[FIXED] What Is Wrong With My Car AGAIN - Page 6 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

ron123 · 12-22-2015, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeless Man

Does the Camaro have to be really high to get it out? My stands don't go super high barely was able to get my driver side header out couldn't maneuver it cause of the steering column but if my jack would've went higher I could've got it out easily

Would be highly unusual that a Camaro with only 12,000 miles would need a new starter ... did you crank the engine for long periods of time in the past and overheat the starter?
Before going under my car I put it up on super strong ramps made from some planks. Couple of 2x10 planks (makes it 9.5" wide which matches close to SS tires). Depending on number of steps needed and how wide you want to make each step allows wide choice in total board length you need.
On the top step I can add a temp extra layer to make it 7.5" high (1.5" times 5).

Ron

Homeless Man · 12-22-2015, 09:21 PM

Thanks for the info stock block and everyone else. That would blow if I had to take the header off.
And Ron nope I haven't ever cranked for long periods of time not that I remember. I should probable take it to the dealer first anyways to see what they say. I think I have a recall anyways..something about license plate light idk lol

speedygonzales · 12-23-2015, 08:21 AM

The 5 year power train warranty will not cover it. So you're going to have to pay at the dealer.

When they get the car, the first thing the dealer will likely do is the "key" warranty and if you don't already have it, don't get it. So don't carry the car to them.

Some dealers will NOT do the key warranty, while others insist they have to do it. The excellent dealer that did my slave cylinder under the power train warranty refuses to do the key warranty. But I'm still getting mailers to have it done by another dealer that I refuse to go to since that other dealer is absolute garbage.

I can suggest you check the voltage across the battery when it cranks and then once the engine is running. While cranking you do NOT want the voltage to go below 11 volts. Once the engine is running you want to see at least 14 volts.

If all you get is a click or two inside the cabin right before you crank it over, relax and stop worrying. If you obsess over every little thing, you'll drive yourself nuts. Relax and enjoy the holidays.

Just a side note. My father owned a company near the corner of Wyoming and Rising Sun Ave. It's been gone for years now since he retired. I have very dear friends that live in Fishtown. Haven't had a chance to see them yet.

CamaroCracka · 12-24-2015, 05:21 PM

If you can install the headers you can swap the starter. You don't even have to disconnect the batter in the trunk. The starter hot goes to the red box on the drivers side of the engine compartment.

You will probably need to loosen the passenger side header but not remove completely.

I'm not really convinced it's the starter though. Low miles and these starters are pretty stout. I packed the one on my Silverado with mud until it acted dead. I just cleaned it out and she still works great several years later.

Nor Cal ZL1 · 12-24-2015, 07:22 PM

If your going to be messing around with the starter, disconnect the battery. Leaving the battery connected when removing it is asking for trouble, even if you pull the red from the engine bay connection. Remove negative first, red positive second. Reconnect positive first, negative last.

CamaroCracka · 12-25-2015, 08:39 AM

Stack it like you like it, but when you disconnect the engine bay cable there is no power running to the starter. Been there done that a couple times.

Homeless Man · 12-25-2015, 11:44 AM

Lol speedygonzales I don't think I'm obsessing over every little thing. Sometimes when I crank it doesn't do anything and I have to take the key out and put it back in. And once it wouldn't turn on until the next day. I don't think that is nothing to worry about. But anyways I've been driving my car pretty much everyday with mostly no problems. I'll probably take it to the dealership sometime in the near future anyways. And if I mess with the starter don't worry I'll disconnect the battery it's not that hard lol

Nor Cal ZL1 · 12-25-2015, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

Stack it like you like it, but when you disconnect the engine bay cable there is no power running to the starter. Been there done that a couple times.

That may be true, but giving advice to unknown skill levels it is best to play it safe.

Homeless Man · 12-27-2015, 06:20 PM

Wow had somewhere to get to fast this morning and car wouldn't start. No cranking and this time a buzzing sound coming from somewhere other than the fuse box when the key is in and on electricity position. Definitely taking it to the dealer ASAP

Homeless Man · 12-28-2015, 09:47 AM

Well after having the battery cable disconnected overnight, unlike last time I tried that it didn't start today. When they key is in on accessory mode everything turns on regularly except there is a check engine light and when I turn the key nothing happens. There is a buzzing sound now not from the fuse box and it isn't very loud. What could that be? The voltage is at 12 with the key in. I tried jump starting it to see if it does anything but nope.

stock block · 12-28-2015, 10:31 AM

Maybe it's just one of the wires going to the starter. Could of knocked one bit off or maybe the headers burnt one of the wires and the exposed copper is grounding out on some metal

Soybeanrice · 12-28-2015, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeless Man

Well after having the battery cable disconnected overnight, unlike last time I tried that it didn't start today. When they key is in on accessory mode everything turns on regularly except there is a check engine light and when I turn the key nothing happens. There is a buzzing sound now not from the fuse box and it isn't very loud. What could that be? The voltage is at 12 with the key in. I tried jump starting it to see if it does anything but nope.

I know youve had the battery checked, but I dont think 12 is enough to start it ... need 14

Homeless Man · 12-28-2015, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soybeanrice

I know youve had the battery checked, but I dont think 12 is enough to start it ... need 14

I tried jump starting it lol it can't be the battery it doesn't even crank

Edit: and I just changed the battery to my other one and same thing. By the way the buzzing sound come on for 2 seconds and turns off for 2 seconds and keeps repeating over and over idk

Homeless Man · 12-31-2015, 07:34 PM

[FIXED] So after it wouldn't start at all had it flat bedded to the dealer (really should get a tow hook now lol) everyone was wrong the problem turned out to be "internal failure in powertrain control module DTC P0606 00-PCM internal fault" it was fixed in 1 day (tomorrow is New Years) under WARRANTY. So my 2011 Camaro SS with CAI, longtube headers, hiflow cats, no mufflers, and a dyno tune was fixed under warranty. The only bad thing is I lost the tune. Oh well turned out better than I thought.

12-22-2015, 09:21 PM	#72
Homeless Man Homeless Life Chose Me Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Streets of Philly Posts: 3,648	Thanks for the info stock block and everyone else. That would blow if I had to take the header off. And Ron nope I haven't ever cranked for long periods of time not that I remember. I should probable take it to the dealer first anyways to see what they say. I think I have a recall anyways..something about license plate light idk lol __________________ Pity a man in familiar places, who yet feels like a stranger.

12-23-2015, 08:21 AM	#73
speedygonzales Drives: 99 z71, 2012 2SS Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Smithfield, VA Posts: 205 View My Garage	The 5 year power train warranty will not cover it. So you're going to have to pay at the dealer. When they get the car, the first thing the dealer will likely do is the "key" warranty and if you don't already have it, don't get it. So don't carry the car to them. Some dealers will NOT do the key warranty, while others insist they have to do it. The excellent dealer that did my slave cylinder under the power train warranty refuses to do the key warranty. But I'm still getting mailers to have it done by another dealer that I refuse to go to since that other dealer is absolute garbage. I can suggest you check the voltage across the battery when it cranks and then once the engine is running. While cranking you do NOT want the voltage to go below 11 volts. Once the engine is running you want to see at least 14 volts. If all you get is a click or two inside the cabin right before you crank it over, relax and stop worrying. If you obsess over every little thing, you'll drive yourself nuts. Relax and enjoy the holidays. Just a side note. My father owned a company near the corner of Wyoming and Rising Sun Ave. It's been gone for years now since he retired. I have very dear friends that live in Fishtown. Haven't had a chance to see them yet. __________________ Fix your garage pics so we can see them

12-24-2015, 05:21 PM	#74
CamaroCracka Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Palm Bay, FL Posts: 3,053	If you can install the headers you can swap the starter. You don't even have to disconnect the batter in the trunk. The starter hot goes to the red box on the drivers side of the engine compartment. You will probably need to loosen the passenger side header but not remove completely. I'm not really convinced it's the starter though. Low miles and these starters are pretty stout. I packed the one on my Silverado with mud until it acted dead. I just cleaned it out and she still works great several years later. __________________ 2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes. 2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.

12-25-2015, 08:39 AM	#76
CamaroCracka Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Palm Bay, FL Posts: 3,053	Stack it like you like it, but when you disconnect the engine bay cable there is no power running to the starter. Been there done that a couple times. __________________ 2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes. 2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.

12-25-2015, 11:44 AM	#77
Homeless Man Homeless Life Chose Me Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Streets of Philly Posts: 3,648	Lol speedygonzales I don't think I'm obsessing over every little thing. Sometimes when I crank it doesn't do anything and I have to take the key out and put it back in. And once it wouldn't turn on until the next day. I don't think that is nothing to worry about. But anyways I've been driving my car pretty much everyday with mostly no problems. I'll probably take it to the dealership sometime in the near future anyways. And if I mess with the starter don't worry I'll disconnect the battery it's not that hard lol __________________ Pity a man in familiar places, who yet feels like a stranger.

12-24-2015, 07:22 PM	#75
Nor Cal ZL1 Drives: 2013 ZL1 M6 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,825	If your going to be messing around with the starter, disconnect the battery. Leaving the battery connected when removing it is asking for trouble, even if you pull the red from the engine bay connection. Remove negative first, red positive second. Reconnect positive first, negative last.

12-27-2015, 06:20 PM	#79
Homeless Man Homeless Life Chose Me Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Streets of Philly Posts: 3,648	Wow had somewhere to get to fast this morning and car wouldn't start. No cranking and this time a buzzing sound coming from somewhere other than the fuse box when the key is in and on electricity position. Definitely taking it to the dealer ASAP __________________ Pity a man in familiar places, who yet feels like a stranger.

12-28-2015, 09:47 AM	#80
Homeless Man Homeless Life Chose Me Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Streets of Philly Posts: 3,648	Well after having the battery cable disconnected overnight, unlike last time I tried that it didn't start today. When they key is in on accessory mode everything turns on regularly except there is a check engine light and when I turn the key nothing happens. There is a buzzing sound now not from the fuse box and it isn't very loud. What could that be? The voltage is at 12 with the key in. I tried jump starting it to see if it does anything but nope. __________________ Pity a man in familiar places, who yet feels like a stranger.

12-28-2015, 10:31 AM	#81
stock block Drives: 2015 zl1 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Calgary Posts: 200	Maybe it's just one of the wires going to the starter. Could of knocked one bit off or maybe the headers burnt one of the wires and the exposed copper is grounding out on some metal

12-31-2015, 07:34 PM	#84
Homeless Man Homeless Life Chose Me Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Streets of Philly Posts: 3,648	[FIXED] So after it wouldn't start at all had it flat bedded to the dealer (really should get a tow hook now lol) everyone was wrong the problem turned out to be "internal failure in powertrain control module DTC P0606 00-PCM internal fault" it was fixed in 1 day (tomorrow is New Years) under WARRANTY. So my 2011 Camaro SS with CAI, longtube headers, hiflow cats, no mufflers, and a dyno tune was fixed under warranty. The only bad thing is I lost the tune. Oh well turned out better than I thought. __________________ Pity a man in familiar places, who yet feels like a stranger.