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#57 |
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~COTW 6/30/14~
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Hope it works for you.
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Mods: Heritage Grill, Blade Spoiler, Corrado Hoodliner Mural, Premium Engine Boxes, Radiator Shroud, Custom Painted Bowties, Dipstick & Engine Caps, RX Catch Can, Corsa cat back exhaust, CAI black powder coat cold air, Apex cold air intake scoop and Apex washer tank relocate kit, Dynatech SuperMAXX Ceramic Coated LT Headers, High Flow Cats, JRE470 Rough Idle Cam Package, DSS 1,000 RWHP Axels, Slowhawk Mustang Dyno Tune, QTP QTEC 66 Low Profile Cutouts and iTSX. 453 RWHP 427 RWTQ
WEB LINKS BUILD TIMING CHAIN FAILURE TRANSITION FROM STOCK TO CAM VID |
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#58 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Thanks! Appreciate the support....
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#59 |
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What's this button do?
Drives: 2019 Black 2SS Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wylie, Texas
Posts: 1,364
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So do I, as I'm looking into doing the same ATI pulley. Thanks Maxspeed.
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2019 Black & Red & Silver 2SS - Bone Stock
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#60 |
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~COTW 6/30/14~
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Your welcome!
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Mods: Heritage Grill, Blade Spoiler, Corrado Hoodliner Mural, Premium Engine Boxes, Radiator Shroud, Custom Painted Bowties, Dipstick & Engine Caps, RX Catch Can, Corsa cat back exhaust, CAI black powder coat cold air, Apex cold air intake scoop and Apex washer tank relocate kit, Dynatech SuperMAXX Ceramic Coated LT Headers, High Flow Cats, JRE470 Rough Idle Cam Package, DSS 1,000 RWHP Axels, Slowhawk Mustang Dyno Tune, QTP QTEC 66 Low Profile Cutouts and iTSX. 453 RWHP 427 RWTQ
WEB LINKS BUILD TIMING CHAIN FAILURE TRANSITION FROM STOCK TO CAM VID |
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#61 |
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Geek
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I don't know if you bought all the tools yet, but you can borrow a balancer puller from a parts store and buy a long bolt and washers from McMaster-Carr for cheap cheap to use as an installer. I think I used an M16x2x140mm bolt and about 10 1mm flat washers to push mine on most of the way, then switched back over to the stock crank bolt to torque it on, then torqued in the ARP crank bolt.
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01000111011011110110111101100100001000000110110001 11010101100011011010110010000001110111011010010111 01000110100000100000011101000110100001101001011100 110010000001101111011011100110010100100001
x = ac97968bd3df8f968c8cd3df998a9c94d3df9c8a918bd3df9c 909c94df8c8a9c949a8dd3df92908b979a8ddf998a9c949a8d d3df8b968b8cd1 x = ~x |
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#62 |
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Geek
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Something like this for the bolt
http://www.mcmaster.com/#95430a482/=svk3ky And this for the washers http://www.mcmaster.com/#92141a056/=svk5tu
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01000111011011110110111101100100001000000110110001 11010101100011011010110010000001110111011010010111 01000110100000100000011101000110100001101001011100 110010000001101111011011100110010100100001
x = ac97968bd3df8f968c8cd3df998a9c94d3df9c8a918bd3df9c 909c94df8c8a9c949a8dd3df92908b979a8ddf998a9c949a8d d3df8b968b8cd1 x = ~x |
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#63 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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I did buy the tool but this is a great idea! I appreciate the info. Since the tool has not arrived yet, I'm going to look at this. Thanks!
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#64 |
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Geek
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No problem. It worked like a charm for 2 local cam installs. You just want to make sure you stop cranking on the long bolt before it bottoms out in the crank, but make sure you get it on far enough that the stock-length bolt has plenty of threads to grab when you switch over.
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01000111011011110110111101100100001000000110110001 11010101100011011010110010000001110111011010010111 01000110100000100000011101000110100001101001011100 110010000001101111011011100110010100100001
x = ac97968bd3df8f968c8cd3df998a9c94d3df9c8a918bd3df9c 909c94df8c8a9c949a8dd3df92908b979a8ddf998a9c949a8d d3df8b968b8cd1 x = ~x |
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#65 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Got the tools -- installer, flywheel holder, puller, now, the waiting on the pulley (sent yesterday from JDP) and I'll be set!
Now, that damn 24MM socket -- where is that thing... |
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#66 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Well, pulley should be here today or Monday.
So, after all this I went back and investigated the Cam/Heads, Super Chargers, etc. by looking @ my original goals right after I bought the SS: 400 RWHP with bolt ons and tune (did not want to open up the engine)-- got that 1LE like handling performance -- um, why did I want that - let me see... OH YEA, can't make use of more hp unless the suspension can handle it! So, that's what I'm doing now -- FE4 update with trailing arms and trailing arm bushings. JPT Tyler has been a huge help. BMR parts are part of the FE4 update so that is what I'm doing. I got caught up in the HP wars and completely went from what I know one needs to do -- get the suspension ready to handle future track/hp upgrades. I knew this and usually do those mods first—but I didn’t this time.So, while 500 RWHP is still on the table (cam and heads will get me pretty close to that) those will have to wait until I get the car ready to handle more HP. I like the suspension mods as I can do them over time and not have to ‘rush’ to get things done @ once. The sway-bars, links, lower control arms, trailing arms and their bushings will be first. That should really help with the wheel hop I’ve noticed (before the under pulley went) and better handling I expected (it handles great, but I know what it should do and it’s not their yet). Then I'll focus on the other necessities as needed -- springs, shocks, structs, bushings, where they make sense. Hubs -- that is still out, brakes -- um SS has pretty good ones, not sure if going ZL1 is really in my plans or BUDGET -- but getting near the 1LE is what I wanted to do in the first place. No 1LE @ the time was near the price point of the SS -- so I had a lot of room to play since I wanted HP updates and suspension mods too. I was looking into FI: I want to keep my 3.91s so FI is out. I should have had GPI do the bushings on the case while it was out -- dumn on my part I receive a tremendous amount of valuable input from the forum – help me keep my eye on my original goals… Thanks! -Don |
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#67 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Updates***** in start of thread.
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#68 |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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BTW while evrything on this car was metric, the pulley holes were 5/16x24 (for pulling this thing off) -- that was fun to find out @ 9:30 pm -- just before the parts store closes.. Had to get some 2" ones as the pulley kit I had (steering wheel) had 4" ones -- way to long...
Last edited by hammdo; 02-17-2015 at 09:19 PM. |
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#69 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Camaro Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,670
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Sorry to hear about your issues. Who at tsp have you talked with? I would like to check in on this and make sure we swap you out for a new pulley. It's also very important I get that pulley back to the manufacturer for inspection.
I have not held a failed pulley in my hands in years so it's real important I get that thing here so it can be studied. I'm sorry it let you down driving, this tx heat is rough right now & being broke down in the middle of it really sucks. :( |
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#70 |
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Derek is who I emailed Jason.
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