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Old 06-18-2014, 03:37 PM   #43
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so this will solve the front...excellent!

Any thoughts on the rear? I'm thinking a key slot?
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:49 PM   #44
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Rear is easy just remove the lic plate
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:51 PM   #45
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yes that was my plan but how do you suggest doing it? Drill a key hole like my diagram/your idea or something else?
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:54 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikebrinda View Post
Thanks for photo. Is the brace already on the car, or is it shipped off the car like the splitter? Are the splitter install instructions poorly written, are they just taking a shortcut, or . . . ?
I would like to have the directions for installing splitter, anyone have them? They are wrong or the PDI guy is lazy because the inner close out has to be removed.
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:55 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backtotintops View Post
yes that was my plan but how do you suggest doing it? Drill a key hole like my diagram/your idea or something else?
No key hole needed!! We can slide in from the opening! For the rear just attach a bracket. The rear is easy to get to.
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:58 PM   #48
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great so your kits will work both front and rear. Do I order these http://goo.gl/84ANhX to work with it?
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:59 PM   #49
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As I noted in a previous post- my four splitter/bracket bolts were not installed and half the other splitter screws were missing as well. The two brackets were in their most upward position and would not have reached the splitter. Everyone needs to check their splitter attachments.
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Old 06-18-2014, 04:00 PM   #50
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Thanks to the forum member who sent this to me. Not the splitter instructions, but this might be helpful to anyone working in this area...
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File Type: pdf Z28_Fender_Flare.pdf (182.6 KB, 95 views)
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Old 06-18-2014, 04:01 PM   #51
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great so your kits will work both front and rear. Do I order these http://goo.gl/84ANhX to work with it?
With all due respect, I would NOT trust an $8 part for something so important. The Rennline towing eyes aren't cheap, but are proven to be a heavy-duty part that's up to the job. I'm sure there are other good towing eyes in the middle ground...
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Old 06-18-2014, 04:17 PM   #52
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With all due respect, I would NOT trust an $8 part for something so important. The Rennline towing eyes aren't cheap, but are proven to be a heavy-duty part that's up to the job. I'm sure there are other good towing eyes in the middle ground...
I fully agree with you here, I've used Rennline hooks for years and even rammed a k-wall smack-dab on the hook at 60mph. It wasn't pretty anymore but the damn thing still worked.
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Old 06-18-2014, 04:18 PM   #53
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The receiving kit can be any thread you want. Just specify what hook you want.

The problem with Rennline is they show the recover with the hook, but the hook does not come with it. We can provide any hook you want.
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Old 06-18-2014, 04:23 PM   #54
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This one appears to have a more threads than the docooler hook and longer thread area than the rennlist hooks:
http://www.amazon.com/Godspeed-RED-B...s=tow+hook+RED
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:20 PM   #55
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I would think the length needs to be short so as to not have leverage and bend the sub bumper. The receiver will be long and provides plenty of contact area. Threaded and a nut added to the back

There does not need as many threads as one would think. A 5/8 by 1/2 threaded not will hold 10k lbs.
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:38 PM   #56
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5 full threads is enough to shear most bolts.

Fine thread, grade 8 hardware is very stout.

A grade 8, 3/8-24 bolt will take at least 13,200 lbs to break, and are tested at 10,500lb without harm. Allowing for 2 times safety factor will lift the car into the air.
Stainless, while much weaker, is still strong enough for a recovery hook.

Metric would be size M10, grade 10.9. I can pull 50,000lb force with one in shear.

Titanium doesn't rust, is strong, and cheap. About $5 a bolt.
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