'14 AGM 1SS/1LE Track build [COTW 11/17/14]

[X25]

Originally Posted by Bens1le

Hi
Where did you get those ?

Thx

ZL1 Addons 1087 Pinch Weld Magnetic Jack Pads - Set of 4
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H3U...28360_TE_dp_10

[Bens1le]

Thank you

I did the rad install

Pm me if you need any help
B

[X25]

Originally Posted by Bens1le

Thank you

I did the rad install

Pm me if you need any help
B

Sounds good, thanks!

[X25]

Had good progress this weekend:

It doesn't remove the metal sleeve, so it's essentially waste of time if you won't cut the sleeve with a reciprocal saw.


Gooey bushings..


As was mentioned in other threads, the radius rod bolt hits the windshield fluid. Thankfully, loosening the bolts is sufficient to get enough clearance.


This spindle was impossible to knock off. I almost broke the bolt hitting it with the hammer. In the end, 2 minutes of heating the hub with the heat gun did the trick!


The radius rod is finally out!


The plastic cover in front of the washer fluid container can easily be cut for the brake ducting, and has perfect size for my NACA ducts.

[X25]

I'm picking up the coated long tube headers + x-pipe tomorrow. The front sway bar installation instructions state that the engine needs to be shifted by 2 inches in order to swap the sways, and it does not mention having to remove anything from the engine besides the engine mount bolts in order to do so. If 2 inches of extra clearance + lowered front sub-frame is enough, I think I could do both sways and the oil pan baffling at the same time!

I will be stabilizing the engine with an Harbor Freight engine cradle:


BMR fornt sway bar instructions:
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/SB038.pdf

[X25]

The exhaust (except muffler) is not coated with 2000 degrees F coating. I'm hoping this will substantially reduce the temps in the engine bay. I will also wrap the cats with DEI heat wraps in addition if the clearance allows me to do so. Since they're high-flow type, they should not overheat due to wrapping (since they're usually running even under the temp).

The front bushings are also done today! Up next: front sways, radiator, and oil pan baffle.



Before coating:


After 2000-degrees-F coating (in ice-gray color for stock-ish look):

[X25]

Had quite a bit of progress tonight. It was easier to lift the engine than I thought. I am hoping to have enough clearance to change the oil baffle, too; we'll see.

My brother asked me why I don't consider the engine mounts now that the engine is lifted. Very good question. BMR's new engine mount is claimed to have LITTLE TO NO AFFECT TO NVH. If this is true, it would be an amazing addition to my mods list. Has anyone installed one of those? I'll ask the question in 1LE section, too.

The engine mount I'm considering:


Screwed the strut bar bolt back to keep the engine support bar (cradle) from slipping.


Front sways installed at softest setting.


Feels like I can jack this engine up as much as I want; crazy. The lift also makes life much easier.


Engine support bar installed while the engine is at stock height. I will re-adjust and re-tension it once the engine is jacked up tomorrow.


The grease port did not thread on well. I used a liberal amount of threadlock, hoping it would keep it there. Even then, I don't think I'll ever use it since it might break off and piss me of when I attempt to use it with the grease gun.


The BMR sway (SB038) feels less than half as heavy as the stock bar. Stock bar is just insanely heavy.

[X25]

Just finished the brake ducting install. '14+ cars already have quite a few provisions for the ducting; it was pretty easy.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...19#post7942919

[camaro500]

Is the rad in?

[X25]

Originally Posted by camaro500

Is the rad in?

Looking at the engine bay, I realized I'd do most of the work from the top, and probably remove it from there, too, so I wanted to finish all the suspension/brake work first. I am pretty much done with the front suspension; I'll change the rear brakes as well, then next is the radiator!

I am trying to make it to a track day over the weekend, and I intend to finish the following beforehand:
- All fluids changed (engine oil changed; will need to change diff and transmission)
- Race pads, Motul RBF600, brake ducting (almost done)
- Suspension (done)
- Radiator
- The race harness
- Alignment

[Logan@THM]

Badass build man! If you need anything aftermarket in the future, shoot me a pm. I love giving price breaks to builds like this! These cars are a ton of fun on the road course.

[X25]

Originally Posted by Logan@THM

Badass build man! If you need anything aftermarket in the future, shoot me a pm. I love giving price breaks to builds like this! These cars are a ton of fun on the road course.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Who knows, I might need a BBK depending on how the stock brakes perform : )

[X25]

What a long day! I had quite a bit of progress. Finished brake ducting and revised the routing a bit, installed race pads, replaced transmission and engine oil, and fixed the hood strut that I've bent by accident the other day.

My mods list is turning green!

Current mods list (as of 9/14/14)
Legend: Planned | Procured | Installed

• Engine / Powertrain
  • TSP 304 LT Headers with 3" X Pipe (Catted) - $1009.98 + $173.75 = $1183.73 shipped.
    
  • DEI heat wraps / coil boots - $100 shipped.
    
  • 2000 degrees F matte-gray exhaust coating.
    
  • Diablosport Intune w/ custom tune from FSP - $489 shipped.
    
  • DeWitts radiator - $575 shipped.
  • BMR engine mounts - $259 shipped.
• Interior
  • Schroth Racing RallyE 3 ASM - $179.95.
• Handling
  • BC Racing ER 8kg/12kg coilovers; track-biased-valving. $1799 shipped.
    
  • BMR Bushings - $600 shipped.
    • BMR BK024 Cradle Bushings
      
    • BMR BK039 Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings
      
    • BMR TCA026 Trailing Arms (black)
      
    • BMR BK006 Rear Outer Trailing Arm Bushings
      
    • BMR BK018 Front Lower Control Arm Bushings
      
    • BMR BK019 Front Radius Rod Bushings
  • SB039 Sway Bar Package - $500 shipped.
    
  • Nitto NT01 285/35/20 tires $400.61 shipped x4 = $1602.40
• Brakes
  • Quantum - Competition Brake Cooling Kit - $239.95.
    • Naca ducts: $20.
  • ST43 R1001 Front pads - $261.45.
    
  • ST43 R592.15 Rear pads - $199.
    
  • Stock front rotor (92245928) - $69.45 shipped x2.
    
  • Stock rear rotor (92245929) - $85.31 shipped x2.
• Misc.
  • Blown smart-fuse for skip-shift - $1.
    
  • HSA elimination - $80 shipped.

[X25]

Update on remaining tasks:

1. I failed doing the oil pan baffle replacement. The engine support bar just cannot stay stable . I talked to a local shop, and will get it taken care of by them; they do have an engine cherry-pick : )
2. The only two jobs remaining before the track day on Saturday is the seat belts and the radiator. I looked around the radiator, and it just looks so easy! There's nothing that seems to be obscuring access to it. Should I do it before the track day, or after to see how much impact it makes during the next track day? I am not sure.
3. I am yet to receive the engine mounts, so it will have to wait. I intend to give it to the shop which will do the oil baffle change, since the engine mounts are loosened (and ready to be removed) during that job anyway.

Fromt the test drive for ducting:


Revised ducting layout