08-27-2013, 01:20 PM | #1 |
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non vvt centrifugal biased cam choices
Help from the community please, individuals and dealers alike.
This is for some personal cam choice research I'm doing...post up some cams and some dyno graphs for cams spec'd to work with centri blowers (non vvt cams). I don't want a NA cam posted up that 'works' with a centri. I want to see a cam built for this. Preferably I would also like some real world experience not just copy paste off the internet. I want to know the boost drop with the cam change as well.
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08-27-2013, 01:25 PM | #2 |
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My pat g spec'd centri cam is a 232/246 LXL LXL .650 .650 115+3. Works great.
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Nick
Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp |
08-27-2013, 02:58 PM | #3 |
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Unreal...thanks! The LS7 head flow+extra displacement would change the cam specs some...but good to know for sure.
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08-27-2013, 03:02 PM | #4 |
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Comp makes a specific grind for a centrifugal blower, you could always check that out.
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08-27-2013, 03:36 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2006 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010
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Agreed, cubes, heads, and what I wanted (good street cam) all will change grinds. That is a fairly mild setup that should still make 1000+.
I would just contact Pat G, Ed Curtis, Martin@Tick, Brian Tooley, Matt@FSP, etc and discuss what you want and they can spec you a good cam. Pat G, Arun@Champion both suggested the same cam/lobes. Only difference was +3 instead of +4 for ground in advance. Local shop in Utah that does a lot of high HP lsx builds also recommended the same lobes with a 116+4 so basically all the same cam just ground slightly different.
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Nick
Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp |
08-27-2013, 03:48 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
+1000 for Pat G. My cam is very similar to yours but .675/.652 lift and 116+4 on EHI/LXL lobes. He's gonna spec out a new one for a TT setup. http://www.guerragroup.com/#!camshaft-help/c1mq5
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Last edited by BullF-16; 08-27-2013 at 03:49 PM. Reason: sp |
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08-27-2013, 08:55 PM | #7 |
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What about ECS or A&A...they've been killin it in vettes.
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08-28-2013, 12:25 AM | #8 |
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Mine is 610/575 235/260 115+6. It helped make 1026rwhp with a Ysi. Speced by Martin at Tick.
My turbo cam was speced by CPR and it is a little bit bigger than the centri cam. |
08-28-2013, 08:46 AM | #9 |
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Just beware that all the cams mentioned above would be a little nasty for a stock cubic inch street car....especially with an A6. Stick to low 220's on the intake and add 10 to 12 degrees duration to the exhaust. 114 to 117 on the LSA. If you use the wider LSA, grind in a couple degrees of advance. You won't be leaving much hp on the table and your car will be very well behaved with a good tune. Shouldn't kill your highway mileage either.
Run your wants and needs past one of the cam guru's. Some spec some fairly wild stuff. Be sure and tell them EXACTLY what your setup is and what you want out of your car. Changing cams is expensive. Do it once. Do it right |
08-28-2013, 09:16 AM | #10 |
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old motorhead...yeah, that's what I was thinking. I'm looking at the options kicked in here and learning cam specs. I appreciate your info. From what I have learned thus far...its pretty much exactly what you said with duration and LSA range. The only thing I have seen variations of is lift. I'm seeing .580-.640s on lift...sometimes more intake lift, sometimes more exhaust lift. Trying to learn which way is right. I plan to keep it under 11psi so I can stay on 93 octane easily.
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08-28-2013, 09:46 AM | #11 |
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Lift is going to depend on lobe profile and how aggressive you want, and how much spring you want to run. Staying with a mild lift <.600 will allow a more mild spring with a longer life.
People need to understand the big cams aren't something you throw in and forget about like stock cams. I would check spring pressure every 20k or so and plan on replacing springs every 20-40k on a high lift aggressive setup.
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Nick
Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp |
08-28-2013, 02:06 PM | #12 |
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yeah...I know on valve train for high lift. I'm going with the BTR high end spring, retainers, etc. kit.
I only drive the car every now and then so mileage won't be the key for valvetrain check...more so will be time frame and making sure I turn it over every weekend so it doesn't sit on the same springs all the time.
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08-28-2013, 02:50 PM | #13 |
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If you are looking for the cam swap to really shine at the track, you won't focus so much on peak numbers but on the power curve. If you think about it, if your combo is set up to say shift at 7,000, you would want your average power in your power band to be high as as possible. So you'd want more power early but strong average power. So if you make 700rwhp at peak at 7000, you'd want to still be making like 6000rwhp wherever it drops on the shifts.
But you are also running less than a 4000 stall, so the shift drop will be pretty significant. Martin's cam sounds pretty sick, I'd be curious on that one myself. I've run a 236/246//113 split cam in the past with a YSI, the guy suggesting the cam wanted me to run even more exhaust duration.
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08-29-2013, 07:38 AM | #14 |
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John...thanks!
exactly...the power curve is what I'm after...it seems a lot of cam sales tactics are about a peak number...with a 'peaky' blower like a centri, I'd like 4-7 to be a nice smooth power band if possible...worst case 5-7k. I don't care as much about the dyno number...heck, my last time slip is quicker than many on this board with way more whp. It's about the time slip to me.
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