High level vs. Low level Ouput from HU, the X3, & wiring confusion?

[jeepguy_1980]

You should look at KnuKonceptz for your wiring. It's pretty good stuff and definitely better than Streetwires or Stinger.

[CamaroFTW]

Thanks for the input. Looks like nice stuff. Do you know if 5 meters is long enough to reach from HU to 360 in trunk?

Like this one?

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=eKs-R5

Also these look much nicer then the ones I found for the front and rear speakers but I was planning to use 14 AWG wire. What do you think?

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=FD1263R

[jeepguy_1980]

I would recommend 6m, but depending where in the trunk you are going, 5m might be enough.

As for the terminal connectors, I think those are the same ones that came with my amp kit, and they worked with my 14gauge wire.

[CamaroFTW]

Your kit says you got 12 gauge speaker wire. So is it wise to go that big?

For the remote power I can grab that off the trunk are by the stock amp since it follows the wiring down from the Scosche right? And can I just chain all the amps from there?

[jeepguy_1980]

Originally Posted by CamaroFTW

Your kit says you got 12 gauge speaker wire. So is it wise to go that big?

For the remote power I can grab that off the trunk are by the stock amp since it follows the wiring down from the Scosche right? And can I just chain all the amps from there?

I didn't use the 12 gauge wire that it came with. That stuff was huge. I actually used 60' of this stuff, which was barely enough for 4 speakers. I used 8' of this for my sub. I liked the blue wire better and would probably have used just that if I had tried both up front.

Yes, you can use the stock remote amp line.

[CamaroFTW]

Your linkies dont work

[jeepguy_1980]

Try again

[CamaroFTW]

Thank you! Man those are some GREAT prices there and product looks very high quality!
I can get alot there although the don't sell circuit breakers or non-fused distribution blocks...too bad.

[jeepguy_1980]

Originally Posted by CamaroFTW

Thank you! Man those are some GREAT prices there and product looks very high quality!
I can get alot there although the don't sell circuit breakers or non-fused distribution blocks...too bad.

I think the only sub-par product I got from them was my in-line fuse holder. I felt that it was a little flimsy. I still haven't replaced it yet, or had any problems with it. I just don't care for it.

The rest of their stuff is really nice and looks great. My other complaint is that it is made in China.

[CamaroFTW]

Most everything electronic is made in China. Does not mean it is bad. They have varying levels of quality like anyone and you get what you pay for. We import very high end water cooling parts from China and no problems. Of course you can buy cheap junk too.

Now all I need to figure out is the RCA's from the 360 to the amps..need 4 sets...not sure where I am laying out exactly but they should be right next to the 360. So I would think 2 sets at 1/2 meter and 2 at 1 meter would be fine, right? And they did you read my question about how to split the 360 sub out to two subs? What you think?

[jeepguy_1980]

I wasn't implying anything bad about the quality by saying the wires are from China. I just meant that you're supporting that system, economically. Yes, like everything else, and I'm not trying to start a debate here.

As for the y-adapter to split. I would not recommend that. You should be able to assign more than one output on the 3sixty.3 as a sub output. If you're using all of the outputs, then the pass through would be the next best option. The Y-adapter would be my last choice.

[CamaroFTW]

Hey no problem I know it was not meant to start a debate and I wish we could make stuff in the us for a reasonable price but that sadly can't happen for most things due to the labor rate here. Anyway, I have appreciated all your input.

I have no outputs left on the 360 and so I guess I have to read up on how to use the pass-through to where it splits the sub input to the 2 amps. Thanks

[darkrider01]

Originally Posted by CamaroFTW

Hey Darkrider01 if you have a few minutes can you look at my install parts list and see if I have everything I
need and if the parts are all correct and if I ordered either enough or too much of any wires or cables?
I will have very similar setup to what you have above except that I will have 2 x 12" RE Audio 1000 W subs and
each will have its own Rockford 1000 Watt amp like the one you have. Also my 4-channel will be the TD 1000 instead of the
TD800 you have. Also a few questions:

1. I am unsure of proper way to Y out the output from the 360 to the 2 sub amps?? Do I use 2 x RCA Male to 2 females
and then run the 2 RCA to the 2 subs? I am confused because all the Y's have red and black and I am really splitting
left and right. So just ignore that? Or can I run to one sub amp and then use the pass-through to the second sub amp?
Can you do this and use the switches on then to share the incoming signal??

2. Do I need a better battery post? I dont thing so with the ring posts but figure I would ask.

3. You have no circuit breakers to the 2 and 4 channel amps. Unnecessary?

4. The blue remote amp wire...do I need to run a wire to each amp or can this also be daisey chained from 1?

5. Where the heck you putting everything! lol. Do you have a diagram of that? I was thinking of mounting on a board
in the trunk and then have a windowed custom box build around all this. What are you doing?

Here is list:



Thanks in advance!

Sorry that I'm just now getting to this. Had a Migraine yesterday, so that made today yard work day. Anyway, aside from the good advice that jeepguy has given, here goes:

1. No need for Y-adapters. Run your right sub output from the 3Sixty.3 to the left input of one T1000-1bdCP, and the left sub output to the left input of other T1000-1bdCP. The amps will run full power with a mono input. The other way to do it would be run a mono-sub output from the 3Sixty.3 and then run it to the left input (the mono input) of both amps. If you're not following me, let me know and I'll draw another terrible diagram.

2. Those Tsunami terminals are what I have and they are as good as any I have ever used. They use allen style set screws and are very strong. As good as the RF branded stuff I have.

3. Never a bad idea. I will have them all protected when I'm done.

4. It can be daisy chained, no problem.

5. Still have no clue....lol. Probably mounting it all up this coming weekend - doubtful I'll have anything permanent until next spring.

[CamaroFTW]

Sorry you had a migraine darkrider01..hope you are feeling better. Thank you too for your input! It all makes sense on the sub amps!
Couple more q's:

1. Is a 250 Amp circuit breaker right for the battery side? I think I computed 280 amps on 3400 total watts. But should be ok, right?

2. Will you be using the Rockford Fosgate PEQX3 for your amps. Think it is necessary? Seems this is a 0-18 Bass Boost. Also would you get this and put in line from the HU to the360 to turn down bass when it is too high for a particular song? EFX RLC by Scosche Universal Bass Remote Level Control Knob
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...y-Scosche.html

3. Why do you have a 4 channel amp just for your tweeters? I was only going to get a T400-2. Is it because you are only using 1/2 ir 200 watts?

4. I am going to be running HAT Clarus for front and rears. I checked and the tweeters are only 20 Watt max. So why do we need a 400 watt amp? To run active do we need to put anything else in line from the speaker wire to the tweets to protect them from blowing?

5. Maybe I only need the T-800 like you for the front mids and rears. Maybe 1000W is overkill and unnecessary and can only help blow the speakers. See these specs and see if maybe 800 is better:

Fronts: Clarus C61-2
Continuous 120 watts
Peak 250 watts
Recommended 25-175 watts
Pnom Input (No crossover) 60 watts
Pmax Input (No crossover) 120 watts

Rears: Imagine I69-2
Continuous 100 watts
Peak 230 watts
Recommended 20-150 watts