So it's okay to "delete" the oil cooler?

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by el ess A

I didn't. I simply got a solid 2012 upper hose which doesn't have the T in it. Problem solved. The 2012-15 used a tap off from the bottom of the radiator instead, so it didn't need the hose T.

But if you really wanted to block off what's there, you could get a nipple and put it on there. I just wanted it to look like it was never there.

Whoops, completely didn’t realize you said HEATER hoses. I did the heater hose relocation a while ago, with the Katech 5th gen Camaro SS heater hose relocation kit. I think at the time, I was thinking it was gonna save me money, so I bought that over the 12-15 OEM heater hoses for the LS3/L99. Looking back now, I probably would’ve gone for the OEM part because I found a few vendors selling them for like $20-30 cheaper than the common going prices.

There’s like maybe 2 or 3 sharp spots in the side of the engine bay chassis, on the driver’s side, after you relocate the hoses to the inside of the heat shielding. Katech’s kit is simply just heater hoses and hose clamps, but they were nice enough to cut out a section of hosing for each hose, to wrap them around the sharp edged chassis areas. I ended up just using a single zip tie and they already wrapped around the hoses nicely.

I had trouble getting the 3/4” hose to install at the way on the heater core port, so I gave up with it having like maybe 2-2.5 mm left for the hose to go all the way against the firewall. The hose still fully installed, so I wasn’t too crazy about it; and I used their worm gear hose clamps, because it was wayyy easier than trying to use the factory spring clamps. I did, however, retain the spring clamps at the water pump thermostat fitting, to keep that OEM look.

One kinda annoying area, is the furthest back coil pack on the passenger’s side valve cover. If you have to dissemble the coil pack and adjust the bracket/hardware around there, it’s kind of a pain to do so. You gotta muscle the hoses around, and if you move them enough, the rubber hoses can kink if you’re too crazy with it.

[0stones0]

Bringing this thread back to life as it gets closer to spring. The plug that goes in the block, which needs a 17mm hex wrench. It has a rubber seal so, should one use or not use thread tape and what should it be torqued to?

Thanks

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by 0stones0

Bringing this thread back to life as it gets closer to spring. The plug that goes in the block, which needs a 17mm hex wrench. It has a rubber seal so, should one use or not use thread tape and what should it be torqued to?

Thanks

What rubber “seal” are you referring to? The OEM GM block-off plug we need is brass, and came with the same cured, orange thread-locker stuff on the trans plug bolts’ threads. And yes, I also did use some teflon tape on tape, just to be safe.

Google says that the original coolant block fitting for the LS3 engines were torqued to around 44 ft/lbs of torque. But keep in mind that that’s aluminum, and what we now have is brass. I didn’t really mind personally, and torqued by hand, since I was afraid of stripping or over-tightening.

[Bee]

Originally Posted by 0stones0

Bringing this thread back to life as it gets closer to spring. The plug that goes in the block, which needs a 17mm hex wrench. It has a rubber seal so, should one use or not use thread tape and what should it be torqued to?

Thanks

It sounds like Improved Racing recently upgraded the plug in their delete kits. So if you have an older version with a brass plug, it should have came with tape on the threads. If you have the new version with a zinc-plated plug, it should have a sealing washer...so no thread tape is needed.

Their directions for their oil cooler kit (which includes the removal of the factory cooler) states the coolant plug should be tightened to 45 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn.

[0stones0]

Originally Posted by Bee

It sounds like Improved Racing recently upgraded the plug in their delete kits. So if you have an older version with a brass plug, it should have came with tape on the threads. If you have the new version with a zinc-plated plug, it should have a sealing washer...so no thread tape is needed.

Their directions for their oil cooler kit (which includes the removal of the factory cooler) states the coolant plug should be tightened to 45 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn.

Thank you!

I have the new version with sealing washer.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by Bee

It sounds like Improved Racing recently upgraded the plug in their delete kits. So if you have an older version with a brass plug, it should have came with tape on the threads. If you have the new version with a zinc-plated plug, it should have a sealing washer...so no thread tape is needed.

Their directions for their oil cooler kit (which includes the removal of the factory cooler) states the coolant plug should be tightened to 45 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn.

I wonder if I ended up getting a engine coolant plug bolt that was from old backstock perhaps…? I did get it from an Amazon vendor for cheap, by searching up the specific OEM part number.

Side note, my factory coolant block fitting was seized as hell, and I had to use a 3 ft breaker bar with the 34mm hex socket on it. The fitting had some corrosion I think, and it smelled awful when it came out. There was also lots of teflon tape on the factory coolant block fitting, so I assume that’s what they used during assembly.

[0stones0]

Finally did the delete today. Did take a bit of effort with the headers on. Only thing I can add is you’ll have to take apart the cooler in order to get it past the headers.

[0stones0]

And the best part is…no more wet oil pan and surrounding areas from the leaker cooler. Well, heater more than a cooler.
Still might entertain the thought of a thermostated actual cooler.

[J35Y2]

Originally Posted by 0stones0

And the best part is…no more wet oil pan and surrounding areas from the leaker cooler. Well, heater more than a cooler.
Still might entertain the thought of a thermostated actual cooler.Attachment 1162974

By the way, I'm one of the folks that ran the 25-row cooler, basically like the one that comes in the Mishimoto engine oil cooler kit. Since I deleted my factory cooler to avoid potential leaks (and also favored air to oil cooling), it obviously doesn't do the job of TWO oil coolers (stock + aftermarket), but still has been doing more than just the factory water to oil cooler all by itself.

I would probably highly suggest rigging up a 30 or even 34-35 row cooler if you plan on tracking the car. I'm holding a steady operating coolant temp of around 198-205 F; and most of the time, it's usually under 200 F. As for the engine oil temps, I don't know the actual numbers yet, since I've only been eyeing my oil temp gauge. It's estimated ofc, so the needle still sits around the area that it did before, prior to me deleting the stock water to oil cooler, and installing my own air to oil cooler. I'm guessing it's anywhere from like 10-15 F degrees cooler, but I haven't confirmed this dead on yet.

I also opted for a thermostatic oil feed, especially if it's going to be a daily driver. I think having a 215 F t-stat on my 25-row oil cooler, seems to do pretty decent. I think I would probably get a lower t-stat (180 or 200 F) or just opt for a straight oil cooler with no t-stat; although do note that I live in CA, and I also run 0w-40 weight engine oil. If you were to probably run a 30+ row oil cooler, I would definitely consider a t-stat.