Did an entire exhaust delete, catback

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by Teeth

What kind of headers would you recommend? I was looking at some Kooks headers to start off with.

Figure out your budget first.

Kooks are great headers but they are very expensive. You can get very good, brand new headers for between $279 - $600 that will include everything you need to complete the job. That will allow you to save money for other mods, like a tune, or for your pocket.

Also, if you intend to reinstall that exhaust, you would need to use a 'Slip-Fit' style header. Long Tube headers have a few different style collector flanges (The part of the header that bolts to your existing exhaust) and Slip-Fit is the style that will bolt right up to your existing exhaust.

[Teeth]

Originally Posted by 15RS2NV

While the noise level may be within legal limit, the exhaust exit must be past the last opening window. Rear side windows don't open on a Camaro so your exhaust must exit somewhere after the door window. You can add a straight pipe then side turnout just before the rear wheels, or modify your old exhaust as many previously have said to get the sound you want.

I had a 3/4T Chevy truck that had Headers and 3' of straight pipe. Loud as hell! Loved it, but the 3' of pipe was to get it past the doors.

I assume that's for the CO poisoning not getting in the cabin, right?

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Figure out your budget first.

Kooks are great headers but they are very expensive. You can get very good, brand new headers for between $279 - $600 that will include everything you need to complete the job. That will allow you to save money for other mods, like a tune, or for your pocket.

Also, if you intend to reinstall that exhaust, you would need to use a 'Slip-Fit' style header. Long Tube headers have a few different style collector flanges (The part of the header that bolts to your existing exhaust) and Slip-Fit is the style that will bolt right up to your existing exhaust.

Is the attached image the sort of part you're talking about?

[pyroguy]

I agree with InFiD3ViL, it all depends on your budget. If you're looking for some budget friendly catless headers (which will be the loudest) then check out Speed Engineering. However, be prepared to have to dimple a tube in at least one place. Not every set requires "massaging", but more do than don't. The benefit is that you can get them for under $400. I'm personally running Kooks headers with high flow cats and I can't be happier. If higher priced headers like Kooks, ARH, or Stainless Works aren't quite in your budget range then check out Stainless Power and Texas Speed. They also offer high flow cats and are decent headers for a little less price than the high dollar ones. Just don't forget to leave room for a tune in your budget as you will need one to eliminate the check engine light from the increased flow and moved position of the primary O2 sensors.

The advantage of this whole thing is that you have the original exhaust still. Open up the clamps and trash the remaining portion of your factory cats and bolt the exhaust up to some new long tube headers with or without high flow cats and see what you think of your catback exhaust.

[gtstorey]

He means get a header with this type end
https://www.speed-engineering.com/sh...stainless.html

and not one that has a V band, 3 bolt or some other connector that has to have a mating piece on the other end of your exhaust like
https://www.phastekperformance.com/J...ube-36813s.htm

[Teeth]

When do you guys think I should take care of all of this? Will I be able to put the process off for a few months or so?

Is simply welding the old system back on going to be fine until I can really figure out this car?

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by Teeth

When do you guys think I should take care of all of this? Will I be able to put the process off for a few months or so?

Is simply welding the old system back on going to be fine until I can really figure out this car?

It all depends on your budget, as we cannot make these decisions for you. If you have the money to get that exhaust welded back on I would say go for it. As long as they are capable at welding exhaust, it should be perfectly fine. If it was my car I probably would drive it as little as possible with the exhaust dumping where it is and with a check engine light on. You will likely get tired of the drone and fumes fairly quickly.

I would have them remove the O2 sensors during the welding process though, this way they don't get damaged by the inevitable spatter from wire feed welders. I know this seems like common sense, but some shops will do exactly what you tell them without offering any valid advice or input. Then after its reinstalled they can just screw the sensors back in. This way you don't wind up having to replace those sensors as well.

You seem like a good guy that maybe just jumped into something without much research. It happens to all of us, so don't beat yourself up over this. Its fixable. The fact that you are willing to listen to other peoples advice is a great thing, as that is not always the case here. For some of us, our first reaction when we see something like this is 'WTF?!' But when we realize it is someone that just needs some good information and direction...well, this forum can be a godsend and tends to adjust to the attitude of the thread creator. Some people actually get hostile if you criticize their decisions and will fight to the end to defend a weird choice. That is usually when we will say "Your car and money, your choice". We just want to help save you money and headache and to help you enjoy that awesome ride you have. Just keep in mind that no matter what advice is given here, the ultimate decision is always yours. Take as much advice from as many sources as possible, filter out the crap, and come to the decision that best fits your budget and goals.

Just remember, there is no question or scenario that is too stupid to ask here. We have members that know nearly nothing about cars and the platform all the way to expert engine builders and lifelong GM techs. This place is an absolutely invaluable resource.

[Greenhornet2]

You can put the old exhaust back up by welding, or even band clamps to get you by as long as they are the right size. I have band clamps on mine right now. They work well enough

[Teeth]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

It all depends on your budget, as we cannot make these decisions for you. If you have the money to get that exhaust welded back on I would say go for it. As long as they are capable at welding exhaust, it should be perfectly fine. If it was my car I probably would drive it as little as possible with the exhaust dumping where it is and with a check engine light on. You will likely get tired of the drone and fumes fairly quickly.

I would have them remove the O2 sensors during the welding process though, this way they don't get damaged by the inevitable spatter from wire feed welders. I know this seems like common sense, but some shops will do exactly what you tell them without offering any valid advice or input. Then after its reinstalled they can just screw the sensors back in. This way you don't wind up having to replace those sensors as well.

You seem like a good guy that maybe just jumped into something without much research. It happens to all of us, so don't beat yourself up over this. Its fixable. The fact that you are willing to listen to other peoples advice is a great thing, as that is not always the case here. For some of us, our first reaction when we see something like this is 'WTF?!' But when we realize it is someone that just needs some good information and direction...well, this forum can be a godsend and tends to adjust to the attitude of the thread creator. Some people actually get hostile if you criticize their decisions and will fight to the end to defend a weird choice. That is usually when we will say "Your car and money, your choice". We just want to help save you money and headache and to help you enjoy that awesome ride you have. Just keep in mind that no matter what advice is given here, the ultimate decision is always yours. Take as much advice from as many sources as possible, filter out the crap, and come to the decision that best fits your budget and goals.

Just remember, there is no question or scenario that is too stupid to ask here. We have members that know nearly nothing about cars and the platform all the way to expert engine builders and lifelong GM techs. This place is an absolutely invaluable resource.

I did jump the gun, didn't put much thought into it at all, lol.

I do have another question to ask though, what do you think is the HP loss with something like this, and do you think a straightpipe to at least get the exhaust away from the cabin would work well enough until I can get the money to upgrade the system fully?

I was told that the old system could be sold for a good chunk of change, which is a thought I was having, since it would allow me to do a few other MUCH smaller things to the car.

[Greenhornet2]

Straight pipe would work. Not gonna have any noticeable power change.

[Teeth]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

Straight pipe would work. Not gonna have any noticeable power change.

That's more than likely what I'm going to do this weekend, I'll just get the pipes pushed back to the rear axle, if anything.

I don't think there is a huge difference in power, it's just the car sounds louder a lot earlier in the pull. I do worry about not having back-pressure in performance just a little bit though. I feel that with just stock headers I won't get much.

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

Straight pipe would work. Not gonna have any noticeable power change.

Not necessarily. Now, I do not have my own data to prove this, but there have been a few accounts of people deleting their OEM suitcase muffler (L99 w/integrated H pipe like system) or OEM LS3 with factory H pipe for true dual straight pipes only to be very disappointed with the way the car ran. Loss of power, torque, and crappy sound. I am a firm believer in at least some sort of exhaust equalization via either H or X pipe. Supposedly the scavenging effect is great with X pipes allowing better top end power and the H pipes produce better low end torque and a 'truer' muscle car sound. Keep in mind, this is purely anecdotal. If he just needs to get by for now with straight pipes I am sure he can.

I know I am not the only one here that has seen this on the site or heard it before, so hopefully someone else will say something.

[Joecruiser]

I paid a lot of $$$$$ for that same exhaust....
Eventually I'll install headers with hi flo cats and connect to the Borla

[Teeth]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Not necessarily. Now, I do not have my own data to prove this, but there have been a few accounts of people deleting their OEM suitcase muffler (L99 w/integrated H pipe like system) or OEM LS3 with factory H pipe for true dual straight pipes only to be very disappointed with the way the car ran. Loss of power, torque, and crappy sound. I am a firm believer in at least some sort of exhaust equalization via either H or X pipe. Supposedly the scavenging effect is great with X pipes allowing better top end power and the H pipes produce better low end torque and a 'truer' muscle car sound. Keep in mind, this is purely anecdotal. If he just needs to get by for now with straight pipes I am sure he can.

I know I am not the only one here that has seen this on the site or heard it before, so hopefully someone else will say something.

I have until the end of the week to make a decision, going to go into the shop on Saturday morning, not super rushed.

Originally Posted by Joecruiser

I paid a lot of $$$$$ for that same exhaust....
Eventually I'll install headers with hi flo cats and connect to the Borla

Damn, I guess I was the lucky guy to get a car like this

[Greenhornet2]

My point is it will work fine to get him through. Sounds like he was more concerned with sound than power. But he also seems to be looking for a supercharger. Exhaust isnt nearly as critical when boosting as long as it's big enough to pump your extra air. I don't have much backpressure with 1 7/8 headers, no cats and borka atak 2.5 dual.