Eaton Truetrac Issues - Page 4 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

forklord · 01-07-2014, 02:32 PM

i just ordered 1000HP axles and aluminum driveshaft from DSS and getting the true trac and 1le 3.91 gears whenever they're available. now that i know i have to get machining done i don't know about the billet caps...my goal is 625+ whp. unless the case itself a weak link (especially with the stiffer bushings im installing) i should be fine for road course. but i wont be at the drag strip often. am i right?

blazzin1 · 01-07-2014, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forklord

i just ordered 1000HP axles and aluminum driveshaft from DSS and getting the true trac and 1le 3.91 gears whenever they're available. now that i know i have to get machining done i don't know about the billet caps...my goal is 625+ whp. unless the case itself a weak link (especially with the stiffer bushings im installing) i should be fine for road course. but i wont be at the drag strip often. am i right?

In my opinion, yes, the case itself is a weak link with the OEM diff. It allows too much torsional flex which results in gear disintegration....especially with the manual transmission!!! Get the caps.....and then know that you have a little extra insurance!!! Just my opinion.....

Merc · 01-07-2014, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forklord

i just ordered 1000HP axles and aluminum driveshaft from DSS and getting the true trac and 1le 3.91 gears whenever they're available. now that i know i have to get machining done i don't know about the billet caps...my goal is 625+ whp. unless the case itself a weak link (especially with the stiffer bushings im installing) i should be fine for road course. but i wont be at the drag strip often. am i right?

If you skip the billet caps, the LPW cover does the same thing, although I went with both the caps and the cover. JRE told me one or the other and both were overkill.

forklord · 01-07-2014, 04:04 PM

Well I hope to god these dss shafts, true tac and gears will work with their 9" diff when the time comes?

blazzin1 · 01-07-2014, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forklord

Well I hope to god these dss shafts, true tac and gears will work with their 9" diff when the time comes?

NOPE!!! If you want to upgrade to a 9" later.....new axles, driveshaft, and center section will be required!!! Merry Christmas!!!!

That's why I was saying above that the Hammerhead is a better option (in my opinion)....at least you can re-use your DSS axles and Driveshaft. Your truetrac posi-unit won't fit in the Hammerhead or 9", but you could at least sell it to try to make up a little of the money.

forklord · 01-07-2014, 04:46 PM

Hammerhead huh...ill google that. Thanks.

edit: found a news story on their website but no description or cost or even a listing on the store...looks expensive :p

blazzin1 · 01-07-2014, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forklord

Hammerhead huh...ill google that. Thanks.

Yeah, DSS sells them along with their 9" kits. From what I understand, the Hammerhead is loosely based off of the old Chevy "12-bolt" rearend.

AG1LE · 01-07-2014, 06:45 PM

HRD_WRK, thank you for the great feedback. I also am not finding a ton of info, but what I have found makes me comfortable with proceeding. I will also have the Eaton TT, 3.91 gear, and JRE caps, but decided not to do the LPW cover. Any reason I should re-consider and get the LPW, even though I have the billet caps? I have no plans to triple my HP, so I still feel good about low risk of breaking the Eaton.

I am getting mixed signals about changing the diff bushings. I can deal with a little extra noise for the performance gain, but I've heard from JDP that heat will cause these bushings to shrink and introduce slop, and JRE recommended that I keep the stock bushings on the diff. Can anyone else weigh in on diff bushings? I bought the BMR pro diff bushings, but not sure I will put them in.

By the way, anyone interested in Pfadt rear upper control arm bushings? You can get them from Tyler at JDP - they were discontinued by Pfadt, but JDP bought up a bunch of them. they even sell them pre-pressed into GM brackets.

Got a great price for an Eaton Truetrac from dynosteve at JDP - very fast shipping.

376LS3 · 01-07-2014, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driveshaftshop

just curious, whats the cost to change to a Eaton with gears on the stock set (doing it right)

I just had this done 2 weeks ago. I had:

Stock carrier ($450)
GM 3.91 ($300)
Lingenfelter Install kit ($300)
JRE Caps ($210) They screw you on shipping
TruTrac ($599)
PFADT Bushings ($150)

Took parts only to shop. Had them replace every bearing/race since I didnt know actual condition of diff since I bought it used. They charged me $250 for the gear change, $75 for the bushing install, $100 to machine the caps. It was $461 out the door. Then today I went and got axle seals at Chevy. $45 later. Ugh....Lol! $2515 for everything.

AG1LE · 01-07-2014, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 376LS3

I just had this done 2 weeks ago. I had:

Stock carrier ($450)
GM 3.91 ($300)
Lingenfelter Install kit ($300)
JRE Caps ($210) They screw you on shipping
TruTrac ($599)
PFADT Bushings ($150)

Took parts only to shop. Had them replace every bearing/race since I didnt know actual condition of diff since I bought it used. They charged me $250 for the gear change, $75 for the bushing install, $100 to machine the caps. It was $461 out the door. Then today I went and got axle seals at Chevy. $45 later. Ugh....Lol! $2515 for everything.

What are your initial impressions of how it drives? Noise?

Smirnoff · 01-07-2014, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMWNERW

What are your initial impressions of how it drives? Noise?

Forgot to ask.....are you installing the locker & 3.91 soon?

AG1LE · 01-07-2014, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smirnoff

Forgot to ask.....are you installing the locker & 3.91 soon?

I will schedule the install as soon as I can arrive at a final mod list..keeping changing my mind (which is costing me more and more). Here's what needs to go in (either have on hand or on order)

GM 3.91 Gear
Eaton Truetrac
JRE Billet caps
BMR Pro Differential Bushings (not sure these will go in)
Pfadt rear upper control arm bushings pre-pressed in GM brackets
Pfadt solid subframe bushings
Pfadt ZL spec sways
Pfadt drop springs
Pfadt rear trailing arms/bushings
Pfadt rear toe/tie rods/bushings

xtreme2s · 01-07-2014, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMWNERW

I will schedule the install as soon as I can arrive at a final mod list..keeping changing my mind (which is costing me more and more). Here's what needs to go in (either have on hand or on order)

GM 3.91 Gear
Eaton Truetrac
JRE Billet caps
BMR Pro Differential Bushings (not sure these will go in)
Pfadt rear upper control arm bushings pre-pressed in GM brackets
Pfadt solid subframe bushings
Pfadt ZL spec sways
Pfadt drop springs
Pfadt rear trailing arms/bushings
Pfadt rear toe/tie rods/bushings

I'm thinking your spot on for some safe aggressive fun with your mod list. Curious thought, you are building the rear for bullet proof ripping, as I also have done with what your'e planning to do, but me included using the LPW cover. My thought is axle upgrade? As I also have the M6, and HAVE done "dump the clutch" including 2nd gear dump for some serious burn-out action as what is suggested for a drag strip warm up. The axles will be the weak ????'s you have upon rear being done. ..... my .02 is you are going to have the cradle down for solid sub frame bushings, and rear out for gear change, you're 95% of the labor spending.... consider upgrade into DSS axles.

FYI.... I can totally relate to your "costing me more". I've been there and yet still am there. I'm still improving mine more.

Can't wait to test my just done added DSS CF driveshaft!

AG1LE · 01-07-2014, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtreme2s

I'm thinking your spot on for some safe aggressive fun with your mod list. Curious thought, you are building the rear for bullet proof ripping, as I also have done with what your'e planning to do, but me included using the LPW cover. My thought is axle upgrade? As I also have the M6, and HAVE done "dump the clutch" including 2nd gear dump for some serious burn-out action as what is suggested for a drag strip warm up. The axles will be the weak ????'s you have upon rear being done. ..... my .02 is you are going to have the cradle down for solid sub frame bushings, and rear out for gear change, you're 95% of the labor spending.... consider upgrade into DSS axles.

FYI.... I can totally relate to your "costing me more". I've been there and yet still am there. I'm still improving mine more.

Can't wait to test my just done added DSS CF driveshaft!

Dammit, I'm never going to get this stuff installed

Good advice, and I've looked at the axles and driveshaft...but at this rate I'll have a garage full of parts that I can't get on my car. I could buy the axles, but then would have no money to pay for installation. I'm really enjoying the car as-is, so I guess it wouldn't kill me to wait a bit longer...

Dumb question - do you have to drop the cradle for axle install? driveshaft install?

01-07-2014, 02:32 PM	#43
forklord Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 800	i just ordered 1000HP axles and aluminum driveshaft from DSS and getting the true trac and 1le 3.91 gears whenever they're available. now that i know i have to get machining done i don't know about the billet caps...my goal is 625+ whp. unless the case itself a weak link (especially with the stiffer bushings im installing) i should be fine for road course. but i wont be at the drag strip often. am i right? __________________ 2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad

01-07-2014, 04:04 PM	#46
forklord Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 800	Well I hope to god these dss shafts, true tac and gears will work with their 9" diff when the time comes? __________________ 2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad

01-07-2014, 04:46 PM	#48
forklord Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 800	Hammerhead huh...ill google that. Thanks. edit: found a news story on their website but no description or cost or even a listing on the store...looks expensive :p __________________ 2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad

01-07-2014, 06:45 PM	#50
AG1LE Drives: '14 1LE Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: NJ Posts: 2,438	HRD_WRK, thank you for the great feedback. I also am not finding a ton of info, but what I have found makes me comfortable with proceeding. I will also have the Eaton TT, 3.91 gear, and JRE caps, but decided not to do the LPW cover. Any reason I should re-consider and get the LPW, even though I have the billet caps? I have no plans to triple my HP, so I still feel good about low risk of breaking the Eaton. I am getting mixed signals about changing the diff bushings. I can deal with a little extra noise for the performance gain, but I've heard from JDP that heat will cause these bushings to shrink and introduce slop, and JRE recommended that I keep the stock bushings on the diff. Can anyone else weigh in on diff bushings? I bought the BMR pro diff bushings, but not sure I will put them in. By the way, anyone interested in Pfadt rear upper control arm bushings? You can get them from Tyler at JDP - they were discontinued by Pfadt, but JDP bought up a bunch of them. they even sell them pre-pressed into GM brackets. Got a great price for an Eaton Truetrac from dynosteve at JDP - very fast shipping. Last edited by AG1LE; 01-07-2014 at 07:14 PM.