MACE 25mm Insulator

[hapisok]

its just phenolic...standing it down won't cause any issues or degradation to the material.

[67 GTO]

Originally Posted by ChadG

Mach,

I'm super impressed that you were able to get the Vararam to work with the 25mm insulator, nice work man! Do you have any pictures of what the gap on your car looked like with the Vararam before the insulator went on? I'm curious how much it changed, since you're exactly right everyone's Vararam seems to sit a little bit differently and you see people with gaps ranging from just under the "key fob standard" to just over it. Awesome work man!

I talked with the VR tech and he said a 3/4" gap would be fine but any closer may choke the air flow. BenningJ reported the same in another thread.

He also said shaving the horn at a very slight angle was ok if you wanted to dip the front back down.

[Mach]

Originally Posted by ChadG

Mach,

I'm super impressed that you were able to get the Vararam to work with the 25mm insulator, nice work man! Do you have any pictures of what the gap on your car looked like with the Vararam before the insulator went on? I'm curious how much it changed, since you're exactly right everyone's Vararam seems to sit a little bit differently and you see people with gaps ranging from just under the "key fob standard" to just over it. Awesome work man!

Thanks Chad... unfortunately I don't but I remember it was big enough for a key fob to fit. I also remember that before I couldn't get the vararam horn to butt up against the throttle body exactly. There was a gap on the bottom portion of where the vararam horn and throttle body meet.

[Mach]

Originally Posted by 67 GTO

I talked with the VR tech and he said a 3/4" gap would be fine but any closer may choke the air flow. BenningJ reported the same in another thread.

He also said shaving the horn at a very slight angle was ok if you wanted to dip the front back down.

Really? I might do that. So an angled horn is OK? That will give me a better gap in the front.

[67 GTO]

Originally Posted by Mach

Really? I might do that. So an angled horn is OK? That will give me a better gap in the front.

Yes, but no more than 1/8-3/16" from bottom to 0" at the top.

He also said I may benefit with the shorter gap in front with my mods. Something about the VR gettiing to much air in some cases. Tech talk was way over my head.

Before you do anything, call the VR tech to verify.

Very nice and helpful fellow.

[bmorecam]

Originally Posted by 67 GTO

Yes, but no more than 1/8-3/16" from bottom to 0" at the top.

He also said I may benefit with the shorter gap in front with my mods. Something about the VR gettiing to much air in some cases. Tech talk was way over my head.

Before you do anything, call the VR tech to verify.

Very nice and helpful fellow.

Get too much air? I wonder what that was all about. Unless it get too much air and the fuel trims can't compensate and make it lean out, but I doubt it would get that much air tho. I guess my AEM long tube brute force will be up for sale soon I guess it's true when they say, you don't know what was good until it's gone LOL!

[67 GTO]

Originally Posted by bmorecam

Get too much air? I wonder what that was all about. Unless it get too much air and the fuel trims can't compensate and make it lean out, but I doubt it would get that much air tho. I guess my AEM long tube brute force will be up for sale soon I guess it's true when they say, you don't know what was good until it's gone LOL!

Well from what I could understand, on my top end I maybe losing a bit because of my tune bucking up against the placement of the VR maf location and how it communicates with the ECM.

He talked maf scaling, frequencies and such.

He said the VR maf location was optimized and allowed for some performance mods but I may be better off removing the tune when racing.

Call the guy up, I'm lost. lol

[bmorecam]

Originally Posted by 67 GTO

Well from what I could understand, on my top end I maybe losing a bit because of my tune bucking up against the placement of the VR maf location and how it communicates with the ECM.

He talked maf scaling, frequencies and such.

He said the VR maf location was optimized and allowed for some performance mods but I may be better off removing the tune when racing.

Call the guy up, I'm lost. lol

I have to call them probably sometime next week to order a few missing parts from what I already have so I'll ask them what they mean. He might be talking about having to tune the maf. Every car is different, some cars can work well with factory scaling but some cars doesn't take aftermarket intakes too well even if the company tried to design around factory spec. No matter what type of intake I put on my car I always had to have my maf tuned. Sometimes peoples install a new intake and think it's ok because they don't get any CEL, but usually when they monitor the trims they will realize that the trims are borderline lean or rich which mean it's time to retune the maf. That's why it's always very important to keep your eye on data logs every once in a while. I don't even feel right any more if I can't monitor my obd parameters every time I get in the car LOL.

[MACE_ENG]

Originally Posted by gotexas25

I installed the insulator a few days ago, and the low end torque improvement made it well worth the buy! Unfortunately the cars not quite fast enough...yet

Ah I can certainly understand that yearning

Originally Posted by hapisok

fast enough...not sure if there is a solution for that other than strapping on a rocket engine. fyi...you have a lot of rotational mass by running 22" that will effect how quickly your car takes off. if you were to dyno between your OEM wheels and your 22's i bet you'd gain at least 15HP back.

The increase of the mass moment of inertia with going larger wheels is certainly a power killer, depending on the wheel chosen

Originally Posted by Mach

OK, its Saturday and I got my Mace 25mm and Vararam Intake installed. I got the Vararam in with NO modifications. The only problem is the gap in the front is sightly smaller but it fits.
So my opinion of the insulator?? WOW!!! Much better on the low end torque. She pulls hard. My neck hurts. This is well worth the $$$. Good bang for the buck.

Also after driving for 30 mins I popped the hood open touched the intake and it was ice cold. So I love my MACEOLATOR!!

Ah excellent Mach

Glad to hear that it all went well and that the Vararam and the 25mm MACEOLATOR are compatible

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

So you were able to port the "Maceolator" material?
I wasn't sure if it would tolerate this well. Any opinions on this practice from Mace, Steve?
It would be nice to know for future options-Thanks!

The material is similar to working with timber (it’s not timer) so if you can work with timber you won’t have any problems with it

Originally Posted by Mach

I didn't have a die grinder so used rolled up some sandpaper. No a big deal. The casting process of the intake manifold isn't perfect. Every manifold isn't EXACTLY the same. I got mine to match up great with some elbow grease.

I removed material where the RED is..

This is 100% true! To make life easier, finishing the insulator to suit your engine manifold combination, is easier then finishing your cylinder heads and manifold to suit your insulator.

Kindest Regards,
Steve

[TJ91]

Thanks for the info Mace!!


Mach!! If you remove the rubber strip or cut it, you'll get more room for air to pass.

[TJ91]

And I was told before that too much air can cause turbulence so maybe that was what VR was talking about. All in all it's a successful mod!
My VR moves to that gap as it is right now and it runs strong. Probably not as strong as it would with the proper gap but it definitly runs strong.
So it shouldnt be a problem. I would just cut that rubber strip to clear a little more air

[hapisok]

MACH...thats awesome! good job on making it happen for the VR guys, impressive work.

[Blacktip]

Originally Posted by hapisok

MACH...thats awesome! good job on making it happen for the VR guys, impressive work.

??..I thought the VR guys said it needed at least 3/4" opening, the key fob thickness only measures about 1/2"...so it's not getting sufficient airflow? Or did I miss something

[ChadG]

Originally Posted by Blacktip

??..I thought the VR guys said it needed at least 3/4" opening, the key fob thickness only measures about 1/2"...so it's not getting sufficient airflow? Or did I miss something

Mine goes from just over the "key fob" calibration to just under the "key fob" thickness after some hard driving. I haven't readjusted it in a while so I've been driving with the "just under" gap for months and the thing still runs really well . . . I don't think that gap is the limiting factor to be honest for airflow.