07-15-2011, 06:58 PM | #57 |
Drives: 2011 Black 1LT RS Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 496
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OK, that makes sense. I just wasn't sure if there was something specific that I was missing.
So do you cut a hole in the filter to run the nitrous? What would be the lowest rpm that a small (50 Max) can be triggered safely? Does the size of the shot affect how soon you can start spraying?
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Midnight => 2011 1LT/RS, A6, Roto-Fab CAI & W/W Relocate, MPD Hood, 25%/18% Carbon Tint
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07-19-2011, 12:59 PM | #58 | |
Drives: Pontiac Firebird Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 154
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Quote:
I would say around 2800rpm's. Not too much, but if it was say 250+ I would generally lean toward safety and activate it higher. |
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07-19-2011, 10:42 PM | #59 |
Drives: 2011 Black 1LT RS Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 496
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OK, It looks like nitrous is the simplest way to go. But it requires a minimum of 2,800 RPM. I spend most of my daily drive closer to 1,800 to 2,000 and the "bog" seems to be when you first tap the throttle. The only solution now is to slam the throttle and have it downshift and slam the RPMs from 1,900 to 3,500 or so and run.
In cooler weather, I can press the throttle gradually and have the car just start smoothly and strongly pick up speed. I don't like having to slam the throttle that hard for simple driving when it's so hot outside. SC2150's chiller would fix this, but I was hoping for a simpler solution for just a simple temperature problem. All that extra piping attached to the A/C scares me while I'm still under warranty. I don't think I could pop that off to avoid a dealership auto-void.
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Midnight => 2011 1LT/RS, A6, Roto-Fab CAI & W/W Relocate, MPD Hood, 25%/18% Carbon Tint
See my build journal here. |
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