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Old 08-09-2012, 11:23 PM   #71
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If you want to do a demo install at SEMA I will make my ZL1 available!! I'm sure we can work out something...
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:50 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snapp32e View Post
So can you "feel" a difference in the performance of the car? Does it eliminate the sluggish feel at warm ambient temperatures?
yes i can feel it. the car is more responsive and certainly has more umph. its like driving it on a cool morning all the time. of course i am using my butt dyno and dont have any actual solid proof except the temperature readings i posted earlier in the thread. ill have to get back down to rev extreme for some serious testing and data logging for the non believers.
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:53 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by 2012ZL1 View Post
Yes, thats what they do. delete the heat from the hvac system, because its not needed anyhow.
Yes it is only radiated cooling.
What you said makes sense on the condensation (comp mode). Thank you.
So is there no condensation build up at the exchanger in your set up?
Why does the compressor have to cut out during full throttle?
Thanks
all the newer high h.p cars the compressor shuts down at w.o.t i think to save wear an tear on the compressor.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:41 PM   #74
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Timing is pulled to protect the engine as the hotter the intake air temps the more likely detonation will take place and that is devastating.

The condensation is from removing moisture from the air....so anytime you are doing air across a evaporator you have a large amount of condensation and it drips out the evap drain tube. On the RX Superchiller, it is an insulated entirely sealed unit that the freon expands from a liquid to a gas inside of a stainless heat exchanger that the coolant liquid flows through as well. No humid air is passing a cooled evaporator so no condensation. This uses direct transfer of the heat/cold so the efficiency is very high, and all the HVAC stays intact as stock. The competition mode allows the cabin AC to be shut off so no condensation is present. Now, the low side lines will always drip a drop or two but that is not a safety issue.

And yes, all AC comp shut off at WOT for the HP savings and to reduce stress on the compressor. You may be able to change in the tune at what throttle position the comp disengages.
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Old 08-11-2012, 04:27 PM   #75
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Ordered my Super Chiller this week! Looking forward to seeing how it performs after my mods in Arizona! I'll post details!

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234327
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:43 PM   #76
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Question, so if the chiller is reducing temperatures below ambient levels will the heat exchanger in the front of the car in fact be working against the system by allowing warmer air to heat the fluid or is there a bypass that allows the coolant to loop and just run through the chiller itself?
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:48 PM   #77
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The heat exchanger is bypassed while in chiller mode. When you turn the AC off it will switch back to the heat exchanger.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:53 PM   #78
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So in theory, you could run without a heat exchanger at all. Correct?
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:55 PM   #79
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Yes you could but it would require you to run the AC all year round. You want the HEX in place for when you turn off the AC in the winter. You will also want it for emergency back up in case you have an AC system failure.
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Old 08-11-2012, 09:03 PM   #80
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I had no idea it bypassed the hx when it operated. I guess in order to chill that water it has to be a small amount in that tiny insulated box. But wouldn't the chilled water take longer to heat up(at wot)if it was a larger volume, like what the hx holds?
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Old 08-11-2012, 09:10 PM   #81
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You can get a full understanding of the system operation here. While the AC is running the HEX is by-passed and the coolant is flowing through the chiller. When you turn the AC off it switches back to the HEX.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99515

The chiller is extremely efficient and actually holds just as much coolant as the HEX does. The total factory capacity is only 2.4 qts and about 1 qt of that is in the HEX. In a drag race situation you don't have much concern with the coolant heating up because you're only talking about 12 seconds and then you're off the throttle and back on the chiller. But on a road course you will want a separate insulated reservoir (1-2 gallons) to make sure you have cooled fluid flowing at all times (WOT).
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Old 08-11-2012, 09:18 PM   #82
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I've been following that thread for some time now, but didn't catch the part about bypassing the hx when the compressor shuts off at wot. It makes sense. No biggie. That explains why the coolant will heat back of so quick down the 1/4.

I'm not interested in the discussions about road racing with this, cause the strip is kinda my thing, and this looks like the best option for racing in FL. During the summer, I lose 5mph trap speed and a few tenths. I am VERY interested in getting this done as my next mod.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 08-11-2012, 09:44 PM   #83
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This is a nice system. Just not going to be getting one. Way too much of an install, and I don't want to pay $800 just to pay a shop with an AC recovery system more money to install it.

I think I will just try a reservoir and possibly a bigger pump. I can install those.
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Old 08-12-2012, 12:12 AM   #84
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i was there hands on for the install and it really wasnt that tough. it took a little longer since it was the first install on a ZL-1 and they had me there asking them to move this or that so it couldnt be seen other than that smooth sailing!
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