Redline or Amsoil 5W-30?

[ST1LE]

Originally Posted by SteveV

My Walmart comment had less to do with Pennzoil, and more to do with Walmart.

There have been known instances of Walmart stocking lower quality versions of brand name items than you can get at other stores. Like their Fram E filters and such. This is why I get my automotive products at automotive stores.

+1!!

[Camaro Dude]

Call my recommendation a whack job, use the Redline if you want to TRY to blow up your engine by running it real real hard on a road course, etc.

(In case anyone didn't understand that, I was being sarcastic, it ain't happening . )

....and use the Amsoil SS for all else.

PS
Switched out the Walmart Mobil 1, and back to Amsoil SS, after a bout of stinginess on my behalf, and possibly a lesson learned, but that's an other story.

[Andy-AMSOIL]

Is there anyone posting Oil analysis on the forums ?

[11WRXMAN]

I would say Amsoil.

[Kendall421]

Gonna stay with Mobil 1 in mine for now. All these synthetic oils will do fine, it truly is splitting hairs. Change it regularly, new filter each time. I have run cars 250,000 miles on crude oil and the wheels fell off before the motor had any lower end issues. I raced high compression 765hp race motors for 17 years and never broke a lower end...on crude oil (but it was changed every race weekend).

[Mark T]

It will be Amsoil for me when I get to break in mileage.

My mechanic, which I wholly trust, highly recommends it.
(yes I said "trust", if you got to know him, you would too)

[L99CAMA2011]

Used Amsoil 5w30 Sig Series, regular Amsoil 5w30, Motul 8100 and Redline oil. Of all the Redline is never going into my engine again. Put in 8 quarts and after 3800 miles pulled out 5 quarts. Never had I seen this in my 60000 miles. I like the Motul 8100 best since it really keeps the engine quiet and feels like it protects better than the others. Put in 8 quarts of Motul and drained out just under 8 quarts. For track use I love Amsoil Dominator. Remove your cats, install Dominator and enjoy the extra torque.

[Kendall421]

Where would 3 quarts of oil go with one type and none with another type? That makes no sense to me. Oil has to leave via a leak or burn in the cylinder (where it should not be). If the car burned 3 qts of oil it would have shown in the exhaust and blackened the plugs. Also curious how you "feel like it protects better." What does that feel like? LOL.

Not trying to be an ass, but curious where people come up with these theories. Run a decent oil and change regularly. One can't disappear from your motor at that much faster rate than another. Sounds like a Motul dealer talking. LOL

Originally Posted by L99CAMA2011

Used Amsoil 5w30 Sig Series, regular Amsoil 5w30, Motul 8100 and Redline oil. Of all the Redline is never going into my engine again. Put in 8 quarts and after 3800 miles pulled out 5 quarts. Never had I seen this in my 60000 miles. I like the Motul 8100 best since it really keeps the engine quiet and feels like it protects better than the others. Put in 8 quarts of Motul and drained out just under 8 quarts. For track use I love Amsoil Dominator. Remove your cats, install Dominator and enjoy the extra torque.

[Camaro Dude]

^^^^^^ Maybe he meant, that the Group V ester of the Redline might very well be too slippery for his particular application, and thus was burning oil.....

Thinking out loud here (cigarette)

[toehead93]

Originally Posted by Kendall421

Where would 3 quarts of oil go with one type and none with another type? That makes no sense to me. Oil has to leave via a leak or burn in the cylinder (where it should not be). If the car burned 3 qts of oil it would have shown in the exhaust and blackened the plugs. Also curious how you "feel like it protects better." What does that feel like? LOL.

Not trying to be an ass, but curious where people come up with these theories. Run a decent oil and change regularly. One can't disappear from your motor at that much faster rate than another. Sounds like a Motul dealer talking. LOL

Your oil is connected to the air intake so if crap oil vaprizes it will be sucked out as a gas into the intake and combusted with gas and air. I am no expert but this makes sense to me. Even great oil gets sucked un in liquid format which is why there are oil separators which are very popular on this board.

The guy you quoted said he puts 8 quarts in and gets 8 quarts back plus the engine is quieter, those two things make him feel more confident than other oils he has tried. He may also look at the oil quality when he drains to compare.

When Mobil1 came out it was a true synthetic and more advanced than the competition. The the competition started making blends and calling them synthetics as well so mobil sued them and lost so they converted to a blend as well and to my knowledge it still is a blend. I would use amsoil or royal purple, heard good things about some of the penzoiol brands too.

[Camaro Dude]

Originally Posted by toehead93

Your oil is connected to the air intake so if crap oil vaprizes it will be sucked out as a gas into the intake and combusted with gas and air. I am no expert but this makes sense to me. Even great oil gets sucked un in liquid format which is why there are oil separators which are very popular on this board.

The guy you quoted said he puts 8 quarts in and gets 8 quarts back plus the engine is quieter, those two things make him feel more confident than other oils he has tried. He may also look at the oil quality when he drains to compare.

.......and then there is the valley cover issue, throw that it in the mix for good measure, but that is an other story.

[Kendall421]

I still don't believe a motor can loose 3 quarts of oil on one oil and not lose a drop on another oil. That is virtually impossible from a mechanical aspect. I have built race motors and understand engines very well. Even an eye dropper or oil dropped into the cylinder will cause a large amount of smoke out the exhaust. And if you think 3 quarts vaporized and were sucked into the motor...that is insane too. I would more think he forgot to put 3 quarts in when he filled it up! LOL Five courts went in and 5 came out.

I am not saying one is superior over any other. I have always run crude in all my cars, including all my race engines. I run Mobil 1 in my Duramax because it is required being a Turbo Diesel and I am always towing my race trailers with it...heavy use!

There are just so many opinions...but no engineering data. I am an engineering consultant by trade and need to see engineering data to make a decision, not just "it feels like it protects better".

I ran Royal Purple, Amsoil, and Mobil 1 in our Midget racing motors and noticed not difference. Will one work better than another in the Camaro engine? Maybe. Is pure synthetic really better than a blend if you change it every 3K-5K miles (which I will be doing no matter what!) Maybe? Maybe not? I want to see some data. As I said, never blew a race motor on crude oil running 8000RPM's in a 765HP 14:1 compression small block or any of my street cars that went 250,000 miles.

For my first 1LE oil change I am putting Mobil1 back in it. If someone can give me real data to show a gain from Amsoil, I will be the first to use it on my next oil change.

[Camaro Dude]

The good ol days of nice data on oil analysis , group V vs Group lll, and lV was being reported on a couple of the BMW forums, going even as far back as Roadfly. 2 decades later, AT LEAST the pro crude oil camp is finally dead, but it took a while, lol.

I doubt you will find modern up to date evidence via hard facts and data sheets on this forum, but you may still find interesting data in the bobistheoilguy forum. It may take an hour or two to sift some regurgitated data, but there are indeed some comparisons on wear and sheer data, on certain applications.

To the OP, for me(and this doesn't mean it's good for you) it's Group V if road racing all day and turbo'd, group lV with a good additive package for almost all else given my driving style and application needs in a generalized 1 liner.

For others, Group lll will suffice.
Hell, a dude in a K car, using $2 a bottle mineral oil, replacing it every 3000km, of gentle driving, will reach 400000km easily with no valve-train rebuild. Ask_me_how_i Know.

Thank God we have choices.

[Kendall421]

That's some funny shit right there dude!

OK, so at the end of the day, run a decent synthetic or blend, change it regularly with filter, and you will be fine. That's all I wanted to hear! I will run Mobil 1 because that is what GM recommends. Just a lot of people saying you should run Amsoil or brand F or whatever...I just want someone who insists this one or that one is better to give me a scientific reason for why they feel that way. I am not going to search for data, I will just run Mobil 1 and be fine. But if someone presents data to show me why another is a better choice, I will be the first to switch.

Good dialog!

BTW...I still run crude 10W30 in my Traverse, Trail Blazer, and Enclave. I change it every 3000-5000 miles and things are good. I am almost 50...old school and do the work myself. Will keep running the crude and change it often in these low performance motors, they will live 300K plus.

Originally Posted by Camaro Dude

The good ol days of nice data on oil analysis , group V vs Group lll, and lV was being reported on a couple of the BMW forums, going even as far back as Roadfly. 2 decades later, AT LEAST the pro crude oil camp is finally dead, but it took a while, lol.

I doubt you will find modern up to date evidence via hard facts and data sheets on this forum, but you may still find interesting data in the bobistheoilguy forum. It may take an hour or two to sift some regurgitated data, but there are indeed some comparisons on wear and sheer data, on certain applications.

To the OP, for me(and this doesn't mean it's good for you) it's Group V if road racing all day and turbo'd, group lV with a good additive package for almost all else given my driving style and application needs in a generalized 1 liner.

For others, Group lll will suffice.
Hell, a dude in a K car, using $2 a bottle mineral oil, replacing it every 3000km, of gentle driving, will reach 400000km easily with no valve-train rebuild. Ask_me_how_i Know.

Thank God we have choices.