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#43 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 14 Z/28 0# Join Date: May 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 773
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so this will solve the front...excellent!
Any thoughts on the rear? I'm thinking a key slot?
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#44 |
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Rear is easy just remove the lic plate
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#45 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 14 Z/28 0# Join Date: May 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 773
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yes that was my plan but how do you suggest doing it? Drill a key hole like my diagram/your idea or something else?
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#46 |
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I would like to have the directions for installing splitter, anyone have them? They are wrong or the PDI guy is lazy because the inner close out has to be removed.
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#47 |
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#48 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 14 Z/28 0# Join Date: May 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 773
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great so your kits will work both front and rear. Do I order these http://goo.gl/84ANhX to work with it?
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"PTM11" Search & Destroy
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#49 |
![]() ![]() Drives: BAC Mono Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Reno
Posts: 869
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As I noted in a previous post- my four splitter/bracket bolts were not installed and half the other splitter screws were missing as well. The two brackets were in their most upward position and would not have reached the splitter. Everyone needs to check their splitter attachments.
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2014 Z/28, White
"I wasn't asked to make it cheap...I was asked to make it FAST!" Mark Stielow, the new Z/28. |
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#50 |
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Runs with scissors...
Drives: '14 Z/28s SIM/SW Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,446
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Thanks to the forum member who sent this to me. Not the splitter instructions, but this might be helpful to anyone working in this area...
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#51 | |
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Runs with scissors...
Drives: '14 Z/28s SIM/SW Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,446
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Quote:
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#52 |
![]() ![]() Drives: BAC Mono Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Reno
Posts: 869
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I fully agree with you here, I've used Rennline hooks for years and even rammed a k-wall smack-dab on the hook at 60mph. It wasn't pretty anymore but the damn thing still worked.
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2014 Z/28, White
"I wasn't asked to make it cheap...I was asked to make it FAST!" Mark Stielow, the new Z/28. |
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#53 |
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The receiving kit can be any thread you want. Just specify what hook you want.
The problem with Rennline is they show the recover with the hook, but the hook does not come with it. We can provide any hook you want. |
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#54 |
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This one appears to have a more threads than the docooler hook and longer thread area than the rennlist hooks:
http://www.amazon.com/Godspeed-RED-B...s=tow+hook+RED
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#55 |
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I would think the length needs to be short so as to not have leverage and bend the sub bumper. The receiver will be long and provides plenty of contact area. Threaded and a nut added to the back
There does not need as many threads as one would think. A 5/8 by 1/2 threaded not will hold 10k lbs. |
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#56 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 ZR1 "Satan" Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Norco, CA
Posts: 1,183
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5 full threads is enough to shear most bolts.
Fine thread, grade 8 hardware is very stout. A grade 8, 3/8-24 bolt will take at least 13,200 lbs to break, and are tested at 10,500lb without harm. Allowing for 2 times safety factor will lift the car into the air. Stainless, while much weaker, is still strong enough for a recovery hook. Metric would be size M10, grade 10.9. I can pull 50,000lb force with one in shear. Titanium doesn't rust, is strong, and cheap. About $5 a bolt.
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2003 Z06 in progress 2009 CTS-V "Spooky" 12.36 ET, bone stock at 1600 mi. Rainy day in Sacramento. Sadness. 2010 ZR1 "Satan" no times yet. 2013 Volt SCCA Solo2 #771 HS3. And a bunch of Duramaxes. Last edited by McRat; 06-18-2014 at 07:03 PM. |
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