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Old 12-16-2009, 10:26 PM   #85
Info@PeddersUSA.com
 
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Originally Posted by CGM2SSRS View Post
I need to make an observation here. What has been explained over and over in this thread by Aaron,Pete and Mike has nothing to do with individual ideology. It's as Pete put it fact 101. If this concept of bound bushings being a real DANGER factor seems like hogwash to you, I suggest you let a professional work on your car. (a look into my post history) will enlighten you to the reality. I was the one man wrecking crew with this very issue. And it created a very dangerous condition in track driving conditions. ReTiming the bushings after lowering a car should be like putting oil back in your car after dropping the oil.
It is amazing how something so simple can make such a difference. It also depends on how hard you drive as well. It is a issue to those that seriously put the peddle to the metal for sure. I am really glad it worked out for you, and we are seriously pleased to make you happy. Also, thanks a ton for reinforcing what we are saying. It was your ride and another that made us change our processes.

thanks again

mike
dms
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Old 12-16-2009, 10:44 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGM2SSRS View Post
I need to make an observation here. What has been explained over and over in this thread by Aaron,Pete and Mike has nothing to do with individual ideology. It's as Pete put it fact 101. If this concept of bound bushings being a real DANGER factor seems like hogwash to you, I suggest you let a professional work on your car. (a look into my post history) will enlighten you to the reality. I was the one man wrecking crew with this very issue. And it created a very dangerous condition in track driving conditions. ReTiming the bushings after lowering a car should be like putting oil back in your car after dropping the oil.
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Originally Posted by dms View Post
It is amazing how something so simple can make such a difference. It also depends on how hard you drive as well. It is a issue to those that seriously put the peddle to the metal for sure. I am really glad it worked out for you, and we are seriously pleased to make you happy. Also, thanks a ton for reinforcing what we are saying. It was your ride and another that made us change our processes.

thanks again

mike
dms
I couldn't agree more! If you don't set the bushings to the new ride height it will cause a couple of issues. The bushings won't reset over time, they will simply tear the bonded rubber to sleeve or the bushing to outer shell and you'll be left with bad bushings. The other effect is it also adds rebound force essentially which with the increased rate of aftermarket springs overwhelms the ability of the factory struts to control the wheel movement. I'd also recommend trying to stay with 1" drop springs unless you go to a shorter aftermarket strut, cutting bumpstops will cause the struts to wear faster and I'd try to avoid it if possible.

Kind regards,
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Old 12-17-2009, 09:43 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by BLACK10 View Post
guys, this is rediculas!

this is turning into a pissing contest between companies trying to one up each other. HE IS NOT ROAD RACING THE CAR, JUST WANTS IT TO LOOK BETTER.

JEFFNY09, just lower your car and get it aligned, but if you want to start unbolting all those that were pointed out , then thats up to you.

but he said it here..... "The rubber will creep over time and they will eventually find a new happy position"
Pedders and Pfadt agree if you're doing it right the first time, do this step.
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Originally Posted by Milk 1027 View Post
I really dont see what you are talking about. Just two companies giving there perspectives and advice. They are all being respectful and informative, and I'm sure we all appreciate it very much.
VERY good thread, thanks to all the pro suspension guys for a thread worth tagging.
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