just a old school hot rodder who remembers boat anchors like the chevy 307 which was made with too little nickel in the block causing it to wear out way too quick, or the ford 400 which was a turd compared to the chevy 400 and required a valley gasket under the intake to keep it sealed made of metal and going across the valley...and even ford mechanics said it sucked.
Well anyway you would need to pick out a cam or cam package, which I am going with TSP texas speed and performance package for their best cam for a ls3. And it will come with the cam, springs good to .675 lift that I pay $50 more for, 7.425 length hardened pushrods that are longer than stock and longer than many have put on there cars not knowing that 7.4 usually recommended is not long enough given the decrease in base circle of the new cam compared to stock, and the need for lifter preload to be just right, ( I go with what my builder recommends) Now I do not have a cam card yet as I am waiting to get money very soon to do this venture..about $4300 with taxes to install the cam headers, and dyno tune my car in a shop in another state with HP tuners.
Also you will need a good harmonic balancer as the variations of the cars new cam shaft will make the harmonic balancer way off compared to the way it should be covering a much wider range... so you get one of those, TSP has a nice one for only $220 with both belts needed as its a 25 %underdrive which will net slightly 8-10 more h.p. without affecting accessories hardly at all.

And you will need a cam gasket kit $62 with a new crank bolt for the balancer as the old one is shot after using it to pull the new balancer on ....... P.s. the ls2 damper is $19. And you should get g.m. multilayer steel exhaust gaskets for the headers.... , and know that the cam kit you are ordering should be a three bolt kit with the g.m. timing gear three bolt and it will be stronger than the johnny come lately one bolt design. SO then you need to pick headers to do as its the perfect time getting it dyno tuned..... I went with>>>> ANd there are a lot of different opinions on this,:
Stainless Power from Maryland speed, for $712 for 1 7/8" with cats, the same as Stainless works basically but made overseas with the quality checked by stainless works and the only difference being elongated bolt holes on the overseas headers compared to just a round bolt hole on the U.S. made...that and being made overseas, and having only a two year warranty compared to a lifetime warranty with the same 304 stainless....its worth it to save $500 for me to go with the import, and the price is great with no one able to beat it I could find or have comparable quality , (TSP headers are supposed to have some fitment issues and cost more slightly and everyone I found who used these loved them without the fitment issues). Also these headers come with the 02 extensions and bolts ...the hi temp silicon is a joke and No good old school rodder would use it that's the reason for the metal header gaskets as headers love to blow out their gaskets........ Something I guess us old school guys would know, also Keep a eye on the acidity of your antifreeze in the future as it gets acidic...sure a hydrometer can tell you hey its still colorful and gives you protection to what ever degrees.... But you need a Litmus test strip to keep a eye on the antifreeze acidity as its not reacting with iron and rust etc and turning brown...its just in aluminum and can eat at a head gasket from its acid over time if not changed like every three years or so with a total flush.
Yes having a aluminum block is nice with aluminum heads,( I used to always have to go back and retorque all my heads and intakes due to the difference in expansion and contraction of the different metals every thirty thousand miles if they were aluminum on cast iron......) And this is something that kept many mechanics employed changing head gaskets, or someone is lucky just tightening head bolts etc..... And I am going to keep a eye on my plastic intake... Ford rangers really had trouble with theres......

Well I am just rambling Anyway good luck to you all, And remember the longer you live the more you know you do not know anything, and have so much more to learn.
Heck maybe I could just copy someone else's post and make a smart AZZ comment cuz I am so friggin smart.

Your posts are absolutely unreadable, holy run on sentence batman.

[bhillakaiceberg]

Originally Posted by B-_-RAD

Your posts are absolutely unreadable, holy run on sentence batman.

[vroomapunk]

Originally Posted by B-_-RAD

I would say sub 11.5 cam only isn't bad. Has a lot to do with the driver and etc so track times are not the best comparison IMO.

Right, its very hard to compare.

Track times can change with driver, prep, weather, and other supporting mods like suspension and tires.

Dyno #s can change depending on the weather, dyno brand, supporting mods, etc, etc.

Very tough to compare apples to apples when looking for a cam and people start citing track times and/or dyno #s.

If you go off of the best track times that other people get alone, you will be very sad if you arent as good of a driver as them, have slicks, great weather, great track prep, and a little bit of luck.

If you go off of the highest dyno numbers, you will also be sad if you dont have the best tuner, a happy dyno, great weather, and optimal conditions (and if you dont have a cam with high peak #s)

A particular setup (same mods, similarly spec'd cam, similar tune, etc etc) that performs consistently with different drivers and different dynos is what would be best, if that existed, but it doesnt really. After you get past a few boltons, comparability starts going down. Unless the two cars get dyno'd/race on the same day at the same time, with multiple runs each, and the drivers switch cars haha.

Go with a shop that has good reviews, good results, right price, quality service, etc etc. And you should be good. Even if you do the work yourself (like me), its good to have a shop help with your parts list, tunes, problems, etc.


IMHO, I say dyno #s are a decent comparison for just the cam, and track times arent bad backup. But you wouldnt cite track times when you shop for headers and intakes, a dyno graph will shop where the improvements are, and how much you are improving over your baseline. Same with a cam IMO.

To me, its the only way to compare/test a single engine component. If you want to compare which is a better car as a whole, then track times will tell you that.

[trw427ss]

Originally Posted by vroomapunk

Right, its very hard to compare.

Track times can change with driver, prep, weather, and other supporting mods like suspension and tires.

Dyno #s can change depending on the weather, dyno brand, supporting mods, etc, etc.

Very tough to compare apples to apples when looking for a cam and people start citing track times and/or dyno #s.

If you go off of the best track times that other people get alone, you will be very sad if you arent as good of a driver as them, have slicks, great weather, great track prep, and a little bit of luck.

If you go off of the highest dyno numbers, you will also be sad if you dont have the best tuner, a happy dyno, great weather, and optimal conditions (and if you dont have a cam with high peak #s)

A particular setup (same mods, similarly spec'd cam, similar tune, etc etc) that performs consistently with different drivers and different dynos is what would be best, if that existed, but it doesnt really. After you get past a few boltons, comparability starts going down. Unless the two cars get dyno'd/race on the same day at the same time, with multiple runs each, and the drivers switch cars haha.

Go with a shop that has good reviews, good results, right price, quality service, etc etc. And you should be good. Even if you do the work yourself (like me), its good to have a shop help with your parts list, tunes, problems, etc.


IMHO, I say dyno #s are a decent comparison for just the cam, and track times arent bad backup. But you wouldnt cite track times when you shop for headers and intakes, a dyno graph will shop where the improvements are, and how much you are improving over your baseline. Same with a cam IMO.

To me, its the only way to compare/test a single engine component. If you want to compare which is a better car as a whole, then track times will tell you that.

Have you ran your car at the track? If so what did it run?