Just checked my oil catch can - wow - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

NeedlessKane · 11-20-2016, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MPrento84

100% agree.

Didn't they revise the valve cover design after the early years so the pcv didn't pick up as much oil splashing around?

My car is a 2010 and it catches a lot, I'd say about 1oz per 1,000 miles.

I've seen more posts about 2010 cars catching the most vs other years it seems.

Maybe I have checked it since the oil change. I'm starting to second guess myself now.

Anyway - point being is that I am changing my oil today and will monitor it every 500 miles as well as going to send an oil sample out to a lab to get tested.

Divindirty · 11-20-2016, 12:24 PM

just a opinion? but I think the amount of oil going into the can is a indication of possible crankcase pressure blowing the oil around quite a bit more ! this could be either high millage or a decrease in oil life making the oil thiner and less protective? a simple leak down test on the cyl at engine temp would give you a good test if theres actually something going on or if its just worn out oil? I think oil color alone is a good indication to the life of the oil? if its starting to turn dark I change mine regardless of low miles or not? if its still clear golden then im good. never see that much oil in a catch can, but ive never gone that long either?

JCunningham · 11-21-2016, 02:45 AM

everyone saying 10,000 is too long. Get a blackstone report. even GM recommends 7500miles with the computer. im cammed running Amsoil ZRod 10w30 and blackstone told me to test the new oil at 8000 miles. At 6500 the oil was still very good and didnt need to be changed. My 67 f250 had a 6500mile oil change. 3k is a sales gimmick made up by add men to sell more oil.

Elite Engineering · 11-21-2016, 10:42 AM

Hey all,

Want to share some guidelines on caring for your catchcan. First, as we have shown many times, the average can only traps between 15-30% so choosing the right one is critical. Want to test yourself? Take any of the "billet" cans (moroso, Billet xxx, the MM, etc. and install a Elite E2-X or E2 Catch Can inline AFTER the other can and run 1000 miles and check both. You will find the E2 and E2-X will trap as much or more that got past the first can, no matter what the brand claims. So effectiveness is key. Now do the same test in reverse and see almost nothing gets past these effective designs.

Next, NEVER let your can get more than 1/3 full. For small cans with only 2-3oz capacity, that can happen in short order. DO not choose by appearance alone or ease to fit as it is not going to prevent the issues you wish to prevent. If you allow the can to fill more than 1/3 full, then what has been caught begins to be drawn through making it useless.

With port injection engines running full synthetic, you can safely go 8-10k miles of normal driving between changes, BUT a GDI engine experiences many times the amount of raw fuel washdown past the rings than a PI engine, and the particulate matter shed from the valve coking is a hard crystalline abrasive material VS the soft carbon of past, so add the water and sulfuric acid content and GDI engines quickly overwhelm the engine oils ability to protect. So 5k max is our recommendation.

Next, NEVER use a solvent based engine running cleaning on a GDI engine!!! Port injection and carbureted engines can be done safely, but the hard abrasive make up of the GDI deposits cause scouring (scratches) to the pistons and cylinder walls when the smaller particles are forced between them during this process. This also is responsible for a high incidence of catalytic converter failures from the amount of material hitting the catalyst and the shock of the solvent hitting the red hot catalyst.

Turbo engines these impact the hot side turbine wheel damaging the leading edges as well as it is expelled.

Always run a FULL synthetic with any GDI engine. The blends the dealer push on GDI engines leaves many times the amount of deposits when burned onto the valves as a full syn does, and just look at engine failures and timing chain issues with all GDI engines not running full synthetic.

Always use top tier fuel or a monthly in tank additive to keep injectors clean as even the smallest disruption in a GDI injectors creates droplets and burn issues as well as additional fuel wash down.

And, what is caught in a good effective designed can is far more than oil. In fact, a lab analysis puts the average drain as follows:

70% acidic water
23% un burnt fuel
7% oil and abrasive particulate matter

This is from a GDI drain. A port injection drain will have less fuel and water due to the intense cylinder pressures of a GDI engine and the fuel introduced at 2,000-3,000 PSI is what forces so much more raw fuel past the rings into the crankcase.

We have before and after dyno studies of GDI engines and manual valve cleanings, etc. if anyone wants to see, just ask.

Now, on a port injection engine, the main advantages of a good system is reduced KR form scrubbing the PCV vapors of disrupting oil and other contaminates and also keeping the oil cleaner longer by removing (evacuating) these contaminates before they have a chance to settle and mix with the oil. Remember, your oil filter only traps down to a particulate size of 15-10 microns, and 70% plus of internal wear comes from contaminates smaller then 10 microns, so the filter is not trapping these. And water and fuel and acid, once in the oil, much is there to stay aside from what can "flash off" with temps, but if not evacuated, it will re-condense when the engine cools.

We here at Elite Engineering USA not only do more research, engineering, and interaction with the industry as a whole than any other air/oil separating brand we know of. And that keeps us always at the leading edge of solutions and information to share with you, the consumer. A company of actual Engineers that make all systems here in the USA, and again, our "catchcan Challenge" is always open to prove there are no other more effective systems available than our latest designs.

sscamaro · 11-21-2016, 12:28 PM

I installed the Elite catch can in Sept. of 2010 after installing the E-Force S/C. The last couple of years I emptied it with 7K miles(1 year). I only got 1 1/4" of oil in it. I do check it about twice a year though. I had to make another bracket because of relocating the catch can after installing the S/C.

Yknjack · 11-21-2016, 03:48 PM

So , a GDI engine is many times less efficient than a PI engine since there is much more raw fuel washing down the cylinder ? How do the V6 engines get 28 mpg then? I realize the psi is high to get the GDI system to induce fuel into the cylinder but how does that equate into more raw fuel that is wasted unburned? I would think the emissions of such a scenario would be prohibitive.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

custommx3 · 11-22-2016, 11:06 AM

The manual..

Mr. Stacy · 11-22-2016, 12:48 PM

My "Oil Life" indicator maxes out at 5k.

maddoggyusa · 11-22-2016, 01:01 PM

nobody will ever agree... but I have a new Malibu with over 200k miles always using Mobil 1. runs perfect and often went over 10k miles no problem but now it uses a quart of oil every 3-5,000 miles.

not sure if it would make a difference but in hindsight... I will change every 5k miles. oil is cheap

and it's not so much the oil its the filter... even the Mobil 1 filters I believe are rated for 7500 miles.

11-21-2016, 02:45 AM	#31
JCunningham Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: WNY Posts: 7,069	everyone saying 10,000 is too long. Get a blackstone report. even GM recommends 7500miles with the computer. im cammed running Amsoil ZRod 10w30 and blackstone told me to test the new oil at 8000 miles. At 6500 the oil was still very good and didnt need to be changed. My 67 f250 had a 6500mile oil change. 3k is a sales gimmick made up by add men to sell more oil. __________________ real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1

11-22-2016, 11:06 AM	#35
custommx3 Drives: 2017 2SS, 2023 3LT RS, 2011 2LT RS Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Memphis Posts: 366 View My Garage	The manual.. Attached Images

11-22-2016, 12:48 PM	#36
Mr. Stacy El Duderino Drives: 2011 2LTRS Convertible Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Seattle Posts: 2,194 View My Garage	My "Oil Life" indicator maxes out at 5k. __________________ I bowl. Drive around. The occasional acid flashback.

11-20-2016, 12:24 PM	#30
Divindirty Drives: Camaro 2ss/rs Join Date: May 2016 Location: Inland empire Posts: 78	just a opinion? but I think the amount of oil going into the can is a indication of possible crankcase pressure blowing the oil around quite a bit more ! this could be either high millage or a decrease in oil life making the oil thiner and less protective? a simple leak down test on the cyl at engine temp would give you a good test if theres actually something going on or if its just worn out oil? I think oil color alone is a good indication to the life of the oil? if its starting to turn dark I change mine regardless of low miles or not? if its still clear golden then im good. never see that much oil in a catch can, but ive never gone that long either?

11-21-2016, 10:42 AM	#32
Elite Engineering Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Denver Posts: 1,383	Hey all, Want to share some guidelines on caring for your catchcan. First, as we have shown many times, the average can only traps between 15-30% so choosing the right one is critical. Want to test yourself? Take any of the "billet" cans (moroso, Billet xxx, the MM, etc. and install a Elite E2-X or E2 Catch Can inline AFTER the other can and run 1000 miles and check both. You will find the E2 and E2-X will trap as much or more that got past the first can, no matter what the brand claims. So effectiveness is key. Now do the same test in reverse and see almost nothing gets past these effective designs. Next, NEVER let your can get more than 1/3 full. For small cans with only 2-3oz capacity, that can happen in short order. DO not choose by appearance alone or ease to fit as it is not going to prevent the issues you wish to prevent. If you allow the can to fill more than 1/3 full, then what has been caught begins to be drawn through making it useless. With port injection engines running full synthetic, you can safely go 8-10k miles of normal driving between changes, BUT a GDI engine experiences many times the amount of raw fuel washdown past the rings than a PI engine, and the particulate matter shed from the valve coking is a hard crystalline abrasive material VS the soft carbon of past, so add the water and sulfuric acid content and GDI engines quickly overwhelm the engine oils ability to protect. So 5k max is our recommendation. Next, NEVER use a solvent based engine running cleaning on a GDI engine!!! Port injection and carbureted engines can be done safely, but the hard abrasive make up of the GDI deposits cause scouring (scratches) to the pistons and cylinder walls when the smaller particles are forced between them during this process. This also is responsible for a high incidence of catalytic converter failures from the amount of material hitting the catalyst and the shock of the solvent hitting the red hot catalyst. Turbo engines these impact the hot side turbine wheel damaging the leading edges as well as it is expelled. Always run a FULL synthetic with any GDI engine. The blends the dealer push on GDI engines leaves many times the amount of deposits when burned onto the valves as a full syn does, and just look at engine failures and timing chain issues with all GDI engines not running full synthetic. Always use top tier fuel or a monthly in tank additive to keep injectors clean as even the smallest disruption in a GDI injectors creates droplets and burn issues as well as additional fuel wash down. And, what is caught in a good effective designed can is far more than oil. In fact, a lab analysis puts the average drain as follows: 70% acidic water 23% un burnt fuel 7% oil and abrasive particulate matter This is from a GDI drain. A port injection drain will have less fuel and water due to the intense cylinder pressures of a GDI engine and the fuel introduced at 2,000-3,000 PSI is what forces so much more raw fuel past the rings into the crankcase. We have before and after dyno studies of GDI engines and manual valve cleanings, etc. if anyone wants to see, just ask. Now, on a port injection engine, the main advantages of a good system is reduced KR form scrubbing the PCV vapors of disrupting oil and other contaminates and also keeping the oil cleaner longer by removing (evacuating) these contaminates before they have a chance to settle and mix with the oil. Remember, your oil filter only traps down to a particulate size of 15-10 microns, and 70% plus of internal wear comes from contaminates smaller then 10 microns, so the filter is not trapping these. And water and fuel and acid, once in the oil, much is there to stay aside from what can "flash off" with temps, but if not evacuated, it will re-condense when the engine cools. We here at Elite Engineering USA not only do more research, engineering, and interaction with the industry as a whole than any other air/oil separating brand we know of. And that keeps us always at the leading edge of solutions and information to share with you, the consumer. A company of actual Engineers that make all systems here in the USA, and again, our "catchcan Challenge" is always open to prove there are no other more effective systems available than our latest designs.

11-21-2016, 12:28 PM	#33
sscamaro Drives: 2010 2SS, 2017 Silverado LTZ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Denver,PA Posts: 3,195 View My Garage	I installed the Elite catch can in Sept. of 2010 after installing the E-Force S/C. The last couple of years I emptied it with 7K miles(1 year). I only got 1 1/4" of oil in it. I do check it about twice a year though. I had to make another bracket because of relocating the catch can after installing the S/C.

11-21-2016, 03:48 PM	#34
Yknjack Yknjack Drives: 2014 Yellow RS Vert Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Seattle Posts: 36	So , a GDI engine is many times less efficient than a PI engine since there is much more raw fuel washing down the cylinder ? How do the V6 engines get 28 mpg then? I realize the psi is high to get the GDI system to induce fuel into the cylinder but how does that equate into more raw fuel that is wasted unburned? I would think the emissions of such a scenario would be prohibitive. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

11-22-2016, 01:01 PM	#37
maddoggyusa Drives: 2013 Camaro Dusk 2SS/6 Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,586	nobody will ever agree... but I have a new Malibu with over 200k miles always using Mobil 1. runs perfect and often went over 10k miles no problem but now it uses a quart of oil every 3-5,000 miles. not sure if it would make a difference but in hindsight... I will change every 5k miles. oil is cheap and it's not so much the oil its the filter... even the Mobil 1 filters I believe are rated for 7500 miles.