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thahemp · 12-23-2013, 11:45 PM

If it's a diameter problem just tell Shawn.

BlaqWhole · 12-24-2013, 02:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyg36

0:24 in front of car
0:30 driver side near mid pipe
0:41 mufflers
0:45 pass side mid pipe

I don't think you have a leak based on what I can hear. But it is difficult to analyze these things this way. More than likely you're just hearing the sound that headers make. For some reason, they kinda do sound like a leak to the untrained ear. I could have sworn I had a leak back when I first installed mine. But a buddy had just swung by and told me all was good. If you wanna be sure, then go under the car and put your hands close to the connections and try to feel for air leaking. Be careful not to actually touch the pipes. Just kinda cup your hands around it (keep it clean guys, lol!). If you feel air being pushed out around the connections, then just tighten it up a little.

Neumatic · 12-24-2013, 06:42 AM

Or to be sure you don't touch it you can use soapy water

.

LS3 SS · 12-24-2013, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyg36

0:24 in front of car
0:30 driver side near mid pipe
0:41 mufflers
0:45 pass side mid pipe

We all have gone through the same thing. Those of us that werent used to LS motors with their extra valvetrain noise, the headers multiplies the sound. The primaries on the header are thinner than cast iron, so the sound of the valvetrain is going to be louder, more than likely that's what you're hearing.

But just for good measure, re-check and tighten down the areas where you feel you hear a leak.

TornadoSS · 12-24-2013, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nightmare2012

OK guys so I went to the tire shop and got my drag radials on as soon as I drove out the dashboard lit up like a Christmas with abs lights my rears are 305/35/20 and fronts are 255/40/20 is there anyway to rest these lights and make my car drive normally.

Well, I'm not sure of any way to eliminate the abs codes. Your front and rear tire sizes are nearly a 1/2" different in diameter. This is most likely setting off the lights. Hopefully someone will chime in here for sure about whether it can be adjusted. You might check all your abs sensors around your wheels and make sure they didn't get damaged by the shop or a tire rubbing issue.

Birm · 12-24-2013, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS3 SS

LOL. I'm not looking forward to it either. I know it will be much easier because I have access to a press, a lift, a torch, and a lot of tools, but it's still going to be an all day job for me. I'm definitely looking forward to learning how to tear my rear cradle apart and put it back together though.

After that, it's some Drag radials and I think I will be 90% ready for next drag season. Hoping for an 11.60 or better.

Rear cradle isnt that bad since you have a lift, IT SUCKS doing it on jack stands lol... ask me how I know

thahemp · 12-24-2013, 10:13 AM

Yeah... I don't have a lift either. We're gonna have to get creative.

Birm · 12-24-2013, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS3 SS

LOL. I'm not looking forward to it either. I know it will be much easier because I have access to a press, a lift, a torch, and a lot of tools, but it's still going to be an all day job for me. I'm definitely looking forward to learning how to tear my rear cradle apart and put it back together though.

After that, it's some Drag radials and I think I will be 90% ready for next drag season. Hoping for an 11.60 or better.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neumatic

Very obtainable goal IMO. I ran a 11.85 with less power and less suspension stuff, also had a pretty unimpressive 60' and a clutch that was about to be toasted. DA wasn't anything amazing either. I think you got it

Let us know how the install goes!

I think I had better buy some subframe bushings since I am going to have the cradle dropped anyways. God it never freaking ends.

Got a bonus today and the boss told me im getting a raise the first of the year too. Whoo! More car parts.

Just a suggestion for you two since you are back there, Get Differential Bushings and get Lower Control Arm Bushings...both are pretty easily installed, affordable and are absolutely worth it.

BMR has em' pretty cheap (not a bmr sponsor either

)

Just a suggestion for you..... There is A LOT of flex in those spots.

Birm · 12-24-2013, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thahemp

Yeah... I don't have a lift either. We're gonna have to get creative.

Multiple Jacks and Multiple Jack Stands lol.

Birm · 12-24-2013, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Firefighter

What's the best thing to do with the stock manifolds and cats once I install the headers? Keep them or scrap them for $$$? Odds of me ever going bact to stock is non existent.

Quote:

Originally Posted by thahemp

If you have plugs for the holes in the midpipes you might as well just unhook them both.

Mine are still collecting dust! No plans for them yet... never know when old car parts might come in handy.

Cats are worth about $80-100 at a scrap yard for the platinum inside them. I save the manifolds incase you ever went back to stock. Or you can see what the scrap yard will give you.

Nightmare2012 · 12-24-2013, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TornadoSS

Well, I'm not sure of any way to eliminate the abs codes. Your front and rear tire sizes are nearly a 1/2" different in diameter. This is most likely setting off the lights. Hopefully someone will chime in here for sure about whether it can be adjusted. You might check all your abs sensors around your wheels and make sure they didn't get damaged by the shop or a tire rubbing issue.

My mistake its a 255/35/20 front so there's my probelm

Nightmare2012 · 12-24-2013, 12:15 PM

What's the ideal margin of wheel difference before it triggers a abs code? Cause I have a 285/35/20 tire I can mount on the fron

TornadoSS · 12-24-2013, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nightmare2012

What's the ideal margin of wheel difference before it triggers a abs code? Cause I have a 285/35/20 tire I can mount on the fron

Usually it triggers around a 1/2" difference. If you stay under that, should be good to go.

mikeyg36 · 12-24-2013, 01:46 PM

Okay I just tightened everything up and took it for a drive. The driver side is noticeably quieter now. The pass side clamps are squeaking now so when it cools down I'll spray them with WD-40. I also have a rattle from the pass side whenever I accelerate from a stop; I think it's the rear o2 that I just tucked away on that side, so I'll go under there and zip tie it later.

12-23-2013, 11:45 PM	#8065
thahemp Geek Drives: 2012 Black LS3 Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Derby, KS Posts: 4,343 View My Garage	If it's a diameter problem just tell Shawn. __________________ 01000111011011110110111101100100001000000110110001 11010101100011011010110010000001110111011010010111 01000110100000100000011101000110100001101001011100 110010000001101111011011100110010100100001 x = ac97968bd3df8f968c8cd3df998a9c94d3df9c8a918bd3df9c 909c94df8c8a9c949a8dd3df92908b979a8ddf998a9c949a8d d3df8b968b8cd1 x = ~x

12-24-2013, 10:13 AM	#8071
thahemp Geek Drives: 2012 Black LS3 Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Derby, KS Posts: 4,343 View My Garage	Yeah... I don't have a lift either. We're gonna have to get creative. __________________ 01000111011011110110111101100100001000000110110001 11010101100011011010110010000001110111011010010111 01000110100000100000011101000110100001101001011100 110010000001101111011011100110010100100001 x = ac97968bd3df8f968c8cd3df998a9c94d3df9c8a918bd3df9c 909c94df8c8a9c949a8dd3df92908b979a8ddf998a9c949a8d d3df8b968b8cd1 x = ~x

12-24-2013, 06:42 AM	#8067
Neumatic Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS M6 Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,448 View My Garage	Or to be sure you don't touch it you can use soapy water .

12-24-2013, 12:15 PM	#8076
Nightmare2012 come find out;) Drives: stockish 2012 camaro ss Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: speed county Posts: 2,166 View My Garage	What's the ideal margin of wheel difference before it triggers a abs code? Cause I have a 285/35/20 tire I can mount on the fron

12-24-2013, 01:46 PM	#8078
mikeyg36 Drives: 2015 Z/28 #533 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: NY Posts: 6,732	Okay I just tightened everything up and took it for a drive. The driver side is noticeably quieter now. The pass side clamps are squeaking now so when it cools down I'll spray them with WD-40. I also have a rattle from the pass side whenever I accelerate from a stop; I think it's the rear o2 that I just tucked away on that side, so I'll go under there and zip tie it later.