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Old 06-30-2012, 05:20 PM   #1219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC-V View Post
I am Fabbing a brake and clutch res. out of aluminum for my CtS-V at the moment, just waiting on some fittings. Once done I am planning on the same for the Camaro. Maybe I can get up to visual impact performance systems (the place Nathan got the power-steering res. from) and see what they can do. hmmm
Kyle, we keep replacing parts and there's not going to be much left that came from GM, LOL.

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Originally Posted by Farthestnorth View Post
Thanks bud, a lot of time and paint and work but it's well worth the end result! By the way i love that brake reservoir totally sweet!
Definitely a lot of time Tim and it shows in your results.

Speaking of time, I spent this morning working on the engine. Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. After I'm done, I'm going to sand blast the whole engine.

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Started the front of the engine inside the timing cover area today, almost finish!

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Old 06-30-2012, 10:15 PM   #1220
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My Modest Engine Bay

Nathan, as requested here are some shots of my engine bay--still a work in progress. Going to change out some of the hoses, change the fittings and clamps on the catch can, add a carbon fiber piece in front of the radiator and move the evap solenoid nearer to the fuse box.

What I have in the pics below is Showstopper covers in Carbon Flash Metallic with matte black inserts, billet caps from Chevy Mall, Holley valve covers powder coated in carbon flash metallic, Roto-Fab radiator cover powder coated satin black, 2012 heater hoses, Cold Air Inductions black CAI, MSD spark plug wires, Elite Engineering catch can, flipped fuel rail, minor clean-up on coil and injector wiring harness, and billet strut caps from SLP.
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Last edited by My 5th; 06-30-2012 at 10:18 PM. Reason: Add strut caps
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:27 PM   #1221
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Well you sure have a problem when you polish the valley...
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Old 06-30-2012, 11:13 PM   #1222
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Originally Posted by Synner View Post
Thats only for the clutch. The nicest thing I've seen done to the actual brake reservoir so far is someone hydro-dipped it. Not a fan of the big covers that go over everything.
Its a 4th gen, but you get the idea...

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Old 07-01-2012, 10:53 AM   #1223
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Originally Posted by My 5th View Post
Nathan, as requested here are some shots of my engine bay--still a work in progress. Going to change out some of the hoses, change the fittings and clamps on the catch can, add a carbon fiber piece in front of the radiator and move the evap solenoid nearer to the fuse box.

What I have in the pics below is Showstopper covers in Carbon Flash Metallic with matte black inserts, billet caps from Chevy Mall, Holley valve covers powder coated in carbon flash metallic, Roto-Fab radiator cover powder coated satin black, 2012 heater hoses, Cold Air Inductions black CAI, MSD spark plug wires, Elite Engineering catch can, flipped fuel rail, minor clean-up on coil and injector wiring harness, and billet strut caps from SLP.
My 5th thanks for posting, keep up the great work! Remember, we love pictures. Posted your bay on the OP gallery

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Well you sure have a problem when you polish the valley...
LC, I hit the valley with 150 cartridges followed by 220, 400. Then block sanded by hand, getting rid of any waves the machining did, Finally I scotch brite the entire valley. I forgot to take pics of the finish look all cleaned up. But it has a really nice machined look. I'm not going to polish because to do a really good job requires lots of heat being created by the buffer pressing giants the metal. The buffing cartridges that allow you to get into all the nooks and cranny are to small and wont allow you to do that. So you end up with just a sheen look. My goal was primary to get rid of all the casting and weight saving benefit I might get. Even though I being very detailed, my primary goal is to build a performance machine. At the end of the day, thats what going to put a smile o my face.
The pictures I posted were not of the finished look (forgot to but didn't take good pics. It looks really clean. I'm not going to polish as to get a really good finish, you need heat from friction. It's

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Originally Posted by OVRKILL View Post
Its a 4th gen, but you get the idea...

Hey Brent! Any updates on "Monster Overkill"?

By the way, these are a couple of 69 Camaro projects I've been following with killer bays. Thought you guys get a kick...... this takes it to a whole new level of what I called a killer bay!!!! The metal workmanship is simply amazing.

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Old 07-01-2012, 11:41 AM   #1224
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Nice !!!

Images remind me of the Concept Camaro Engine Bay. Albeit, the plastic shroud is not as nice as the metal shrouds. (Old 2007 concept car with a LS2)

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Old 07-01-2012, 05:55 PM   #1225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno View Post

Hey Brent! Any updates on "Monster Overkill"?
Into the slow painful, time consuming detail stuff now Nathan. More updates soon.....you should see the AC stuff

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Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno View Post
By the way, these are a couple of 69 Camaro projects I've been following with killer bays. Thought you guys get a kick...... this takes it to a whole new level of what I called a killer bay!!!! The metal workmanship is simply
I see we troll the same grounds....those guys are crazier than you! . Might be posting a few updates over there later in the week....
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:21 PM   #1226
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So, still beating a dead horse, but I need some info regarding changing out the heater hoses. I'm probably just over-thinking it but looking at the Tech AFX instructions (I just have the JDP heater hose relocation set, no instructions included), if I'm just doing the heater hose replacement, I can skip the steps regarding moving the fuel lines/rails? If I still need to do this I think I tackled a project I'm not able to finish .

Specifically, I do the steps on pages 1-35, then pick up again for pages 82-92(As well as the part about bleeding the radiator)?

http://www.techafx.com/sites/techafx.com/files/Camaro_hose_instructions.pdf

Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:40 PM   #1227
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http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183191

Here ya go. JDP wrote up a DIY that is just for their 2012 hoses.
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:34 PM   #1228
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Originally Posted by Pharmaro View Post
So, still beating a dead horse, but I need some info regarding changing out the heater hoses. I'm probably just over-thinking it but looking at the Tech AFX instructions (I just have the JDP heater hose relocation set, no instructions included), if I'm just doing the heater hose replacement, I can skip the steps regarding moving the fuel lines/rails? If I still need to do this I think I tackled a project I'm not able to finish .

Specifically, I do the steps on pages 1-35, then pick up again for pages 82-92(As well as the part about bleeding the radiator)?

http://www.techafx.com/sites/techafx.com/files/Camaro_hose_instructions.pdf

Thanks in advance!
Relocating the heater hose will make a huge difference in cleaning up the bay. Don't hesitate to ask if you have any question......... here to help


Little update: Doing the research on parts for the 418 stroke rotating assembly.

also the saga continues........ everything in the circles was smooth out. The areas that are smooth I had already grinded down but forgot to take before pics. Next will be sand blasting the whole thing before sending it to get machined. I tossing the idea of powder coating the block........., just a thought right now.

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These pictures give an idea of rough the factory casting is.

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And here is the after.... still need a little more attention before my OCD is satisfied, LOL

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Notice the lines running under the cylinder are no longer there.

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I thought this was kind of funny, as was grinding, the "A1" emerged from under the rough casting. I would had never known it was hiding under there.
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Last edited by Moreno1; 07-02-2012 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:47 PM   #1229
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OK Mr. OCD, here's what you do next...
When you get that block all polished, machined and cleaned install one or more video cameras inside so you can see all that polishing you just did.LOL (actually that might be kinda cool).

Seriously, I think you are actually making the block a little stronger, as well as oil drain-back friendly. Just make sure they clean it really well, you don't want any grit or metal dust inside your oil passages. And I don't think there's any way you can polish inside there! Oh, and I'd be careful about grinding those raised pads by the crank journals--they might require a certain tolerance for proper torque and fit of the crank end caps/girdles.

I hope I'm still this side of the daisies when you get your car finished.
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:16 PM   #1230
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Nathan is a MONSTER!


Dang brotha!
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:23 PM   #1231
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did you weigh it before?
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:29 PM   #1232
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This project just entered a whole new dimension of crazy. Ive seen guus debur engine blocks before but this is insane, your next purchase should be a straight jacket to keep your hands off the grinder. Lol
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