Z28 suspension kit instructions

[Level300]

Does anyone know were I can get a copy of the z28 suspension kit installation instructions? I want to see what I’m up against. The last time I worked on a suspension upgrade was installing a short arm kit on a Jeep Wrangler. I was younger then and it was brutal.

If you have any tips to share on the install, that would be awesome.

Thanks!

[Avenging Orange]

When things get that difficult....I defer to the professionals.

[Level300]

Originally Posted by Avenging Orange

When things get that difficult....I defer to the professionals.

I hear ya man. Putting my headers in was backbreaking and the next day, I felt like I had played a game of rough touch football.

This and a cam swap will be the last mods that I plan on installing myself. I will have accomplished everything I wanted to do that I couldn’t do when I was younger (couldn’t afford it).

[olblue75]

Make sure you have a good impact electric or pneumatic, a good jack an stands, maybe a roll around stool an plan for a full weekend and take your time. Good thing is you won’t have to replace and control arms in the rear since the 1LE an Z28 share the same arms, not sure if your going to be doing the Rear Upper Control Arm bushings but you have to drop the cradle a few inches (you’ll have to remove the upper arm to replace). I used a motorcycle lift to help lower and raise my cradle for the bushings. The front should just be a standard strut swap few hours at best.

[Level300]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Make sure you have a good impact electric or pneumatic, a good jack an stands, maybe a roll around stool an plan for a full weekend and take your time. Good thing is you won’t have to replace and control arms in the rear since the 1LE an Z28 share the same arms, not sure if your going to be doing the Rear Upper Control Arm bushings but you have to drop the cradle a few inches (you’ll have to remove the upper arm to replace). I used a motorcycle lift to help lower and raise my cradle for the bushings. The front should just be a standard strut swap few hours at best.

Thanks. This is good to know. I’m replacing the cradle bushings at the same time so that’s nice. Were the instructions any good?

[Level300]

Anyone happen to have a part numbers list of the TTY bolts needed? They should have at least included a part number list in the instructions. I have about $120 worth of nuts and bolts in my cart and I’m not sure I got them all.

[olblue75]

I reused everything and have 2 track days without issue just used a little blue loctite.

[Level300]

Originally Posted by olblue75

I reused everything and have 2 track days without issue just used a little blue loctite.

Thanks. I though of doing that at first but knowing my luck, some bolt will let go and cost me thousands of dollars in damage.

[cdb95z28]

I have the GM service manual, and just because they are calling out a torque plus angle tightening method does not mean the bolt is a TTY. In fact GM does not say to replace all bolts. On the suspension components, they call out replacing (but not always??) the lock nut, which I've reused. On my tracked 1LE. For 5 years. They are covering their ass.

The only place I use threadlocker, Permatex #27200 (high temp/high strength) is on the caliper to knuckle bots. GM does say to replace the caliper to knuckle bolts but I'd go broke replacing them. I do not tighten to the GM spec, which if they are an actual TTY bolt it is possible this is the point of yield. The yield point is the point at which a bolt stretches but will not return to its original length. GM may not be yielding the bolt, they may just be spec'ing it to the point right before it permanently stretches. A stretched bolt does a better job at not loosening. A bolt that is stretched to far will not return to its original length, compromising it's integrity.

So I bought new caliper bolts and did not tighten to the yield point (GM's spec). So they've never yielded (permanently stretched)and they won't loosen because I use high temp/high strength threadlocker. I paint stick them and lay eyes on them before every track day. I have never had a problem. Why does GM say replace? Maybe they actually do reach the yield point or they are again covering their asses. But how many caliper bolts are replaced during brake jobs. Not many.


What I'm getting at is you do not need to replace the suspension bolts every time you loosen. GM says replace the nut, but I don't think it's necessary. Torque them to spec, paint stick them and look at them regularly if you track or auto cross. Or have bad roads.

As for the torque specs, your 1LE specs are the same as the Z/28 suspension specs. I've done the entire Z/28 suspension kit, pieced together over a couple years. The GM service manual is worth the price.

[cdb95z28]

Well, I just checked ebay, lol, the actual paper service manual is going for quite alot more than what i paid for mine in 2014. $500+

But there are a few pdf files of it you can buy and also DVD's of it for cheap.
Those would be worth getting for all the info GM ever wanted you to know about your car.

[hesster]

In this link is a comprehensive build instruction including front and rear suspension. I "assume" most if not all of it applies to a 2015 (mine is a 2010). The whole TTY arguments are endless, but my take is spend the money for peace of mind, as the "Yield" in TTY means exactly that - the bolt has been stretched.
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=442230

[Level300]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Well, I just checked ebay, lol, the actual paper service manual is going for quite alot more than what i paid for mine in 2014. $500+

But there are a few pdf files of it you can buy and also DVD's of it for cheap.
Those would be worth getting for all the info GM ever wanted you to know about your car.

Yeah, I looked into the factory service manual. It is pricey. They are worth their weight in gold. I found and use alldatadiy.com. It looks like it uses the factory service manual. All torque specs seem to be inline with What everyone suggests and better yet, it matches the suspension kit instructions from GM right down to the graphic. It’s comprehensive. It even has the troubleshooting instructions and tsbs for the mechanic. It has everything.

[Level300]

Originally Posted by hesster

In this link is a comprehensive build instruction including front and rear suspension. I "assume" most if not all of it applies to a 2015 (mine is a 2010). The whole TTY arguments are endless, but my take is spend the money for peace of mind, as the "Yield" in TTY means exactly that - the bolt has been stretched.
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=442230

Thanks hesster. What a write up! You must be an engineer or programmer lol.

Yeah, Maybe in my younger days I would skip replacing bolts. But I’m older and have more to lose now. I’m sure there is a safety margin designed into those bolts so people that reuse bolts should have no issues. But like you, I would worry. In the whole scheme of things the cost is negligible.

Thanks again for the write-up.