DIY: assembly and disassembly of the key fob

[Bell040]

Originally Posted by Haole

I read the post on how to program a new key fob. I'm awaiting my new pre cut key fob and am wondering if that's all I need to do. Is put the old key in, turn to tge "on" position then remove and do the same with my brand new key?
Any other advice would be greatly welcomed. I should get new key by Friday.

Craig

It IS that easy.

Put an old one in... then put the new one in... and you are done.

[Bell040]

Originally Posted by CamaroSkooter

And I'm curious how us non-locksmith's can buy anything from that American Key Supply website...

I should probably remove that link... I really just showed it because I thought that it was interesting to see one for ~$25.

[Cheetoh]

How did you open the Fob up the First time? I ordered a new fob, and can't get it open at all....I can get the Battery Cover off, but the rest of it is so tight, I can't get it apart.

[Catoptric]

They've started gluing the two halves together, and changing out the pattern of the metal push release button. I was still able to replace the facing of the fob, but it does look tampered with, and was a pain. The rest of the fob was complete scrap by the time I was done with it.

I would look into having the key pattern made instead of messing with swapping out parts.

[gahammerle]

The face of my fob has ripped so that the unlock button part is completely disconnected and falls out leaving a nice hole. Looks like the trunk button is getting ready to tear as well.

Is there any place that sells just the face of the fob?

[G10]

I just wanna give HUGE PROPS to Bell040. Although this wasn't as easy at this OP makes it sound. I worked through it.

I had 2 Fob that were both broken in a different way.

First one... had been slaughtered in the touch pad. The Trunk rubber button was completely gone.

Second one... The key blade had bent.

After going to the dealership and being offered the new key that you literally would just remove the blade from and continue to have to carry as a remote and then have a completely separate NON BLADE key linked to my key. FOR MY CAMARO??? Sorry son. Not gonna hapn.

SO... the solution for me was to COMBINE parts from each and end up with 1 perfectly functioning key and one key left in parts. This was an OK solution for me. Just really need one key. The other is a safety precaution.

I worked through the steps and finally got those bad boys cracked open.

Had to really pry the screwdriver into the cave the key opens up when SEMI-OPENED. It was probably not the best way but after have started to butcher the seam of the fob with my screwdriver I had to find a different leverage point.

I discovered after having them both open that there is a critical point at the NORTH END of the fob. There is a sort of dovetail join up top and if you don't SLIDE the two pieces spare at that point. You may break the fob. This happened and is part of the fob that remains now in pieces. No biggie. $40 bucks online and I'm back in biz w both.

Just wanted to share this episode. It was a great feeling having my functioning switchblade back in action. It flips quick and works PERRRRRRRRRRRRRFECT.

BIG UPS TO THIS THREAD FOR THE HELP. TOTALLY STOKED TO HAVE FOUND THIS.

[Bell040]

Originally Posted by G10

I just wanna give HUGE PROPS to Bell040. Although this wasn't as easy at this OP makes it sound. I worked through it.

I had 2 Fob that were both broken in a different way.

First one... had been slaughtered in the touch pad. The Trunk rubber button was completely gone.

Second one... The key blade had bent.

After going to the dealership and being offered the new key that you literally would just remove the blade from and continue to have to carry as a remote and then have a completely separate NON BLADE key linked to my key. FOR MY CAMARO??? Sorry son. Not gonna hapn.

SO... the solution for me was to COMBINE parts from each and end up with 1 perfectly functioning key and one key left in parts. This was an OK solution for me. Just really need one key. The other is a safety precaution.

I worked through the steps and finally got those bad boys cracked open.

Had to really pry the screwdriver into the cave the key opens up when SEMI-OPENED. It was probably not the best way but after have started to butcher the seam of the fob with my screwdriver I had to find a different leverage point.

I discovered after having them both open that there is a critical point at the NORTH END of the fob. There is a sort of dovetail join up top and if you don't SLIDE the two pieces spare at that point. You may break the fob. This happened and is part of the fob that remains now in pieces. No biggie. $40 bucks online and I'm back in biz w both.

Just wanted to share this episode. It was a great feeling having my functioning switchblade back in action. It flips quick and works PERRRRRRRRRRRRRFECT.

BIG UPS TO THIS THREAD FOR THE HELP. TOTALLY STOKED TO HAVE FOUND THIS.

Nice job!!!

[Bell040]

Before anyone does this DIY, please check and see if your key is covered under the safety recall !!! You get 2 keys cut and programmed for FREE !!

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363441

[bigdog96z]

but if you dont want to give up the switchblade action you will eventually need this write up...thanks for it anyway :-)

[sef6]

Has anyone tried removing the Chevy replacement key plastic hub, leaving just the metal key shaft. Then adapt the metal key shaft to fit the switchblade fob? The fob "switchblade" spring arm has a slot for accepting the key shaft. I was wondering if the existing replacement key shaft is adaptable to fit in that slot, making the key fob useful again.


Answered by myself: I did some test drilling through the rubber end of the "correct" key to see where the metal stopped, just to see an outline of the metal inside the black rubber. It looked good. I removed the rubber "handle" of the corrected key, got a nice clean piece of metal which is perfectly sculpted to sit inside the existing slot in the switchblade stub. An all-purpose glue, and I'm back to being cool. Have no fear. Do it.

Instead of plain glue, the metal key shaft has a groove across it's surface to align with a hole in the hub of the switchblade mechanism that the key shaft gets inserted into. It is important to fit the key into that hub in the correct direction: groove and hole aligned. Fig 4 illustrates the notched surface along one edge of the key shaft. Once the key is inserted, a piece of wire, a nail shaft (which I used but I don't know the exact weight of that nail) inserted through that hole in the hub, trimmed to the exact dimension of the width of that hub (no longer). The nail I used was a snug enough fit that I didn't need any glue to keep it in place. That metal/wire piece really secures that key in place. The photos below are in sequence, kind of, illustrating the points I felt important. The key points.

[Sitdown]

A post above mentioned glue possibly being used in later fobs holding the 2 parts together... Any accuracy to this, looking to pop open a 15 fob to transfer the board and trying to avoid destroying it in the process, thanks!

[hebytz]

HAs anybody just ordered the switchblades off eBay and had them recut? Any idea how much it is to have recut since you can program yourself? Picked up a used 2014 and it came with the recalled ones and I want blades.. lol

[insanity213]

Originally Posted by hebytz

HAs anybody just ordered the switchblades off eBay and had them recut? Any idea how much it is to have recut since you can program yourself? Picked up a used 2014 and it came with the recalled ones and I want blades.. lol

Yeah, I ordered a new blank switchblade off of ebay for like $20-$30 or so. Had a local smith cut it for $50 and programmed it myself by using the original key on/off new key on/off method. The smith cut me 10% off of the whole deal as I had keys done for my truck and wife's car at the same time. I think it might have been a buick blank or something as the back of the FOB just has an empty round circle where my originals have the bow tie.

[ron123]

Originally Posted by hebytz

HAs anybody just ordered the switchblades off eBay and had them recut? Any idea how much it is to have recut since you can program yourself? Picked up a used 2014 and it came with the recalled ones and I want blades.. lol

My new 2014 SS had the key recall already done. I brought in the two blade blanks bought from ebay to the Chevy dealer parts department and they cut the key blades and installed them in the original fobs - FREE - They had the little roll-pins to lock the blade in sitting next to the key machine that had been removed from other fobs ... so got the roll-pins for free as well. They even went out to the car and made sure both sets of fobs worked in the locks.
The key cutting machine is not a "Laser" as often mentioned, the dealer described it as working more like a router bit.

They can get the key code by running the VIN#, or is also listed on factory invoice, or can be trace/cloned off the original key ... However was told the last method of trace is the least accurate way. On mine they looked up my key code in Chevy computer using vin#. I also got to keep the original recall keys as spares ... now I have four keys to the car.

My knee never gets close to the steering wheel lock (manual transmission so keep seat set back for operating clutch); and told them I wouldn't hold them responsible for mishaps, ha ha. Great having the fob fully functional per original design.
Tops in customer service.
Ron