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#57 | |
![]() Drives: '11 Camaro Supercharged Convertible Join Date: May 2014
Location: NJ
Posts: 481
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2011 Triple Black SS convertible, LSX 427, PRC 260cc heads, Callies Ultra Billet Rods, Wiseco -20 cc piston, Callies Dragon Slayer crank, Strange Dana 60 rear w/3.73 gear ratio and driveshaft, Pfadt coilovers, Pfadt sway bars, Pfadt trailing arms, Pfadt tie rods, Pfadt subframe bushings, Vortech YSi with wastegate and twin BOV, Haltech ECU, Mantic 9000 Twin Clutch, ALKY control meth system with dual nozzle, Squash twin fuel pumps, ACS T3 ports, VIS Terminator Hood, Seibon ZL style lip.
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#58 |
![]() Drives: 1993 Mazda Rx7 L99/t56 Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 14
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Do you have an oil temp gauge? Did you overfill your pan? Did you check oil level before each session? Do you have an oil cooler? What weight oil are you running?
Some notes with regards to my questions: Oil temps without a cooler will get in the 320+ range Higher volume oil pumps can cause starvation due to slow drain-back Thicker oils will help slightly with oil viscosity breakdown Go here and spend some money... www.improvedracing.com |
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#59 | |
![]() Drives: '11 Camaro Supercharged Convertible Join Date: May 2014
Location: NJ
Posts: 481
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Quote:
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2011 Triple Black SS convertible, LSX 427, PRC 260cc heads, Callies Ultra Billet Rods, Wiseco -20 cc piston, Callies Dragon Slayer crank, Strange Dana 60 rear w/3.73 gear ratio and driveshaft, Pfadt coilovers, Pfadt sway bars, Pfadt trailing arms, Pfadt tie rods, Pfadt subframe bushings, Vortech YSi with wastegate and twin BOV, Haltech ECU, Mantic 9000 Twin Clutch, ALKY control meth system with dual nozzle, Squash twin fuel pumps, ACS T3 ports, VIS Terminator Hood, Seibon ZL style lip.
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#60 | |
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Geoff
Drives: 2022 SS 1LE Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,768
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here's the "go back together thread" http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386392 the car has the factory 4 pack gauges, but there is a lot of discussion here on C5 as to the accuracy of the factory oil temp reading I will add a separate gauge nope, did not overfill nor underfill the oil in the motor no, I did not check the oil level after every session, but on teardown there was no sign of oil starvation and the pan was full I did have the factory LS3 heat exchanger, but will now go with an external cooler I run GM 5/30 dyno oil improved racing has some very nice gear...........they are familiar with my credit card my belief regarding high flow oil pumps is that their main purpose in life is to ensure that the oil passages are full and fully pressured. much of the "additional volume" just gets dumped back into the pan, so oil starvation from pumping all of the oil to the top of the motor does not occur. this is based on the assumption that all clearances are maintained to spec. if you open up clearances............that changes things and allows more oil to be pumped through the engine
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#61 | |
![]() Drives: 1993 Mazda Rx7 L99/t56 Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Your statment actually supports exactly what I was saying. I am fairly new to the ls3 game but have been in the ls1 game for awhile they had a problem with drain back, you would pump a "higher volume" of oil in to the top end and "gravity" wouldn't have enough time to replace it into the oil pan. This is the reason almost every ls track guy I know run an extra quart of oil. |
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#62 | |
![]() Drives: 1993 Mazda Rx7 L99/t56 Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 14
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Quote:
I agree that it doesn't look like catastofic failure but there is a lot of wear. (I am no expert though) As I said above, most ls guys with track cars overfill to avoid this possible issue. Also to help with oil starvation on high g corners. Also, it is well documented that these cars will consume oil especially at the track. I go through about a 1/3 quart ever 25 min session. I have an Accusump, improved baffle and oil cooler FYI, I think these are a minimum for any tracked LS car. Edit- just read your build thread and looks like you are on the right track. Now just add in an Accusump. Ha! |
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#63 |
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Geoff
Drives: 2022 SS 1LE Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,768
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When the motor quit and I got it to the pits, I did pull the dipstick. it was where it should be, was clear/amber and did not smell like gas. I took these all as good signs.
1/3 quart per session seems to be quite a bit. the rings must be set a little loose. sounds like it needs (needed) a vacuum pump to help the rings seal. I'm not familiar with Accusump, but on some you can add another scavenger to make the sump vacuum for you. the builder and I discussed a vacuum pump for mine. we decided since it is a DD I would be better off with the rings set a bit tighter than they would be with the pump to help with oil consumption and make the build a little less complicated.
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#64 | |
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Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,171
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Quote:
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#65 |
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Geoff
Drives: 2022 SS 1LE Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,768
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not a lot really
general clean up 0.005 cylinder hone check the deck height and true align bore haha, don't tell me I should have done something that is critical to the build.....yeah Pete, go ahead and tell me
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#66 |
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Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,171
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Did they happen to tell you the Ra after the cylinder hone?
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#67 |
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Geoff
Drives: 2022 SS 1LE Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,768
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Ra?????
and probably "no" they didn't
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#68 |
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Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,171
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It is the roughness of the finish, a perthometer is used to measure it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_roughness Depending on the build, NA, FI or Professional Race i.e. NASCAR and the ring material the cylinder will be honed to a specified finish. An out of spec hone creates issues with rings seating. Another example would be the finish on a cam lobe. Cams will come in anywhere from an 8 to 20. Tumble (RIM finish) the cam and you could see the Ra drop to under 2. Get it too smooth and the roller can walk off. The measurement is an exact science. Different builders will have different opinions on what the 'correct' Ra is for a specific build. Not all builders use a perthometer to verify the cylinder finish is correct. |
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#69 |
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Geoff
Drives: 2022 SS 1LE Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,768
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Wow Pete
Looks like I have some homework and a discussion with the builder I'm sure he has it right, but definitely info I'd like to know
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