Do you think that the car needs a separate Clutch Fluid reservoir

[olblue75]

Where does a fellar get the reservoir cant find on ebay and would a vette peice work?

[olblue75]

My bracket
I got a lot of requests about making the bracket I used to mount my reservoir. I made mine by hand with a pc of 1/8" thick aluminum and a grinder. It's really not something that could be produced in a small quantity for a reasonable price so I had my draftsman do a drawing for you guys to copy if you'd like. It should transfer in proportion but I had her include a bunch of numbers on it just in case. I would get your fasteners before you drill the top 2 holes as the size may need to be adjusted.

Have access to a water jet should come out real nice

[justa25thTA]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Where does a fellar get the reservoir cant find on ebay and would a vette peice work?

from the fella who posted above you. that's where I got mine.

[Nomad]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Where does a fellar get the reservoir cant find on ebay and would a vette peice work?

PM 2SSRS (he posted above you). He's a vendor and he sells them.

[2010CAMAROJ]

Anyone interested in a bracket let me know!! We have them available in black and stainless.

[heinzd01]

Originally Posted by 2010CAMAROJ

Anyone interested in a bracket let me know!! We have them available in black and stainless.

fyi - I had to grind a little off the bottom edge of this bracket for it to fit.

[justa25thTA]

Originally Posted by heinzd01

fyi - I had to grind a little off the bottom edge of this bracket for it to fit.

and you will need a longer brake (actually the clutch) line to use this bracket

[pnyklr]

Originally Posted by justa25thTA

and you will need a longer brake (actually the clutch) line to use this bracket

How much of a PITA is it to R&R the stock hose with a longer one?

-Funk

[justa25thTA]

Originally Posted by pnyklr

How much of a PITA is it to R&R the stock hose with a longer one?

-Funk

Beats me I didn't do it. I made my own bracket a few posts up, by shamelessly copying the other bracket and then modifying it so that I wouldn't have to screw with the stock line. I was concerned with the amount of brake fluid that would be spilled and introducing air into the system.

[2010CAMAROJ]

Originally Posted by pnyklr

How much of a PITA is it to R&R the stock hose with a longer one?

-Funk

It's just 2 clamps. It's a little tight near the firewall but not too bad. Once you remove enough of the fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir and cap it, then you can remove the other end and replace it with your new hose.

[flht99b]

Here are the instructions I wrote to install the GTO reservoir on the battery post as I did in page 10 of this thread. Should work for any reservoir install, just ignore the sentences pertaining to the mounting placement and materials I used for my install. There isn't a bad place to mount the reservoir, it's all just personal preference. Just keep the reservoir above the clutch slave/master cylinder that is mounted on the firewall.
Tools and supplies you’ll need are regular and needle nose pliers to get the factory clamps off the stock hose that runs from the clutch master/slave cylinder to the brake master cylinder reservoir. The clamp at the firewall ( clutch master cylinder ) can be a bit of a challenge but with patience it can be slid back on the hose. I used a medium sized needle nose pliers and plenty of light ( 53 year old eyes ) to release this clamp. You will re-use these clamps on the new hose, one at the new GTO clutch reservoir end, the other at the clutch master/slave cylinder end on the firewall.
You’ll need a right angle drill and a ¼” drill bit for the finish size holes ( 2 ) that you will drill in the factory vertical bracket that currently holds the positive battery cable. I started with an 1/8” pilot hole and then finished both holes with the ¼” drill bit. From the pictures I posted on the forum (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=34085&page=10 ) beginning with post # 237 you can see I made a template from sticky back paper by tracing the back of the GTO reservoir and put it on the positive battery cable mounting bracket perpendicular to the outer edge of the bracket so I could accurately locate the 2 mounting holes ( center punched so the 1/8” pilot hole would not wander ).
To temporarily remove the positive battery cable from the bracket, you undo the 3 snaps at the top ( red ) so the top part of the red cover comes off. Then you squeeze the black part of the plastic holder, squeeze the side closest to the firewall and pull up and the battery cable with the black plastic mount/cover slides up and off the metal bracket. I pushed it aside and wrapped it in a thick rag for safety. Once the GTO reservoir is installed, just slide the positive battery cable and it’s black holder back onto the bracket and snap the top red cover back on.
You’ll need DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, your choice. Factory is DOT3. I’ve upgraded both my brakes and clutch hydraulic systems to ATE Super Blue Racing DOT4 brake fluid for its higher boiling point. I have run 1 Autocross and 2 road courses with my car so the higher boiling point of DOT4 is desirable.
You’ll need Phillips and/or flat head screw driver, the hardware I supply from Ace Hardware takes either type of screwdriver, you’ll use a screw driver at both ends of the mounting hardware. Once you see the hardware you’ll see what I mean. I also used a touch of blue LockTite on the mounting hardware for good measure.
You’ll need some method ( a motorcycle brake/fork syringe with a small hose on the end works best ) to remove the existing brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir. They can be found at motorcycle shops and I understand Wal-Mart carries them in the motorcycle section of the store.
You’ll need lots of rags, fender covers, paper, whatever to ensure brake fluid does not come in contact with any painted finish. You can get 99% of the existing brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir with the syringe very easily, there will be only a few drops of fluid left in the hose you are replacing so you can minimize the spillage of brake fluid to almost zero. Be sure not to pump the brake pedal for any reason while you have the brake fluid removed from the brake reservoir, you could possibly introduce air into the system and then would have to bleed the master cylinder and/or entire brake system.
Once you’ve finished the installation, just top off the brake master cylinder reservoir and fill the new GTO clutch reservoir. Pump the clutch pedal several times, add fluid as necessary and you are good to go. There is no need to bleed the clutch or brake master cylinder unless you intend to flush all the fluid out of them.
There is no relocation of the battery cable with the mounting position and method I choose. If you are reasonably careful measuring and drilling the 2 reservoir mounting holes, the clutch reservoir will be dead level in both planes.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions. It’s really easy, just takes a bit of time and care. I spent weeks thinking about where and how I wanted to mount the reservoir ( wanted it to look OEM if possible ) and then more time tracking down the EPDM cap, EPDM hose and just the right hardware to mount the reservoir but the whole installation took less than 2 hours.
Ed M.

[2010CAMAROJ]

Originally Posted by flht99b

Here are the instructions I wrote to install the GTO reservoir on the battery post as I did in page 10 of this thread. Should work for any reservoir install, just ignore the sentences pertaining to the mounting placement and materials I used for my install. There isn't a bad place to mount the reservoir, it's all just personal preference. Just keep the reservoir above the clutch slave/master cylinder that is mounted on the firewall.
Tools and supplies you’ll need are regular and needle nose pliers to get the factory clamps off the stock hose that runs from the clutch master/slave cylinder to the brake master cylinder reservoir. The clamp at the firewall ( clutch master cylinder ) can be a bit of a challenge but with patience it can be slid back on the hose. I used a medium sized needle nose pliers and plenty of light ( 53 year old eyes ) to release this clamp. You will re-use these clamps on the new hose, one at the new GTO clutch reservoir end, the other at the clutch master/slave cylinder end on the firewall.
You’ll need a right angle drill and a ¼” drill bit for the finish size holes ( 2 ) that you will drill in the factory vertical bracket that currently holds the positive battery cable. I started with an 1/8” pilot hole and then finished both holes with the ¼” drill bit. From the pictures I posted on the forum (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=34085&page=10 ) beginning with post # 237 you can see I made a template from sticky back paper by tracing the back of the GTO reservoir and put it on the positive battery cable mounting bracket perpendicular to the outer edge of the bracket so I could accurately locate the 2 mounting holes ( center punched so the 1/8” pilot hole would not wander ).
To temporarily remove the positive battery cable from the bracket, you undo the 3 snaps at the top ( red ) so the top part of the red cover comes off. Then you squeeze the black part of the plastic holder, squeeze the side closest to the firewall and pull up and the battery cable with the black plastic mount/cover slides up and off the metal bracket. I pushed it aside and wrapped it in a thick rag for safety. Once the GTO reservoir is installed, just slide the positive battery cable and it’s black holder back onto the bracket and snap the top red cover back on.
You’ll need DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, your choice. Factory is DOT3. I’ve upgraded both my brakes and clutch hydraulic systems to ATE Super Blue Racing DOT4 brake fluid for its higher boiling point. I have run 1 Autocross and 2 road courses with my car so the higher boiling point of DOT4 is desirable.
You’ll need Phillips and/or flat head screw driver, the hardware I supply from Ace Hardware takes either type of screwdriver, you’ll use a screw driver at both ends of the mounting hardware. Once you see the hardware you’ll see what I mean. I also used a touch of blue LockTite on the mounting hardware for good measure.
You’ll need some method ( a motorcycle brake/fork syringe with a small hose on the end works best ) to remove the existing brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir. They can be found at motorcycle shops and I understand Wal-Mart carries them in the motorcycle section of the store.
You’ll need lots of rags, fender covers, paper, whatever to ensure brake fluid does not come in contact with any painted finish. You can get 99% of the existing brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir with the syringe very easily, there will be only a few drops of fluid left in the hose you are replacing so you can minimize the spillage of brake fluid to almost zero. Be sure not to pump the brake pedal for any reason while you have the brake fluid removed from the brake reservoir, you could possibly introduce air into the system and then would have to bleed the master cylinder and/or entire brake system.
Once you’ve finished the installation, just top off the brake master cylinder reservoir and fill the new GTO clutch reservoir. Pump the clutch pedal several times, add fluid as necessary and you are good to go. There is no need to bleed the clutch or brake master cylinder unless you intend to flush all the fluid out of them.
There is no relocation of the battery cable with the mounting position and method I choose. If you are reasonably careful measuring and drilling the 2 reservoir mounting holes, the clutch reservoir will be dead level in both planes.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions. It’s really easy, just takes a bit of time and care. I spent weeks thinking about where and how I wanted to mount the reservoir ( wanted it to look OEM if possible ) and then more time tracking down the EPDM cap, EPDM hose and just the right hardware to mount the reservoir but the whole installation took less than 2 hours.
Ed M.

Thanks Ed

[Matt@Tick]

Worth a quick read: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158655

[justa25thTA]

Originally Posted by Joey@Tick

Worth a quick read: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158655

I read that already, but you really don't have a solution yet, so I guess we are stuck with band-aids. I wish someone who has had this problem (I haven't yet) would try the Lingenfelter spring and see if it does indeed do the job.