CAI & ATI + 5% Pulley Installed - Page 7 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

jayno20 · 08-24-2014, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jon6.0

If you are going to re-torque it I would loosen it first and then re-torque. When a bolt is already torqued down there is frictional forces involved that you have to overcome to get the bolt moving again. You could exceed your torque spec getting the bolt to move. You could also not be torqued to what you think because the friction is keeping the bolt from moving and you get a "click" before the bolt breaks free.

OK. I originally only torqued it to 220 then tried to get it to 235. I'll just leave it alone at this point lol.

cdjnight · 08-24-2014, 01:02 PM

An ARP bolt will stretch and it is how many pro engine builders measure rod bolts during installation. Lastly the bolt will stretch or pull the threads right out of the crank snout if continued to re torque with out loosening first. Every bolt will stretch a little and relax after heat cycles it may appear to be at a different torque or appear to be loose. The only accurate way to know is to measure its length just like they do on rod bolts. Ever wonder why there is a dimple in the head of an ARP bolt. That's for measuring.

Here's a link to ARP read up there's a lot of good info.
http://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php

jayno20 · 08-24-2014, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdjnight

An ARP bolt will stretch and it is how many pro engine builders measure rod bolts during installation. Lastly the bolt will stretch or pull the threads right out of the crank snout if continued to re torque with out loosening first. Every bolt will stretch a little and relax after heat cycles it may appear to be at a different torque or appear to be loose. The only accurate way to know is to measure its length just like they do on rod bolts. Ever wonder why there is a dimple in the head of an ARP bolt. That's for measuring.

Here's a link to ARP read up there's a lot of good info.
http://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php

so would it be ok to just leave it?

cdjnight · 08-25-2014, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayno20

so would it be ok to just leave it?

I would say you'll be fine having done it just a couple times. If you went out once a week and torqued it again sooner or later it will pull the threads or break the bolt. Just not a good habit to get into.

jayno20 · 08-25-2014, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdjnight

I would say you'll be fine having done it just a couple times. If you went out once a week and torqued it again sooner or later it will pull the threads or break the bolt. Just not a good habit to get into.

Good. I won't do it anymore then.

hognutz · 08-25-2014, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt_ZL1

What if the balancer isn't seated and after running it seats a little bit more and he torques it? If a bolt,is torqued correctly you should be able to go back a In a year and it should still click without turning.

if you hit 235lb and the blance is not seated you have another issue. the blancer is probabably seated by 60lbs. the arp is a good bolt though as long as you use the supplied toque lube you should not have the stretch issues that can happen without it.

jayno20 · 08-26-2014, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hognutz

if you hit 235lb and the blance is not seated you have another issue. the blancer is probabably seated by 60lbs. the arp is a good bolt though as long as you use the supplied toque lube you should not have the stretch issues that can happen without it.

I did use that lube that came with the ARP bolt. The pulley lines up and the belts are on just fine and the bolt hit 235 ft lbs. Seems like all is well. I have put about 200 miles on it since then so seems like if there was a problem I would have seen it by now.

Shrek · 08-26-2014, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayno20

I did use that lube that came with the ARP bolt. The pulley lines up and the belts are on just fine and the bolt hit 235 ft lbs. Seems like all is well. I have put about 200 miles on it since then so seems like if there was a problem I would have seen it by now.

The lube that comes with the bolt is for the washer. You are supposed to use red loctite on the threads.

ZMEnow · 08-26-2014, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrek

The lube that comes with the bolt is for the washer. You are supposed to use red loctite on the threads.

You can apply the anti-seize to the bolt threads as well, and ARP requires red loctite at the end of the bolt.

Once all the critical measurements check out, the damper is ready for installation. First, apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the crank snout and the inside bore of the damper. Do not get any anti-seize on the timing-cover seal as it can be very abrasive. Apply a thin coat of engine oil or assembly lube to seal surface on the dampener. This keeps the front seal from running dry during initial startup.

jayno20 · 08-27-2014, 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

You can apply the anti-seize to the bolt threads as well, and ARP requires red loctite at the end of the bolt.

Once all the critical measurements check out, the damper is ready for installation. First, apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the crank snout and the inside bore of the damper. Do not get any anti-seize on the timing-cover seal as it can be very abrasive. Apply a thin coat of engine oil or assembly lube to seal surface on the dampener. This keeps the front seal from running dry during initial startup.

Instructions straight from ARP's website say nothing about red loctite. Only the lube provided...

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/234-2503.pdf

Shrek · 08-27-2014, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayno20

Instructions straight from ARP's website say nothing about red loctite. Only the lube provided...

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/234-2503.pdf

It's on the ati super damper install instructions.

JackalopeZL1 · 08-27-2014, 10:27 AM

red loctite is the last thing I would want on those threads.. would make for a very eventful removal later

jayno20 · 08-27-2014, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackalopeZL1

red loctite is the last thing I would want on those threads.. would make for a very eventful removal later

I also don't want this thing backing out over time though... Not sure if that is a problem or not but it seems to be for the corvette peoples.

CRTZL1 · 09-12-2014, 01:08 AM

Do you need a tune for this 5 percent overdrive pulley and does driveability get affected at all?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

08-24-2014, 01:02 PM	#86
cdjnight Drives: 2013 ZL1 A6 Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Council Bluffs, Iowa Posts: 266	An ARP bolt will stretch and it is how many pro engine builders measure rod bolts during installation. Lastly the bolt will stretch or pull the threads right out of the crank snout if continued to re torque with out loosening first. Every bolt will stretch a little and relax after heat cycles it may appear to be at a different torque or appear to be loose. The only accurate way to know is to measure its length just like they do on rod bolts. Ever wonder why there is a dimple in the head of an ARP bolt. That's for measuring. Here's a link to ARP read up there's a lot of good info. http://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php __________________

08-27-2014, 10:27 AM	#96
JackalopeZL1 Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 481	red loctite is the last thing I would want on those threads.. would make for a very eventful removal later __________________ 2013 Silver ZL1

09-12-2014, 01:08 AM	#98
CRTZL1 Banned Drives: 2013 CRT ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: N.Y. Posts: 1,545	Do you need a tune for this 5 percent overdrive pulley and does driveability get affected at all? Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk