First Drag Suspension Mods For A6....

[2010SSRSM6]

Originally Posted by Mydivorcegift

Love the discussion and pics. Thanks for all of these replies.

Was looking at the trailing arms and toe rods.

What is the difference in the 3 and is one better suited for drag racing purposes?

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...d=77&catid=227

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...d=77&catid=226

Are you lowered? Are you going to try to get 17" rims on the rear? These are questions you will need to answer before you pick your setup.

The different bushings and bearings can change the amount of vibration/noise you feel/hear from the rear end. The stiffer the bushing, the more likely you are to get both, but they will hold the arms in place better.

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by Mydivorcegift

Love the discussion and pics. Thanks for all of these replies.

Was looking at the trailing arms and toe rods.

What is the difference in the 3 and is one better suited for drag racing purposes?

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...d=77&catid=227

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...d=77&catid=226

Here's a good comparison write-up I did on the Toe Rods....

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=365127

I plan on doing the same for the Trailing Arms as soon as I can get my hands on a set of TCA027's to take a pictures of.

Without a doubt, the spherical bearings or rod ends will perform better than the poly bushings at the drag strip. But they also transmit more NVH than the poly bushings too. So, you need to make a conscious decision of what is more important to you....a quiet ride or all-out performance. I have the spherical bearings all over the back of my car, and I do street drive it 95% of the time. Yes, they can be a bit noisy and/or "clanky" at times, but they perform flawlessly....as long as they are maintained properly. NVH is very subjective to the user, some people are more sensitive to it than others. In my own case, it doesn't bother me.

[Mydivorcegift]

Originally Posted by 2010SSRSM6

Are you lowered? Are you going to try to get 17" rims on the rear? These are questions you will need to answer before you pick your setup.

The different bushings and bearings can change the amount of vibration/noise you feel/hear from the rear end. The stiffer the bushing, the more likely you are to get both, but they will hold the arms in place better.

No I am not lowered nor do I plan to be.

Yes I will be going for the 17" weld setup....

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

Here's a good comparison write-up I did on the Toe Rods....

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=365127

I plan on doing the same for the Trailing Arms as soon as I can get my hands on a set of TCA027's to take a pictures of.

Without a doubt, the spherical bearings or rod ends will perform better than the poly bushings at the drag strip. But they also transmit more NVH than the poly bushings too. So, you need to make a conscious decision of what is more important to you....a quiet ride or all-out performance. I have the spherical bearings all over the back of my car, and I do street drive it 95% of the time. Yes, they can be a bit noisy and/or "clanky" at times, but they perform flawlessly....as long as they are maintained properly. NVH is very subjective to the user, some people are more sensitive to it than others. In my own case, it doesn't bother me.

After reading I don't think I want the up keep described for the spherical bearing ends.

How long does install take of the toe rods and trailing arms...for someone with experience doing so?

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by Mydivorcegift

After reading I don't think I want the up keep described for the spherical bearing ends.

How long does install take of the toe rods and trailing arms...for someone with experience doing so?

They're pretty easy, I'd say probably an hour or two at most. You will need an alignment after you're done since the inner connection on the toe rod is an eccentric bolt.

[Mydivorcegift]

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

They're pretty easy, I'd say probably an hour or two at most. You will need an alignment after you're done since the inner connection on the toe rod is an eccentric bolt.

Thanks. What about the cradle bushings?

[2010SSRSM6]

Originally Posted by Mydivorcegift

No I am not lowered nor do I plan to be.



Yes I will be going for the 17" weld setup....







After reading I don't think I want the up keep described for the spherical bearing ends.



How long does install take of the toe rods and trailing arms...for someone with experience doing so?

You shouldn't have an issue then. Lowered cars have to use the round arms and even then some people still have to grind them for clearance issues.

A buddy is having issues with his coil overs (KWv3's) where the res is hitting the inside of his rim. Major pain.


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[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by Mydivorcegift

Thanks. What about the cradle bushings?

Cradle Bushings are another story....much more labor intensive. Traditionally, you have to drop the entire rear cradle out of the car, and cut through the OEM bushings with a sawzall in order to get them out. Or, I have heard of a few guys just lowering the cradle a couple inches and putting a big socket between the OEM bushing and the body of the car, and then heating up the cradle pockets with a propane torch. Once hot, jack the cradle back up against the car with the socket in position. Supposedly, the heat will loosen the adhesive holding the OEM bushings in place, and they will push out. I haven't tried this method myself, but it sounds like it should work pretty good....in theory!

[Rhino79]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

Thanks for sharing, really interesting to see your car work in those pics. I've seen pics of Ronnie Hackleton's car and his car squats like crazy too, more than I'm used to. I guess I need to re-shape my thinking on that.

Viking or QA1 released adjustable shocks for the front yet?

Ronnie Hackelton is sporting Santhuffs coilovers front and rear. Shahan did a good job dialing that suspension in. I think it'd hook on a gravel road.