So it's okay to "delete" the oil cooler?

[RickyC]

Originally Posted by 0stones0

Thanks for the info on the socket. Does it need to be a deep-well?

That’s what I meant by “specialized funnel” in previous post. Used it before and really works well.

No standard socket works I did use a 6 point

[RickyC]

Also make sure you are on that fitting flush with the socket and turn it out gently. Aluminum block…..

[0stones0]

Originally Posted by RickyC

Also make sure you are on that fitting flush with the socket and turn it out gently. Aluminum block…..

Roger that.

[el ess A]

Second using the race ramps for adding the coolant. When I refilled mine, everything was easy peasy getting the air out. I also changed all the belts and hoses as a might-as-well when I was in there with the coolant drained. I SHOULD have done the 2012 heater hose mod, but I didn't, just used the original OEM routing parts, so there's that.

[econ]

Originally Posted by RickyC

1 3/8” socket for the block fitting then a 17mm hex socket for the new plug. The coolant filling funnel kit will make getting the air out of the system way easier and also avoiding a huge mess. Turn the temp up to full hot and the fan on high.

Pretty sure it's actually a 34mm.

[econ]

I'm doing this pretty soon too.

I ordered the Improved Racing kit.

Doing a bunch of other things at the same time....

[RickyC]

Originally Posted by econ

Pretty sure it's actually a 34mm.

Could be. My set only goes to 32mm and I have a 36mm for axel nuts which was too big.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by RickyC

Could be. My set only goes to 32mm and I have a 36mm for axel nuts which was too big.

Yes, use a 34mm or the biggest crescent wrench you can find, that will work. Just be careful not to mar the fitting, as it seems pretty delicate. Should be fine though, as my experience with the hard part, was actually getting the fitment to fit the tool and move the tool around, having long tube headers and everything intact. I believe some people remove their front driver side wheel and the fender/wheel well liner, to get better side acess.

I have a 2010 SS with an LS3, while my friends had both the 2011 SS’, with the LS3 and L99’s. I’m not sure which VIN range supposedly was found to have potentially cross-threaded block coolant fittings, but I think it was addressed before the 2012 production model cars came out. Both of my friends had coolant leaking from their fittings, with one of my friends’ 2011 SS having the coolant fitting actually loose and chronically leaking (scary food for thought).

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by el ess A

Second using the race ramps for adding the coolant. When I refilled mine, everything was easy peasy getting the air out. I also changed all the belts and hoses as a might-as-well when I was in there with the coolant drained. I SHOULD have done the 2012 heater hose mod, but I didn't, just used the original OEM routing parts, so there's that.

So, how’d you block off the split “t”-shaped fitting in the 2010-2011 upper radiator hose? I assume you could block it off anywhere down to the hose that reaches the coolant line to the factory oil cooler.

I also saw someone use a huge vacuum cap and hose clamp, and put it over the t-fitting, after removing the hose that goes downwards from the fitting in the middle of the upper rad hose.

[0stones0]

If one leaves the headers on, does the 34mm socket work best or does the crescent wrench gain better access?

[RickyC]

Originally Posted by 0stones0

If one leaves the headers on, does the 34mm socket work best or does the crescent wrench gain better access?

Have headers and the socket works

[0stones0]

Originally Posted by RickyC

Have headers and the socket works

Thanks!

[el ess A]

Originally Posted by TheBrightSide

So, how’d you block off the split “t”-shaped fitting in the 2010-2011 upper radiator hose? I assume you could block it off anywhere down to the hose that reaches the coolant line to the factory oil cooler.

I didn't. I simply got a solid 2012 upper hose which doesn't have the T in it. Problem solved. The 2012-15 used a tap off from the bottom of the radiator instead, so it didn't need the hose T.

But if you really wanted to block off what's there, you could get a nipple and put it on there. I just wanted it to look like it was never there.

[0stones0]

Originally Posted by TheBrightSide

So, how’d you block off the split “t”-shaped fitting in the 2010-2011 upper radiator hose? I assume you could block it off anywhere down to the hose that reaches the coolant line to the factory oil cooler.

I also saw someone use a huge vacuum cap and hose clamp, and put it over the t-fitting, after removing the hose that goes downwards from the fitting in the middle of the upper rad hose.

Originally Posted by el ess A

I didn't. I simply got a solid 2012 upper hose which doesn't have the T in it. Problem solved. The 2012-15 used a tap off from the bottom of the radiator instead, so it didn't need the hose T.

But if you really wanted to block off what's there, you could get a nipple and put it on there. I just wanted it to look like it was never there.

^^^^+1
Most of the kits out there, the upper hose is part of the kit, for 10-12’s.