Finally...twin turbos for my LFX

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by Nutbutt

Now I understand, I have seen that clean side breather. I was told that it needed a check valve as this is only to add air with another oil separator in line.
A setup without another can could have caused it. Really surprised the mightymouse guys wouldn't have told you. I have found the GM breather on the clean side with stainless material added to the inside adds good protection to the clean side.
Let me know how the new can works out. I have gone through 3 different ones and still not satisfied.

This is my 4th catch can.

And I had everything hooked up EXACTLY like Mightymouse wanted. I think I irritated him because I emailed him back and forth so many times trying to understand how it works and how it should be hooked up.

[Tajefe Couple]

I run that same clean side separator with an Elite catch can and plugged off the crankcase cover. The separator then runs to my CAI. Before I was using it the intake manifold was getting a lot of oil past the throttle body from the factory set up on the clean side. Now with the elite separator the line is oil free every time I check it. Works great and can be cleaned like a catch can.

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by JantzenOKC

2 down, 4 to go.

FYI Techron cleans carbon real well. Get it at the parts store and soak the parts. Works great...

-Don

[alice]

In my opinion, the Elite E2X Ultra is one of the best, if not the best oil catch can on the market today. I have these on my 2010 Camaro LLT Twin Turbo and I get more oil out of these than any others I have tried. This is the top choice for my projects.

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by tajefe

So I found a source for p/n 13580684 and got one in today.
It seems to slide on both sets of splines like it should. I won't take up your page with a bunch of pics. This however is how they always have gone on when I did them on my front wheel or four wheel drives. They slide most of the way in and you torque the rest of the way down.
You of course can be the judge but the company I got the hubs you have from said the below to me.

"We have a berger Camaro here on our lot that has the 22813177 and 22813178 axle shafts on it, the hub part number I sold you is the same hub as well. I showed your pictures to one of our techs and he said it looks correct, the shaft will press into the hub as it is tightened. If you are still leary about the hubs you can always send them back for a refund. Although they are the only hubs that are shown for that application."

Let me know if you want the source for the new old stock ones(seems odd to call it NOS for a '12 Camaro) and I'll send it to you.

Ok so I installed my axles and hubs last night. The splines pulled through and bottomed out just like they should. It was a tight fit but it went. I'm guessing they tightened up those splines for a reason, probably noise.

I used ACDelco part # RW20-161 for the hub-bearings and these are my axle part #'s:

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by hammdo

FYI Techron cleans carbon real well. Get it at the parts store and soak the parts. Works great...

-Don

I'll have to try that. Thanks.

[JantzenOKC]

Rear end is done.

[JantzenOKC]

Test fit the 18" wheels, the offset looks perfect. This thing is going to look mean with 18" DR's on the back!

[JantzenOKC]

Loving the red parts!

[Tajefe Couple]

Nice
I wouldn't want to take it out in the rain now either lol.

[Tajefe Couple]

Originally Posted by JantzenOKC

Ok so I installed my axles and hubs last night. The splines pulled through and bottomed out just like they should. It was a tight fit but it went. I'm guessing they tightened up those splines for a reason, probably noise.

I used ACDelco part # RW20-161 for the hub-bearings and these are my axle part #'s:

Appreciate it.
I found if you have the original axles from a '10-'11 like I do you need the old hub bearing. It seems to allow for the axle flaring out on the inside.
Or the parts can be replaced with the new axles and hubs as you did.
I also believe you mentioned something about those years. After you mentioned that I remembered those had the old axles and hubs that where prone to breaking a lot. That would explain why they are discontinued and replaced with the new parts. It would also explain the tighter fit, and longer splines. I would agree with you and think what you have would be much better than the old set up.

[derek1387]

So...for those of us who WANT to change the rear subframe bushings, but dont have access to a lift...what do you recommend? I have my car on jackstands now finishing up my 1LE suspension swap, and exhaust.....

Thanks. Love your build thread. Lots of awesome info here.

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by derek1387

So...for those of us who WANT to change the rear subframe bushings, but dont have access to a lift...what do you recommend? I have my car on jackstands now finishing up my 1LE suspension swap, and exhaust.....

Thanks. Love your build thread. Lots of awesome info here.

There is a pretty good video around here somewhere showing a guy just using two jacks, a 1" socket and a propane torch. I actually think that would be easier than the way I did it with the cradle on the ground. Those things did not come out easy. The weight of the car would help a lot.

[derek1387]

Originally Posted by JantzenOKC

There is a pretty good video around here somewhere showing a guy just using two jacks, a 1" socket and a propane torch. I actually think that would be easier than the way I did it with the cradle on the ground. Those things did not come out easy. The weight of the car would help a lot.

Thanks, ill see what i can find.

That and the trailing arms are all i need to do to finish up my 1LE swap, and i should be happy.