6th gen camaro control arm deflectors installed

[h018871]

Originally Posted by hammdo

I did mine a bit differently. I used abs and created a 'pad' to bolt them on -- set them up for 'track' first, then, I'm able to use the 'daily' duct.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1584

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1585

-Don

slick idea Don!

I'm trying a different (more expensive) approach.
The 6th gen arms are slightly shorter, see pics. This will increase the caster without using adjustment bolts and wallowing out the front mount in the frame. I've already done that, but am looking to see if i can get a bit more adjustability out of it. I'm maxed out on the adjustment now at 7 degrees. I feel as though the shorter arm will give 7-8 degrees without any adjustment on the bolt.
I'm tracking at Cresson this weekend and hope to get the arms in and an alignment done before i go.
The arms in the picture are the standard SS arms, I got the '17 SS 1LE arms to try

[olblue75]

So the factory arms have the holes already drilled in them all a fellar would need to do is get a template of a factory hole location and transfer them???

[olblue75]

Originally Posted by h018871

slick idea Don!

I'm trying a different (more expensive) approach.
The 6th gen arms are slightly shorter, see pics. This will increase the caster without using adjustment bolts and wallowing out the front mount in the frame. I've already done that, but am looking to see if i can get a bit more adjustability out of it. I'm maxed out on the adjustment now at 8 degrees. I feel as though the shorter arm will give 8 degrees without any adjustment on the bolt.
I'm tracking at Cresson this weekend and hope to get the arms in and an alignment done before i go.
The arms in the picture are the standard SS arms, I got the '17 SS 1LE arms to try

Can you post the 1LE PNs?

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by h018871

slick idea Don!

I'm trying a different (more expensive) approach.
The 6th gen arms are slightly shorter, see pics. This will increase the caster without using adjustment bolts and wallowing out the front mount in the frame. I've already done that, but am looking to see if i can get a bit more adjustability out of it. I'm maxed out on the adjustment now at 8 degrees. I feel as though the shorter arm will give 8 degrees without any adjustment on the bolt.
I'm tracking at Cresson this weekend and hope to get the arms in and an alignment done before i go.
The arms in the picture are the standard SS arms, I got the '17 SS 1LE arms to try

Nice! I plan on watching this weekend.. hope to see you there!

I wondered about using the 6th gen radius rods..

Good luck!

-Don

[h018871]

Well, things didn't go as well as i hoped.
The bolt hole needs to be opened up, not a problem and I need to make some shims because the bushing thickness is less on the 6th gen arms. Not an issue really, I just wasn't prepared for that today so the 5th gen arms are back in the car.

I'll look for you Don!

[h018871]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Can you post the 1LE PNs?

FE4 (SS 1LE): 84051641 (L), 84051642 (R)

This is what the bushing looks like

[Norm Peterson]

Are you making shims for just the inner metal sleeves, for just the rubber parts, or for the whole area inside the outer shell?


Norm

[h018871]

Norm
I plan to make “square” plates/shims to support the rubber and hold the center aluminum piece solid in the bracket. In effect, to narrow the bracket.

[hammdo]

Could do custom radius rod inserts if the rubber outer is removable like the 5th gens...

Maybe JPSS can do that?

Hey JusticePete ;o)!

-Don

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by h018871

Norm
I plan to make “square” plates/shims to support the rubber and hold the center aluminum piece solid in the bracket. In effect, to narrow the bracket.

I don't think you want to be compressing the rubber any more than can be helped. Clamping load "lost" to rubber compression comes out of the clamp load through the bracket side-inner sleeve-bracket side stack, which is really how this kind of bolted connection is supposed to work. Not through direct shear of the bolt as is commonly misunderstood. FWIW, this is much more critical with polyurethane bushings.


Norm

[h018871]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

I don't think you want to be compressing the rubber any more than can be helped. Clamping load "lost" to rubber compression comes out of the clamp load through the bracket side-inner sleeve-bracket side stack, which is really how this kind of bolted connection is supposed to work. Not through direct shear of the bolt as is commonly misunderstood. FWIW, this is much more critical with polyurethane bushings.


Norm

My thoughts are to mimic the factory clamping method.
If I make a "small" spacer for each side of the center aluminum piece, I would think that the arm would flex more than if the spacer supported everything...... Am I over thinking this?

[Norm Peterson]

My question is whether you really want to support the compliant part any more firmly, as doing so tends to stiffen it against the off-axis components of rotation and induces a little suspension resistance to movement. The stiffer the bushing material, the worse this resistance effect becomes.

Do you have an end-on picture or other view not along the bolt/inner sleeve axis? I'm curious about the sleeve and shell lengths vs the length of the rubber bushing.


Norm

[Mach83]

Intriguing discussion re: C6 components. As far as zip ties vs something more professional ..... the deflectors with metal shields were less than $20. Mine have been mounted for 2 track sessions and over 1000 miles of street driving. Nothing has moved or changed etc. I can remove them with wire clippers in about 1 minute. I'm OCD with this stuff and yeah I'd prefer something more polished but.....if I'm gonna invest that kind of time in a brake cooling project, I'm taking air directly to the rotor via a quantum setup. I can't justify things like welding or drilling / tapping to securely mount a $20 interim component.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[h018871]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

My question is whether you really want to support the compliant part any more firmly, as doing so tends to stiffen it against the off-axis components of rotation and induces a little suspension resistance to movement. The stiffer the bushing material, the worse this resistance effect becomes.

Do you have an end-on picture or other view not along the bolt/inner sleeve axis? I'm curious about the sleeve and shell lengths vs the length of the rubber bushing.


Norm

the inner sleeve and rubber are flush with each other, the sleeve is narrower.