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Old 09-17-2010, 09:44 PM   #4327
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Originally Posted by ravensjeff View Post
Okay, gotta make a decision by monday. $4000 extra for forged internals. And it'll add 2 more weeks for delivery.


hmmmmmmmmmmmm.
Might as well! Just think about the extra boost. And like I once told Windy it's only money.
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:09 PM   #4328
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Originally Posted by ravensjeff View Post
Okay, gotta make a decision by monday. $4000 extra for forged internals. And it'll add 2 more weeks for delivery.


hmmmmmmmmmmmm.
It also adds 50 hp and torque through the whole power band... that's worth it right there.

Not trying to spend your money, but if I were to do it again, it would have been done the first time so I don't have to go back. shipping both ways for me to LPE is $3000.00 so that would have been a no-brainer for me.

I opted to finish off the rest of the car as I don't have unlimited funds and will re-visit the engine once I am ready. I am not done with the car yet... I thought I was getting close, until I read Speedster's build and realized I wanted more..
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:17 PM   #4329
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Thanks for the heads up! I am shipping the rotors back on Monday for some more R & D, they included some new shoes for the parking brakes as well as some RB 500 pads for my troubles. They are really nice people and just want to get the product right before releasing them. I can also confirm your fears on the parking brake use at speed. The first one was perfect, the second brought on quite a bit of fade and the third well lets just say I you will need a lot of space to stop.
The shoes are crispy critters after their abuse, but we had to sacrifice the cute little things in the process.
They also reached an outside the parking brake drum temp. of 475 degrees. I will bet their is an engineer at GM having a fit somewhere having a heart attack on reading this.
Yup.. I figured that would happen. Thanks for testing it out and the sacrifice of the little crispy brake pads.

I don't see any big deal removing the inside brake shield cover peice. more airflow is desired. Was it easy to remove? did you remove it? Probably needed to keep water/road debris off the rotors when driving in the rain, which i don't do. I do race in the rain for autocross if necessary for year end points, though.
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Old 09-17-2010, 11:00 PM   #4330
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Yup.. I figured that would happen. Thanks for testing it out and the sacrifice of the little crispy brake pads.

I don't see any big deal removing the inside brake shield cover peice. more airflow is desired. Was it easy to remove? did you remove it? Probably needed to keep water/road debris off the rotors when driving in the rain, which i don't do. I do race in the rain for autocross if necessary for year end points, though.
Given the slotted and drilled design I would imagine it would take quite a lot of water to hinder the braking to the point of dangerous. I think I remember Pete posting a pic of his that he had trimmed to help cooling. Maybe he can chime in of it.
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Old 09-18-2010, 02:14 AM   #4331
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Arrived late yesterday, I will get them on in the morning and give them a proper shake down.
They are a wicked nice looking part, very light and I think the steel emergency brake liner will do just fine.
I plan on working them up from 50 mph emergency stops on up to 90 mph. I figure if they are good enough to stop our heavy beasts from 90 they are plenty safe enough.
I will allow for about 30 minute cool downs to make sure the steel insert dosent spin in the aluniminum hat. So if things go as planned they should start shipping on Monday!

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Possibly shipping Monday.... have they started taking deposits yet? - didn't see it on Racing Brakes thread.

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Old 09-18-2010, 10:11 AM   #4332
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OK guys, I am posting up some pictures of the prototype rear Racing Brake two piece rotors. You are going to have to pardon the crappy phone pics.
The weight savings is amazing, as are the good looks, and performance.
The rear rotor as many of you know has an integral drum built into to it for the parking brake. In order to get the weight savings Racing Brake had to figure out a way to make the center hat out of aluminum. This brings on another challenge as it must also serve as a emergency brake in case of failure.
Their solution was to insert a steel liner. I know the hand brake is listed only as a parking brake, however how many times has someone forgot to release one a driven a half a block before realizing it? I can also attest to the fact that stops from 40, then 50 then 60 results in crispy little parking brake shoes. The rotor design however was bullet proof, and performed perfectly.
The one issue that reared its head was a clearance problem with the back dust shield biting into the outside of the parking brake drum. The factory rotor is necked down for clearance, but this piece being made of aluminum may have a strength issue if turned down to clear.
They are going to try to get it sized down to test integrity, if they deem it not safe they will advise the removal of the shield. The Corvettes have a similar problem they have to remove them. Plus side is removal will probably result in even better cooling for the brakes.
In any case I think the official release is in the very near future, and we will all love the rotor.
Looking at the the rotors I vote for discarding the dust shields. Do you know if they make a 2010 CTS-V front rotor?
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Old 09-18-2010, 10:57 AM   #4333
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Looking at the the rotors I vote for discarding the dust shields. Do you know if they make a 2010 CTS-V front rotor?
The fronts will fit without modification, the tough ones are the rears with the parking brake. Takw a look at them and let me know what your take is on them.
http://www.racingbrake.com/CTS_V_FRO...p/2114-311.htm
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Old 09-18-2010, 11:01 AM   #4334
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wieght savings aside cooling was one of my major reasons for going with them. Take a look at these.
Attached Images
  
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Old 09-18-2010, 11:04 AM   #4335
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Originally Posted by mws444 View Post
The fronts will fit without modification, the tough ones are the rears with the parking brake. Takw a look at them and let me know what your take is on them.
http://www.racingbrake.com/CTS_V_FRO...p/2114-311.htm
My setup use the CTS-V 2010 bits so I sent them an email. You are better connected with them so if you get a chance to ask...

I would remove the front dust shields as well. All they are doing on track is reflecting heat back to the rotor. When you get the brakes really hot the coating smokes, blisters and then the shields rust. At least that is the rumor on the street. I would never drive my car that hard.
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Old 09-18-2010, 11:05 AM   #4336
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wieght savings aside cooling was one of my major reasons for going with them. Take a look at these.
Yet another reason to remove those shileds. I run naked
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Old 09-18-2010, 12:00 PM   #4337
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It also adds 50 hp and torque through the whole power band... that's worth it right there.

Not trying to spend your money, but if I were to do it again, it would have been done the first time so I don't have to go back. shipping both ways for me to LPE is $3000.00 so that would have been a no-brainer for me.

I opted to finish off the rest of the car as I don't have unlimited funds and will re-visit the engine once I am ready. I am not done with the car yet... I thought I was getting close, until I read Speedster's build and realized I wanted more..
I would have done the forged package if I had to do it over also!!

I went to the drag strip last night for the Test & Tune. Can you say crappy track prep?? Wow!! I had the drag radials on this time, so I hooked a little bit better but still was having trouble with my 60' times. My best was a 12.1 @ 117 with a 1.95 60' time. I was running about 18psi in the tires, maybe I should have dropped them a bit more. If I can get my 60' time down to a 1.8, I will easily be in the 11's. It was a lot of fun tho!!

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Old 09-18-2010, 12:48 PM   #4338
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I would have done the forged package if I had to do it over also!!

I went to the drag strip last night for the Test & Tune. Can you say crappy track prep?? Wow!! I had the drag radials on this time, so I hooked a little bit better but still was having trouble with my 60' times. My best was a 12.1 @ 117 with a 1.95 60' time. I was running about 18psi in the tires, maybe I should have dropped them a bit more. If I can get my 60' time down to a 1.8, I will easily be in the 11's. It was a lot of fun tho!!

Attachment 165003
Nice work Speed. You'll be in the 11's soon. I also went last night, but struggled getting it all together in one run, not to mention the DA was 7300-7700. I had swapped out my tires to the Nitto 050R's but they were not seasoned on the 1st runs so I was spinning. On the last run I finally got them to stick and my 60ft time was 1.857, but I messed up on my shifts and ran a 13.1. I just need MORE practice.


Ravensjeff, I agree with the others. If you think you may want to do it in the future, it's probably best to just upgrade now. I know you'll love it!
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Old 09-18-2010, 02:33 PM   #4339
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Nice work Speed. You'll be in the 11's soon. I also went last night, but struggled getting it all together in one run, not to mention the DA was 7300-7700. I had swapped out my tires to the Nitto 050R's but they were not seasoned on the 1st runs so I was spinning. On the last run I finally got them to stick and my 60ft time was 1.857, but I messed up on my shifts and ran a 13.1. I just need MORE practice.


Ravensjeff, I agree with the others. If you think you may want to do it in the future, it's probably best to just upgrade now. I know you'll love it!
I hit the track last Sunday and seems like I am stuck at 12.8 DA was 7100 ft. I was the fastest street leagal car there, and only about 2/10 's off from the bikes. I know I can do better, but my 60' time is still running 2.2 range, I am just having hell hooking up.
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Old 09-18-2010, 05:12 PM   #4340
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